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rear load brake valve

mtjbrown

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Cohutta, GA
Hey, has anybody ditched the brake valve attached to the rear axle?? I am running the 3" banks exhaust and its smack dab in the way!!!:evil: Any drawbacks to getting rid of it or thoughts are welcome.

Mark
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
If you ditch it without changing more, I bet you will have trouble. If you get an after market valve for under the motor you could probably "dial it in", little trial and error....how bad do you want rid of it...
 

mtjbrown

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Cohutta, GA
I was really just trying to find out any adverse effects from tossing it. I think I can re-work the bend of the exhaust as it goes over the rear axle to make it work, I just hate to cut up a 3" exhaust thats supposed to fit the truck. :confused:
 

dstang97

Well-known member
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Clover, SC
how is that exhaust working out for you? when I mocked up mine it seemed to hang real low. I think you will be fine if you bypass it.
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
I was a shop manager for 10 years before I went in to the Army and we removed dozens of the rear brake valves on 1 ton trucks and vans over the years with 0 problems. Just when you remove it make sure to bleed all the air and adjust the rear brakes a tad loose. other then that your good to roll.
 

mtjbrown

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how is that exhaust working out for you? when I mocked up mine it seemed to hang real low. I think you will be fine if you bypass it.

I finished it up today. Had to cut the pipes in two places and change the angle of the bends to make it work with the rear valve. I decided to leave it alone for now and ditch it later if it gives me trouble. The only thing that I didn't like that hung down was that big honking muffler. I sell big trucks parts and it looked like it belonged on one of them instead of a pickup!!!:shock:
I'll try to get some pics posted up tomorrow.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
1,859
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Location
Clover, SC
I finished it up today. Had to cut the pipes in two places and change the angle of the bends to make it work with the rear valve. I decided to leave it alone for now and ditch it later if it gives me trouble. The only thing that I didn't like that hung down was that big honking muffler. I sell big trucks parts and it looked like it belonged on one of them instead of a pickup!!!:shock:
I'll try to get some pics posted up tomorrow.
How did it clear the 205? I'm gonna straight pipe it so ill have to customize it. right now i just have the down pipe.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
1,859
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Location
Clover, SC
Did your exhaust hit the frame in any spots. Mine hits right at the firewall and right on the side of my np208. Got anymore picts of the truck?
 
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mtjbrown

New member
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Location
Cohutta, GA
The clamp on the downpipe junction touches the frame, very tight right there. Heck to get a wrench on, thank God for ratceting wrenches!!! Doesn't touch the 205, about an inch away. :D
 

bigburb11

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Location
Detroit, MI
I was told by several people that the valve could just be ditched... but I was skeptical, so I took the linkage off the rear diff and it in the 100% bed loaded position (figured that was 100% pressure) for a test... WAY TOO MUCH REAR BRAKES. Dangerous.

That was the case for my M1028... others have stated no problems.

Anyway, I replaced it with a cheapo summit manual prop valve, and through trial and error testing, I ended with it all the way turned down (60% pressure to rear).
 

doodaa

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Location
ashaway RI
this is somewhat in the thread...I just put disc brakes behind my m1010 and it has the weight valvel and not sure what to do with it.is it neccassary with disc drakes?
 

jbolty

Member
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6
Location
San Diego, CA
I have been thinking ditching my valve as well. The way I understand it is the valve is meant to increase the braking to the rear as the load goes up. The problem I have is that I often tow my jeep and even though it weighs ~3500 lbs there is no tongue weight, so the braking sucks. The fronts do most of the work in any normal brake system but mine are doing ALL the work now.
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
I dont believe it's necassary with rear disc brakes. I just did discs on my truck....the 1/2 ton chevy truck prop valve is perfect, loaded or not. Instead of using a dana 44 caliper I used calipers off of a 87 3/4 ton suburban 2wd HD. Bigger piston, works perfect. I'm sure the truck stops better now than with 100 miles on the odometer. their stopping 150 pound 38" tires/wheels too. BTW, most chevy 3/4 ton calipers are the same dimensions between the caliper bracket so it was easier for me to change calipers than buy a new prop valve and dial it all in. If you need more stop, put calipers on with a bigger piston and so on.2cents
 

4bogginchevys

New member
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Location
rathdrum idaho
80.00 more than I spent, doesn't seem worth it. The rear load brake valve is plain and simple not required for good brake operation as long as you go to disc....easier to maintain too2cents
 

davo727

Member
742
2
18
Location
Cleveland, TX , Spring , TX
If the unloaded truck with drum brakes needs the valve to reduce pressure to prevent early rear lockup and now with your discs you say you dont need it- do you have less braking power now with rear discs?

Im going to go to discs also and figure on putting in the adj valve to allow 100% when im loaded down and be able to ease pressure down if empty.





80.00 more than I spent, doesn't seem worth it. The rear load brake valve is plain and simple not required for good brake operation as long as you go to disc....easier to maintain too2cents
 

allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
Why if you chose to remove the valve is not an issue with rear disc and an issue with the drums?

If you increased the lift of your vehicle that will certainly trow OFF the cargo valve.
As it will measure no cargo weight and you will have next to no rear brakes. I went true this after my lift kit. I took it to DMV and the rear brakes where hardly working, less then 10%.

I liked the way the properly functioning brakes worked during panic stop, "Hard & straight" before the lift so after the lift, I decided to ad some brackets to compensate for the suspension lift increase.
some time later unbeknown to me one of the bracket broke off and my brakes acted weird until I realize the bracket was missing.
 

4bogginchevys

New member
623
1
0
Location
rathdrum idaho
If the unloaded truck with drum brakes needs the valve to reduce pressure to prevent early rear lockup and now with your discs you say you dont need it- do you have less braking power now with rear discs?

Im going to go to discs also and figure on putting in the adj valve to allow 100% when im loaded down and be able to ease pressure down if empty.
Why if you chose to remove the valve is not an issue with rear disc and an issue with the drums?

If you increased the lift of your vehicle that will certainly trow OFF the cargo valve.
As it will measure no cargo weight and you will have next to no rear brakes. I went true this after my lift kit. I took it to DMV and the rear brakes where hardly working, less then 10%.

I liked the way the properly functioning brakes worked during panic stop, "Hard & straight" before the lift so after the lift, I decided to ad some brackets to compensate for the suspension lift increase.
some time later unbeknown to me one of the bracket broke off and my brakes acted weird until I realize the bracket was missing.

The only thing that has changed is the prop valve....1/2 ton chevy for disc. The stock one must give too much line pressure to the rear or something. I wish I could say more, I just got lucky with a combo that my buddy suggested, and I had the parts laying around. I do not have a cargo valve, and it woks great.
 
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