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Rear shaft out of tailpiece - how much?

Sharecropper

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Just finished raising my M1028 five inches. Used ORD shackle flip kit and Zero-Rates on rear.

Question - the lifting of the truck caused my rear driveshaft to pull out of the transmission tailpiece an extra 1-1/2". Is this too much? How much is still left in the tailpiece? Should I order a longer drive shaft?

Thanks.
 

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Cucvnut

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Your fine it wont fall out you have like almost 6 inches total on the yoke. I run my stock rear drive shaft on my rig I dont have issues.
 

319

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Yes, it's too much. You're going to get vibrations and wear the seal out.
 

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Last edited:

doghead

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Superlift and other companies make spacers to fix that. Cost about $75. Looks like you need a 1 inch spacer.
 

robert c neth

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been there done that and it tore the housing off the back of the t case ,i had my local shop make me an aluminum spacer to go between the shaft and the yoke on the rear axle .all was good.
 

Matt1031

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The alternate (preferred IMO) fix for this problem is to install a slip yoke eliminator kit/fixed yoke conversion and have a new driveshaft made. The new driveshaft will be a splined coupling style negating the need for a slip yoke at the T-case.

It's a more expensive way to go, but it has some definite advantages.
Pros:
-Stronger than slip yoke style tailhousing
- longer spline engagement means more travel available, no worries of separation under full axle "droop" or broken tailhousing from hard "bottoming out" (hold my beer while I take this jump :shock:).
- Rear seal lasts a LOT longer because it doesn't have to contend with rust or mud anymore. No more dribbles in the garage.
-Greater selection of yokes available, allows use of heavier U-joints, or even run a flange with a CV joint.
-Truck can be run without a rear driveshaft in an emergency/limp home situation

Cons:
-Truck is no longer "original", so it's not museum restoration correct
- Requires a custom built driveshaft
- It's not the cheapest way to go
 
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