Rear inner hub seal on M931A1

[Floridianson]

Bearing then something in the key way then outer seal. Cork or something in the key way. I don't like silly cone and have had good luck with a piece of those blue paper shop towels from the auto parts place. I tear off a piece and using a flat blade screw driver cramp it in the key way till the cavity under the bearing is full and out to end of the bearing. If a little hangs out the tab on the seal will push it tight.

 

[Bandit02]

I go by what Timken/StemCo recommend for their wet hub setups.

1. Torque inner nut while spinning the hub to 200 ft/lbs
2. Back off a full turn
3. Torque inner nut to 50 ft/lbs
4. Back off 1/4 turn and install locking components
5. Torque outer nut to 250 ft/lbs

 

[Aruba1]

Got the hub off, the innet seal collapsed. About to finisg cleaning everything up and put her back on. While outside I also added a block heater, I am ready for Snowpocalypse.

 

[Aruba1]

Added about 1 gallon of fluid (we used 90W) and took it for a spin. She did just fine although we had a lot of bouncing from 53-56 mph, above them seemed fine. Oops, should I've said that? Anyways, I took some low quality videos (sorry) driving back home.

https://youtu.be/eZsK9uvymUI
https://youtu.be/VXScyrSeB-w

 

[Floridianson]

Yea the 1/4 back off seems to be the norm for big axles other than putting a Dial indecator on them. As said they don't run that outer seal that we do so I have had no problems with backing off only 1/8 turn.
Glad your up and running. When all else fails Google and trust the force.

 

[adamsoffroadperformance]

Aside from the speeding sins some of us make my M931A2 will bury the speedo and drives great over 60mph and the occasional bridge expansion joint can give the back nice bounce. lol