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Rear Seals

cten

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Okay, I need help again.


I have to change out a rear seal on the left rear.



I'm going to check out the diagrams and see what I need.



It there a quick list anyone has or any guidance.



Anythings that I need to watchout for or be careful doing?



How hard is the level of difficulty? 1-10? 10 being difficult.



Is it neccesary to do all (4) or can I get a way with just the one that is leaking?



Regards,
 

Recovry4x4

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Do the one that is leaking for now. The process does get you in there to check brakes and the such so eventually you need to add this to your maintenance. You need basic tools and the wheel bearing nut socket. The socket for reference is 3" 8 sided. Difficulty is probably a 3 but it does take some time and you will get a bid dirty. A dual wheel dolly makes the job much quicker in the fact that you can just slide the entire hub assy with tires attached right off. Some folks have done this with a greased up sheet of plywood and sild the tire assy on it. Just look at the diagram and remember the cork piece that goes in the keyway. Might I also suggest that you remove your axle vents and clean them thoroughly, they contribute to seal leakage. Also remember that the bearings are packed in grease, not lubed by the gear oil like most commercial trucks.
 

FSBruva

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In the "Deuce Tips & Tricks" thread, someone mentioned using a PVC pipe to help seat the seals safely and evenly. Just a thought.

Matt


(post edit)

Oops... thinking of the wrong seal(s) sorry.

MK
 

Gatnom

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A piece of PVC pipe slid over the spindle will protect the threads while sliding the hub off and on. It can save alot of aggravation. Be sure to check the back side of the hub for dirt that loves to fall in the bearing cavity as you manuver the hub. Dave
 

ken

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I haven't taken the rear weel bearings off, but i have changed the gasket from the axle shaft to the hub. (gear oil was leaking.) Kenny, If the rear weel bearings ride in grease should there be a seal to stop the gear oil from entering the housing?
 

Gatnom

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Two seals: One in the keyway slot, and the other being a lip type seal going under the first lock nut and holding the keway "wedge" seal in place. Then a grease seal on the inboard side. Dave
 

ken

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Thanks dave. Looks like i'll be doing some bearing inspections this weekend. They have gone swimming too many times.
 

cten

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As I have never done this before and I'm going to act like Micky the dunce.

What parts do I pre-order to have on hand to do this?

Just an outter seal and the cork piece?

As I would think I should be able to reuse the bearings as this was caught in time.

Thoughts???

Make sense?

Part# 12 and 18 on page 672 of TM-9-2320-361-20

Do I need to order part# 5 on the same page inner seal?

Regards,
 

cranetruck

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When you drive in water deep enough to cover the axles and fill the brake drums, then your inner seal will keep water out of the bearings. Check for water in the grease.

If it lets grease out, the "mud slinger" will keep the grease from getting into the brake drum, but there will be grease everywhere else.

If gear oil is mixed with the (bearing) grease then your outer seal is NG.
Gear oil in the grease will cause the grease to run off the bearings and allow rust to get a hold, that is if the truck is not used for a period of time.

Like Kenny said, check your axle breather valves while you'r at it. Take them out and alternately blow and suck air through them with your mouth. A light pressure, about 2 psi or so, will let you blow out, but the valve must close when you breath in. A small springloaded rubber membrane within the valve makes it all happen. If you cant make them work, get new ones.
 

cten

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Already cleaned out the two mushroom vents on the back axles.

I have to order a replacement to have on hand as I have to do the front and it is not coming off too easily.

I'm going to order the parts to have on hand and to it next week I'm hoping.

Regards,
 
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