• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

rear wheel leak...

319cssb

Well-known member
1,019
221
63
Location
Easley SC
I noticed a bit of a mess on the driveway. It looks like the brake cylinder is leaking. Or could it be a axle seal? What is more likely to leak on the M1009?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5817.jpgAt this point in time both are likely to leak. Easy fix. Change the axles seals, the wheel cylinders. I just changed 2 of them on an M1009 2 weeks ago for a customer. They are over 30 years old. I had to use a torch to get these off. DSCF5822.jpgEasy as that. Get a QT of DOT 5 brake fluid. I would even changed the axle tubing while you are at it. It's a simple task. Good Luck.
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,019
221
63
Location
Easley SC
View attachment 753333At this point in time both are likely to leak. Easy fix. Change the axles seals, the wheel cylinders. I just changed 2 of them on an M1009 2 weeks ago for a customer. They are over 30 years old. I had to use a torch to get these off. View attachment 753334Easy as that. Get a QT of DOT 5 brake fluid. I would even changed the axle tubing while you are at it. It's a simple task. Good Luck.
Did you have to use the torch the get the brake drum off?
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,019
221
63
Location
Easley SC
On a more positive note:
I found out that the rear wheel cylinder were not leaking (bought new ones though). I didn't replace them, yet. because the bolts were so totally rusted that they were almost round (crapp).
So what is leaking is the seal. I'll see if AutoZone has a loaner tool to get the axle out. that's gonna be fun, I bet.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
9,604
1,494
113
Location
mid- michigan
On a more positive note:
I found out that the rear wheel cylinder were not leaking (bought new ones though). I didn't replace them, yet. because the bolts were so totally rusted that they were almost round (crapp).
So what is leaking is the seal. I'll see if AutoZone has a loaner tool to get the axle out. that's gonna be fun, I bet.
There is a clip (# 5 ) on the axle that you remove and the axle should slide right out.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Get a strong pencil magnet. Remove the lock bolt and never use it over again. Remove the center pin and push the axle in towards the center slightly. Use the magnet to grab that steel C clip. It is easier then you think. Pull the axle and do the same on the other side. Be sure to replace the lock bolt.
- Dorman 81048 gets you a new bolt for less then $5. US. The bolt has special locking adhesive and it has been stressed. Best to replace. Or NOT. It's your truck. When you reassemble push the axle in slightly and install the C clip. Pull out on the axle. Put the center pin back in and a new lock bolt. Good Luck. A torch will get the bolts off the wheel cylinders and a hardware store will have the 4- 5/16" X 18 x 1/2" bolt and 4- 5/16" star washers. The metal brake line is 3/16" and you can buy pre cut or double flare and make your own. Fun times in South Carolina. Not so much out side in Pennsylvania today.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
946
695
93
Location
Rochester NY
I had to use the torch to get my rear wheels off, so I can imagine the drums are going to be just as fun.
This is why I use never-seize when re assembling parts like this, yeah it's messy when you get it on your hands but 2 or 30 years from now you'll be glad you used it!
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
946
695
93
Location
Rochester NY
Get a strong pencil magnet. Remove the lock bolt and never use it over again. Remove the center pin and push the axle in towards the center slightly. Use the magnet to grab that steel C clip. It is easier then you think. Pull the axle and do the same on the other side. Be sure to replace the lock bolt.
- Dorman 81048 gets you a new bolt for less then $5. US. The bolt has special locking adhesive and it has been stressed. Best to replace. Or NOT. It's your truck. When you reassemble push the axle in slightly and install the C clip. Pull out on the axle. Put the center pin back in and a new lock bolt. Good Luck. A torch will get the bolts off the wheel cylinders and a hardware store will have the 4- 5/16" X 18 x 1/2" bolt and 4- 5/16" star washers. The metal brake line is 3/16" and you can buy pre cut or double flare and make your own. Fun times in South Carolina. Not so much out side in Pennsylvania today.
Here we go about bolts again! :)

Defiantly replace that lock bolt! I had one that a DPO had broken of and left in there, that was fun.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
:DNever seize isn't going to stop the hex head from rotting off the bolt. And yes the OEM 5/16' bolts are grade 5 with a 3/8" hex head. The replacement ones should be grade 5 and will have a 1/2" hex head. Unless you want to look for Genuine GM wheel cylinders bolts. Good Luck. https://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf Just in case you don't trust my bolt suggestion.:D
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,019
221
63
Location
Easley SC
This is why I use never-seize when re assembling parts like this, yeah it's messy when you get it on your hands but 2 or 30 years from now you'll be glad you used it!
I use copper grease myself. Although that logic doesn't make sense. Maybe someone else someday will thank me that I've used it. But it wont benefit me for sure. Who knows what trucks ill have in 20 years
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,019
221
63
Location
Easley SC
Get a strong pencil magnet. Remove the lock bolt and never use it over again. Remove the center pin and push the axle in towards the center slightly. Use the magnet to grab that steel C clip. It is easier then you think. Pull the axle and do the same on the other side. Be sure to replace the lock bolt.
- Dorman 81048 gets you a new bolt for less then $5. US. The bolt has special locking adhesive and it has been stressed. Best to replace. Or NOT. It's your truck. When you reassemble push the axle in slightly and install the C clip. Pull out on the axle. Put the center pin back in and a new lock bolt. Good Luck. A torch will get the bolts off the wheel cylinders and a hardware store will have the 4- 5/16" X 18 x 1/2" bolt and 4- 5/16" star washers. The metal brake line is 3/16" and you can buy pre cut or double flare and make your own. Fun times in South Carolina. Not so much out side in Pennsylvania today.
Will definitely get new lockbolts. Thank you for the tip, cucvrus.
a 1/2" bolt is definitely better than a 3/8" whrn it comes to removal down the road.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks