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Rear main seal

fpchief

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Yea the tm's usually do the truck for me, but sometimes I just have to ask for some clarification. As with those little blocks.
 

fpchief

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I can not put the blocks under the fingers. They will not move. Just take out half the bolts then the rest? Any dangers I need to be aware of? This thing is right in my face as I am sitting where transmission should be.
 

fpchief

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I think I just figured the blocks out. you don't push them in, you put the blocks in and keeps fingers in while loosening bolts. Still, any dangers with it at all?
uploadfromtaptalk1454251782460.jpg
 

Recovry4x4

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If you use a small piece of hardwood, just make it to where is just fits in place. Once you start unbolting the pressure plate, the spring pressure will lock the wood blocks in place.

Edit; looks like you got it!
 

fpchief

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Flywheel removal

Is there any tricks to holding the motor still while trying to unbolt the flywheel? I believe the tm has you removing all kinds of items up front to hold it up there. Just trying to find a cheat somewhere.
 

clinto

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Is there any tricks to holding the motor still while trying to unbolt the flywheel? I believe the tm has you removing all kinds of items up front to hold it up there. Just trying to find a cheat somewhere.
Impact wrench.
 

doghead

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Merged all 3 threads you started for this project.

Please continue in this(one) thread.
 

clinto

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Yea, my 1/2 inch is doing nothing.
Put your 3/4" on it. If that doesn't work, put the 1" on it. :)

Remember, the bolt pattern on the flywheel is asymmetrical. It will only go on one way. Be prepared.

C
 

fpchief

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On taking off the rear main housing, the flywheel adapter housing gasket tore some. So should I leave what existing gasket there is in place and use liquid gasket maker, or using a exacto knife trim the rest of it away and liquid gasket all of it? This gasket does go underneath the entire adapter I believe.
uploadfromtaptalk1454359978603.jpg
 

chestypuller1371

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iwouldnt think you would have needed to take that off. you could have pried the seal out andpounded new one in i think? id clean it all off them apply a good bead of permatex gasket maker the grey kind to both surfaces let it tack then assemble.
 

rustystud

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iwouldnt think you would have needed to take that off. you could have pried the seal out andpounded new one in i think? id clean it all off them apply a good bead of permatex gasket maker the grey kind to both surfaces let it tack then assemble.
It is far easier to remove the seal housing and replace the seal then try and pry it out without damaging the crank. Plus installing it without the seal installer would be a tricky thing. I would make up a new gasket out of regular gasket material bought at any Auto supply store then use a gasket maker product. You don't want that stuff getting on the crank and possibly the bearing. I've seen guys in the shop do that and ended up with silicone (RTV) getting into the oil galley and causing all sorts of trouble. Small chance but why risk it ?
 

chestypuller1371

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It is far easier to remove the seal housing and replace the seal then try and pry it out without damaging the crank. Plus installing it without the seal installer would be a tricky thing. I would make up a new gasket out of regular gasket material bought at any Auto supply store then use a gasket maker product. You don't want that stuff getting on the crank and possibly the bearing. I've seen guys in the shop do that and ended up with silicone (RTV) getting into the oil galley and causing all sorts of trouble. Small chance but why risk it ?
you could just use a seal puller pry type or drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to remove seal. this is the way ive done them on 1 piece rear main seals on v8 pickups.
 

fpchief

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No, the seal and housing is out on the pic. Just talking about the gasket behind housing and the adapter plate. The seal was easy as pie to take out of the housing. Cleaned it up and popped it rigjt back in with rubber mallet and piece of 2x4.
 
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