Rebuilding after 15 years of storage

[PHOENIX-GER]

Easy fix. Unfortunately you will need to take the fender, hood and cowl screen off to get to it properly. If it were me I would just take the entire front end off and start there. I can guarantee there is more places that need fixed. Good Luck. Start a thread and show the progress on your repairs. It always helps others. Take Care. Thank you for sharing.

I am agree with you
Did have offer from car-painters about 3000-5000 Euro for complete new paint... so before investing so much money it will be complete disassemble, cleaned and grounded by color ground and rustprotection.
Some people around us advice us to us car wraping - i dont know if i use the right translation, but i prefer painting than wraping with foil for an excellent finish.
We let the roll bar, the ram protection and the load shackels 20 years ago painted with powder coating on complete cleaned iron material but the result about rust protection was not better than just normal painting.... no matter of old material like the load shackels or complete new material from the roll bar and ram protection (own product and certificated in Germany) - today new not more able to got certificate for street use an any ramprotection for and SUV for this about the laws for people protection of vehicles...

 

[Chaski]

So all done with parts we have here, now waiting for the postman...... bringing us the glow plugs to go on
Thats the reason why the Chevy will be almost now only the 3rd car on service for us. We need cars which be always ready to go and not waiting for replacement parts... Unfortunately the most ist not available in the next carshop for the M1008.

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by the way - look inside a tank of 1986 after 15 year in storage - Tank was filled up as go in storage...

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the particles you see was sticky, a bit like rubber, in germany is diesel colored to be distingished from Heating oil what is cheaper but not allow to use for cars.
We do not find any rust inside, but a lot of dirt.
We descided not to clean up and install instead a new tank. It was bought in germany as original replacement part. We descide not to by any aftermarket product from USA because we feared that it not would fit correct.

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the new one

I know this is very late to the game, but the injection pump looks like it may be leaning towards the drivers side in that photo. Just curious- does the timing mark line up between the pump and flange?

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

I know this is very late to the game, but the injection pump looks like it may be leaning towards the drivers side in that photo. Just curious- does the timing mark line up between the pump and flange?

Never to late for an advice or comment! The installation is correct with the timing mark. After we had solved all problems around the glow plug controller and electrical system is the problem - It have in cold engine temperature a very loud "combustion noise" in germany we call this typical "Diesel-Nageln" . i don't know the right term in english, lit is louder as usually. I know that engine is loud but not so much. - no more longer existing.
I had never expected that the glow plug controller had so much effecting on the system as so much people but them out and have no problems. Also the smoke get down to normal.
We just tried it one time out of the glowplug controller by following the instructions for disable this part. But i must confess that was not an option for us. We have now two working glowplugcontroller as we bought a replacementpart after guessing the controller is defect. But it wasn't the controller, other things of the elctrical failures in summary give the reason. And at least i can say today the engine starts and work much better in cold condition with the controller.
It was a long time search of the cause, fortunetly sucessful.

My wife still is not trusting the system so we start our first distance-test-trip with a lot of electral control equipment and a tow truck in reserve
In the past usually (4 times) after 15 km the engine died of no more electrical energy as the complete battery system was not loaded.
After now changing several defects in the wiring, it should work proper!

About this conditions we need to find a time with our son to do that test. We have all today less time .... So still waiting for the final test

 

[ssdvc]

That looks good. I put a VDO tachometer in my M1009 at the same spot. I also split the cluster cover and added gauges to the View attachment 836183lower radio cover. I done that on a few of these before most people wanted just plain stock vehicles. That M1009 I drove till it had 135K on it and sold it.

Hey Rick, Which VDO tach is that?

 

[Rutjes]

Looks like Cockpit International series.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Now there is another disappointing update
After 15 km we were stranded on the roadside to be towed away again. Until we had this failure, never come over this distance.
The engine stopped just without anything else, no noise, just shut down - very popular at the intersection .....
You can prevent it if you are attentive enough and keep your foot on the gas. Unfortunately we had not full loaded batts so that the start attempt be not successful at that point. Fuel was enough inside - as i know the tank is long and flat, it could happend that you have fuelproblems with less fuel inside on a road with much up and down.
Replaced are already gastank, fuellines, injectors, Air and Dieselfilters, glowplugs, - did not have any Idea what the reason could be of that failure. First i thought there is not enough energy of the battery to restart. But for this i needed full loaded batts. So our next test will be with full loaded batts. We had before test-drive electrical test on the truck with repeated starts - so we take to much energy .... the restart on the road give enough energy for the starter but not enough power to restart finally..... you can restart the truck by jump start batts, but of course we had not such a big one beside...
By the way - let the truck run in idle speed - in parking position. It run and run and run.... had no failure, just as you start to take load on it.
At the moment when I brake I have to be careful that the engine does not stop - is there maybe a connection with the automatic gearbox which does not work properly? Unter Testdriving before shut down all gears shift cleanly and barely noticeably. The top speed is achievable, but I did not use the "top speed" before. It's a truck and that's how it drives ..... For sporty driving, I take another car.

 

[vanaisa]

Are you sure this new IP was correctly rebuilt, not just gaskets and O-rings replaced?

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Are you sure this new IP was correctly rebuilt, not just gaskets and O-rings replaced?

The injector pump is not new, not rebuilt or anything replaced. It was just removed and built in on the marks like before. The injector pump is the only thing which is not replaced on the fuelsystem.... and the truck was stored for 15 years.

 

[vanaisa]

ah, ok. Those symptoms - bad power and dies when released gas pedal, are most likely worn pump itself.
You can try to run thru it some strong diesel cleaner, chance is that there is some gunk or debris in IP.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

ah, ok. Those symptoms - bad power and dies when released gas pedal, are most likely worn pump itself.
You can try to run thru it some strong diesel cleaner, chance is that there is some gunk or debris in IP.

Thanks - i know of this diesel cleaner, never used some before on a dieselengine. I will try it.

I have already checked the options for an exchange or a repair. It is expensive but also a necessary part for the operation ... This investment is necessary so that the truck becomes an operational vehicle again

 

[nyoffroad]

Yes , a new pump is expensive but worth it. Get a NEWLY rebuilt pump or have yours rebuilt, do not get an older NOS (new old stock) pump as those seals are just as old as the seals in your pump.
Could a rubber fuel line be getting soft from the heat of driving and the collapsing thus starving the engine of fuel?

 

[Keith_J]

The one item which causes the most issue with idle speed is the metering valve. This must react positively with the tiny spring forces yet also negatively with the closing action of the governor centrifugal forces. Then the shut off solenoid must positively counter act all others.

The fit of the metering valve in the pump body is quite precise and easily impaired by the slightest varnish. Biodiesel is far more prone to such oxidation. A mixture of toluene, acetone and methanol sold under the Berryman brand as their B12 carburetor cleaner works. So does Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Yes , a new pump is expensive but worth it. Get a NEWLY rebuilt pump or have yours rebuilt, do not get an older NOS (new old stock) pump as those seals are just as old as the seals in your pump.
Could a rubber fuel line be getting soft from the heat of driving and the collapsing thus starving the engine of fuel?

Fuellines are all new, there are no visible damage on it.
I will take your advice when replacing the Injectorpump

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

The one item which causes the most issue with idle speed is the metering valve. This must react positively with the tiny spring forces yet also negatively with the closing action of the governor centrifugal forces. Then the shut off solenoid must positively counter act all others.

The fit of the metering valve in the pump body is quite precise and easily impaired by the slightest varnish. Biodiesel is far more prone to such oxidation. A mixture of toluene, acetone and methanol sold under the Berryman brand as their B12 carburetor cleaner works. So does Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle.

I thought something like that. Stored for 15 years and with biodiesel in the system ... 15 years ago I did not empty and clean the system - a mistake that is now taking revenge.
Thank you for the clear explanation of how the injector pump works and the error explanation

I'll try to clean the pump with the additives first and if that doesn't work I'll have to replace it

 

[german m1008]

stored with biodiesel ?!
...... then the rubber diesel lines may also have collapsed on the inside

Biodiesel is very aggressive towards gaskets and rubber lines

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

stored with biodiesel ?!
...... then the rubber diesel lines may also have collapsed on the inside

Biodiesel is very aggressive towards gaskets and rubber lines

all lines already exchanged and important to know it was not 100% Biodiesel. It was the ususl diesel which had 7% biodiesel include.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

there is now another problem
After the engine started getting worse and worse, we checked the new glow plugs. Despite the intact pre-glow module and the correct glow plugs, all plugs are defective. Two are stuck and we have to take the cylinder head down to remove them.
I have no explanation for it. Does anyone know a reason how this can happen. There have only been a few attempts to start since the module and glow plugs were replaced.
I thought the module prevents the glow plugs from overheating.

We used this glowplugs

Morlock Motors is under construction

morlock-motors.de

Neue verstärkte Glühkerzen für Chevy K30 / K5.
Börg Ecotherm 5AC13G

 

[vanaisa]

I have also 13G glowpugs, but i have manual switch. 10 seconds and Blazer is running.
Do you have original setup for glowplugs - i.e. 24V to resistor pack and from there 12V to GP relay? If so, then if one or more plugs are defective (yes, new plug can be defective too), voltage raises for other glowplugs and can burn them.
As i understand, GP controller just measures engine temperature and calculates lenght/time of heat.

At least this, what i learned here from older topics.

Yes, one thing more - there are glowplugs, that are self-regulating, so they dont burn easily. But i do´nt remember manufacturer or numbers...

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

I have also 13G glowpugs, but i have manual switch. 10 seconds and Blazer is running.
Do you have original setup for glowplugs - i.e. 24V to resistor pack and from there 12V to GP relay? If so, then if one or more plugs are defective (yes, new plug can be defective too), voltage raises for other glowplugs and can burn them.
As i understand, GP controller just measures engine temperature and calculates lenght/time of heat.

At least this, what i learned here from older topics.

Yes, one thing more - there are glowplugs, that are self-regulating, so they dont burn easily. But i do´nt remember manufacturer or numbers...

We have original setup for glowplugs.

we did not measure the new glow plugs before built in... so it could be that one was defective and so did the others too ... We last fixed a bug in generator 2, which was bought completely new and installed with a new regulator. In the end it turned out that the coals were stuck in the regulator and therefore the alternator did not charge. Who opens a new alternator and checks the inner workings ... we now! At the moment I am endlessly annoyed about so many errors in the system. Not that we had completely overhauled the engine and the electric. Now I have to take the cylinder head down again and hope that the damage is not too high.

 

[vanaisa]

Bad luck, man. But before you take heads off, try fish those broken glowplug particles off with magnet. GP holes are small but if you take injector off?