Rebuilding X doors - Parts

[Robus1022]

Hello I am refinishing my X doors and hoping a few members can chime in on some details. One question I have is the aluminum trim. 2 doors could stand to replace the lower half of the outer trim. Next question is the rubber seal: kascar threw in a free length for one door. They charge $50 per door for seal - since this stuff is cut to length; can anyone recommend a vendor/distributor or a source/part number to lead me in the right direction? Thanks to some fellow members I have the new window seals and soon some catches for the body; also in pursuit of the rear door body hinge but the same user with the catches may be able to provide these. Last but not least, any tips for prepping carc that is not chipped or pealing? Thank you for any assistance!

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Just lightly sand it...wash and then paint over it.

 

[TedG]

What Steve said. CARC, especially type 2 is very easily covered with a light sanding and wash. Just remember it IS CARC so take the necessary precautions when working with it. Light chips in CARC can be sanded smooth, deeper ones can be patched with a little bondo. If the matting is exposed, then you will have to cover it for paint will just be absorbed into it.

Also, the seal is a PIA to install. I recommend NOT removing the aluminum trim from door. Instead, use a lubricant and putty knife and press in the seal. If splicing a piece in, do the same and then use black sealant to connect. The price you mentioned from Kascar is not bad at all and it is correct.

 

[Robus1022]

I have a dust collector nearby and particulate respirator on. My concern with the aluminum is the two mentioned sections are badly dented/bent. The rest of the trim is immaculate. kascar has been very good to me so I will most likely order seals and other odds and ends from them, was only hoping a member had experience elsewhere. Have you guys replaced the abs/plastic roller bushing in the window frame? Windows have lateral play ~1/2", was thinking nylon round stock and machine to size, again I wanted to inquire before diving in. (Already dove into $10k worth of parts for a $9k truck.). Also what is recommended if replacing glass with tempored or lexan for the rubber window seal? I understand downsides of lexan for automotive/exterior application, and am an experienced tinter making the tempored route more desirable. Lexan can be bought at same thickness but tempered will be almost half the thickness of the 3-ply. Source for new rubber window seals? As you can see I am doing a heavy resto of the doors.. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Robus1022]

From heavy detail sanding to orbital was night and day in quality of paint adhesion. The meshy grid pattern of the kevlar was vivid until a quick orbital sanding. The orbital also gave the x's a much sharper/consistent/defined profile!

 

[jake-cutter]

What size are the rivets on the door that holds the window trim? I have some missing from when the outer aluminum was removed. .

 

[TedG]

Each door window has 4 plastic bushings. I always have bought oem so using something else is a guess but doable. There are at least 2 thicknesses of glass for X-doors so the window frames are different to accommodate this. I use only DOT glass from a local shop and it comes tinted slightly green which looks nice to me on a hmmwv. For thicker glass, a good glass company will laminate two different thicknesses to match the frame. It has been a few years so I do not remember the thickness.

True on the sanding methods, it is all about what you want your hmmwv to look like and choose accordingly. I really like scott-pads and a good cleaning and then spray with type 9 CARC.

Rivets are structural and you can find very close spec'd ones from fastenal or e-a or perhaps some ss vendors here. You will have to measure the diameter and grip range.

 

[Robus1022]

Ted very valuable information. Much appreciated. Did not think about a local place laminating. Have you ever replaced the rubber picture-frame style seal/gasket that holds the window in the frame? Mine are dryrot, torn, worn and painted.

 

[TedG]

You're welcome. I have not had to change them. However on other mv's, I have used a glass tape that is similar electrical and tar-ish tape.

 

[Robus1022]

Fastenal part # 41027 @ $.09 /e to replace all of the structural rivets. These are only for the window brackets. The surround trim has a longer grip range(I did not need those, so I have not researched a correct replacement.) With a dewalt rivet tool ($22 @hd) two pumps breaks and pulls the parts together very tightly without cracking.