• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Rear main seal

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
Yea the tm's usually do the truck for me, but sometimes I just have to ask for some clarification. As with those little blocks.
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
I can not put the blocks under the fingers. They will not move. Just take out half the bolts then the rest? Any dangers I need to be aware of? This thing is right in my face as I am sitting where transmission should be.
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
I think I just figured the blocks out. you don't push them in, you put the blocks in and keeps fingers in while loosening bolts. Still, any dangers with it at all?
uploadfromtaptalk1454251782460.jpg
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,810
113
Location
GA Mountains
If you use a small piece of hardwood, just make it to where is just fits in place. Once you start unbolting the pressure plate, the spring pressure will lock the wood blocks in place.

Edit; looks like you got it!
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
Flywheel removal

Is there any tricks to holding the motor still while trying to unbolt the flywheel? I believe the tm has you removing all kinds of items up front to hold it up there. Just trying to find a cheat somewhere.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,134
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
Is there any tricks to holding the motor still while trying to unbolt the flywheel? I believe the tm has you removing all kinds of items up front to hold it up there. Just trying to find a cheat somewhere.
Impact wrench.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Merged all 3 threads you started for this project.

Please continue in this(one) thread.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,134
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
Yea, my 1/2 inch is doing nothing.
Put your 3/4" on it. If that doesn't work, put the 1" on it. :)

Remember, the bolt pattern on the flywheel is asymmetrical. It will only go on one way. Be prepared.

C
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
On taking off the rear main housing, the flywheel adapter housing gasket tore some. So should I leave what existing gasket there is in place and use liquid gasket maker, or using a exacto knife trim the rest of it away and liquid gasket all of it? This gasket does go underneath the entire adapter I believe.
uploadfromtaptalk1454359978603.jpg
 

chestypuller1371

New member
117
2
0
Location
Butte Alaska
iwouldnt think you would have needed to take that off. you could have pried the seal out andpounded new one in i think? id clean it all off them apply a good bead of permatex gasket maker the grey kind to both surfaces let it tack then assemble.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
iwouldnt think you would have needed to take that off. you could have pried the seal out andpounded new one in i think? id clean it all off them apply a good bead of permatex gasket maker the grey kind to both surfaces let it tack then assemble.
It is far easier to remove the seal housing and replace the seal then try and pry it out without damaging the crank. Plus installing it without the seal installer would be a tricky thing. I would make up a new gasket out of regular gasket material bought at any Auto supply store then use a gasket maker product. You don't want that stuff getting on the crank and possibly the bearing. I've seen guys in the shop do that and ended up with silicone (RTV) getting into the oil galley and causing all sorts of trouble. Small chance but why risk it ?
 

chestypuller1371

New member
117
2
0
Location
Butte Alaska
It is far easier to remove the seal housing and replace the seal then try and pry it out without damaging the crank. Plus installing it without the seal installer would be a tricky thing. I would make up a new gasket out of regular gasket material bought at any Auto supply store then use a gasket maker product. You don't want that stuff getting on the crank and possibly the bearing. I've seen guys in the shop do that and ended up with silicone (RTV) getting into the oil galley and causing all sorts of trouble. Small chance but why risk it ?
you could just use a seal puller pry type or drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to remove seal. this is the way ive done them on 1 piece rear main seals on v8 pickups.
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
No, the seal and housing is out on the pic. Just talking about the gasket behind housing and the adapter plate. The seal was easy as pie to take out of the housing. Cleaned it up and popped it rigjt back in with rubber mallet and piece of 2x4.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks