gunit
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where can i get a rebuild kit for the air valve on the side of the trannsmission that operates the TC sprag engagement. whats a good price.
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rebuild kit for air valve
- Thread starter gunit
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jatonka
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I rebuilt one of mine with spray cleaner, o rings from a standard kit and a hand cut gasket. It works perfect now and leaks a little bit. You can get a brand new air valve from Memphis Equipment Co. for $195 plus some shipping. I did that too, cause I didn't trust the one I rebuilt. Funny thing, It is still working great three years later and the new one is still in the box. JT out
area52
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There is a thread on here somwhere that shows Chris (steelsoldiers) rebuilding his with alot of good pictures.
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I saw the price, and said no way. I have rebuilt two using off the shelf O-rings and parts I fabricated. I made the two sealing discs out of conveyor belting that is polymer, not rubber, with a cloth inner reinforcement. It has one very smooth side. I removed the old rubber discs from the poppets and epoxy glued in place my new discs made of the belting. They have worked with no problem for several years. I think the polymer with the inner reinforcement is stronger and more resistant to impression by the seats than the original rubber disc material.
You will see one disc with more wear (impression) than the other. The one with the most wear is the forward shift disc, which is engaged whenever the trans is in neutral or forward gears. The reverse disc only engages when the shifter is in reverse. When parking my trucks, I put the stick in reverse so the forward disc does not get all of the wear while the air pressure bleeds down. Small difference, but it helps.
If you want a piece of the belting PM me and I will send you some.
Regards Marti
You will see one disc with more wear (impression) than the other. The one with the most wear is the forward shift disc, which is engaged whenever the trans is in neutral or forward gears. The reverse disc only engages when the shifter is in reverse. When parking my trucks, I put the stick in reverse so the forward disc does not get all of the wear while the air pressure bleeds down. Small difference, but it helps.
If you want a piece of the belting PM me and I will send you some.
Regards Marti
gunit
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thanks for the offer, i rebuilt mine today with stuff i had laying around. works great. after taking it apart, (this was my first), i seen thier was not much to it. it engages in reverse now but still no forward. rebuilt that valve and the cylinder on the TC, is thier anything else before deciding its in the TC.
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Do you hear the air cylinder on the TC shift when you move the stick from neutral to reverse? I recognize that you rebuilt the cylinder, but sometimes it helps to ask what might seem like a dumb question. If you do not hear it make the "clunk" sound when you move the stick, check for air line restrictions, ice, etc.
If you hear that noise, then the cylinder is apparently working. One more test you can run is to remove the cylinder again and with one front wheel jacked up, engine not running, trans in neutral, have an assistant push the cylinder rod that goes into the TC in and try to rotate the front wheel each way. It should freewheel one way and lock up the other. If that works, have the assistant move the cylinder rod the other way and try the wheel rotation test again. It should freewheel and lock up the opposite way it did in the first test. This tests the clutch in the TC. If it fails one of the tests, then suspect the TC clutch. If you get engagement both ways, the clutch is good and something in the cylinder or air lines is the problem. We have some that are reluctant to shift when the weather is really cold.
Regards Marti
If you hear that noise, then the cylinder is apparently working. One more test you can run is to remove the cylinder again and with one front wheel jacked up, engine not running, trans in neutral, have an assistant push the cylinder rod that goes into the TC in and try to rotate the front wheel each way. It should freewheel one way and lock up the other. If that works, have the assistant move the cylinder rod the other way and try the wheel rotation test again. It should freewheel and lock up the opposite way it did in the first test. This tests the clutch in the TC. If it fails one of the tests, then suspect the TC clutch. If you get engagement both ways, the clutch is good and something in the cylinder or air lines is the problem. We have some that are reluctant to shift when the weather is really cold.
Regards Marti
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I should have warned to have the air pressure bled off when you remove the air lines, but you probably know that.
Regards Marti
Regards Marti
Rebuilding the air poppet valve on 5T tranny
I rebuilt mine for free and it worked perfectly. The problem is the circular flat rubber pad on the brass disk takes a set and fails to seal. The rubber dents inward in a circular pattern. Take out the disk and use a brand new single sided razor blade to cut the rubber off of the brass disk, right at the junction between the rubber and the brass. You end up with a circular rubber pad with an indentation in one side. Flip it over and glue it down with super glue. You now have a totally flat disk showing, made out of the same stuff. Reinstall, get two beers and a buddy and toast the repair job. Irv
I rebuilt mine for free and it worked perfectly. The problem is the circular flat rubber pad on the brass disk takes a set and fails to seal. The rubber dents inward in a circular pattern. Take out the disk and use a brand new single sided razor blade to cut the rubber off of the brass disk, right at the junction between the rubber and the brass. You end up with a circular rubber pad with an indentation in one side. Flip it over and glue it down with super glue. You now have a totally flat disk showing, made out of the same stuff. Reinstall, get two beers and a buddy and toast the repair job. Irv
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We just had an experience with our 5 ton dump last evening that mgiht help you. It would not drive in forward in the cold weather. We drained the transfer case oil and refilled it with diesel fuel. We drove it about 1/2 mile, then tried the front engagement. It worked now. We drained the diesel and refilled it with transdraulic oil we use in the transmissions of our farm tractors. The front drive now engages like it should. The oil has a high EP rating, so lubrication is not compromised. It works with no problem in our tractors that operate in much harsher conditions than our trucks do.
I put transdraulic in the gear boxes in my M-37, but it being thinner than the normal gear oil, I had to keep a close eye on the level because it gets through old seals that are not up to snuff. Watch for leaks and monitor oil level to prevent it getting away without you knowing it.
Regards Marti
I put transdraulic in the gear boxes in my M-37, but it being thinner than the normal gear oil, I had to keep a close eye on the level because it gets through old seals that are not up to snuff. Watch for leaks and monitor oil level to prevent it getting away without you knowing it.
Regards Marti