Recommendations for Paint, Underbody Long Term Fire/Rescue Use

[sburrell]

We are putting a M927 into service at our department for a All-Terrain Rope Rescue truck (Rope equipment and 2 Ranger UTV's). Currently its CARC tan with very little rust. I've seen behr paint mentioned but for our application we are going with standard flat white for the cab and black for the grill and underbody.

A couple of questions I have are:
Any pointers on prep that is important for the behr paint or other recommendations?

What is a good practice for the underbody? Behr, undercoating, or other?

How do I tell if the 6x6 is actually activating other than jacking it up or getting it stuck? Do these have road bind like normal 4x4's on hard surfaces?

What oil conversions should be done if any?

Any suggestions/pics of additional tool boxes? I am thinking about mounting a few Buyers boxes under the bed.

Thanks

Shane

 

[Suprman]

You can activate the 6x6 in high mode via a small lever lower right of the steering column. A light should illuminate on the strip above the steering wheel. You can feel the difference driving with the front engaged compared to not engaged take it around the block a few times try engaged and non engaged. All the lights suck you should upgrade the blinkers to leds get led headlights and floods for the front and rear many led makers have lights that run on 24v. Everyone will tell you, read the TM's. I dont see why you couldnt undercoat it.

 

[sburrell]

I believe our 6x6 operation isn't engaging. I do hear air being applied and released but there is no change in driving it around. Luckily our lights all work and the driving lights have already been upgraded. We will also be adding our standard emergency lights in 24vdc version along with radios attached to 12V leg with 60 amp equalizer. I've been digging thru the TM and the software to diagnose 6x6 engagement. I made as far to see that our low range (no reverse operation in low) is still setup to engage the 6x6 mode. The light does illuminate for 6x6 but I don't notice any difference in driving in on hard dirt or even pavement.

 

[Suprman]

6x6 will still be engaged in low range but giving it too much gas in reverse low can damage the transfer case. Its more noticeable when steering with the 6x6 engaged. Another member might know better how to check it drivetrain is not my best area of expertise.

 

[sburrell]

We have elected to not use lowrange in reverse at all by affixing a sign and training. But in high range going thru the parking lot steering side to side I don't notice a difference and assume it is not engaging.

 

[Suprman]

Why dont you do some all terrain training with it and see how it does. Im sure there will be somewhere you will be able to tell if it is engaged. Just stay away from mudholes till you are sure its working.

 

[LCFD]

Shane,

my fire department is lookin to do something similar. We were thinking about rhino lining the underside and the bed. Let me know how it works out for you guys.

 

[Suprman]

When your installer hooks up your lights make sure he uses diesel rated wire or marine grade wire these things leak oil here and there regular wire does not seem to last on these vehicles

 

[bigginstactical]

Rhino lining is a great idea for the bottom but if you have a tight budget try a product called raptor. Its around $120 for a six bottle kit and the gun is around 20 bucks. six bottles should be enough for the bottom of the cab. we usually prep by a good cleaning and sanding with 80 grit. As for the body I would recommend a product called ALK or AUE. You add the amount of flattening agent you want or leave it shiny. Super cheap per gallon and a really good industrial coating.

 

[LCFD]

I couldn't find anything for ALK or AUE on google. Any more information?

 

[bigginstactical]

Here is a pdf to some info about ALK. AUE is the newer verson of it and is better in some applications. I dont know what automotive stores you have over there but here we use baxters. Anyone who sells PPG should carry the ALK/AUE line since it is a ppg product. All the colors can be custom mixed to whatever you like. I would find a dealer and go talk to them for sure! hope this helps! good luck.View attachment CPC3_ALK200_201_2_Acrylic_Enamel.pdf

 

[sburrell]

We did a test patch for both linex and rhino. It works very well if you are going to do a frame off coating. However this unit was in excellent shape and has a coating underneath the carc which both linex and rhino would not adhere to without complete sand prep. Something that is very hard to do with removing the bed and accessing the frame. So far we have used POR15 on the underbed where there was minimal rust and used rattlecan bedliner to get the lower section in the flat black. We did try a test patch of normal undercoating but it was too soft. The spray liner adhears well and it seems to like just a light 220 sanding on either the coating underneath or the carc paint. It dries hard and should be easy to maintain. The cab and sides I'm following up on the PPG suggestion in this thread. The PPG ALK industrial should be an ideal solution in eggshell finish. We have done a few test patches. Below are results.

Behr Premium House paint - Full cure was over a week and I'm still not sure its fully cured. It does not pass the tool scratch test but does adhear well to light sanded carc.
SW Carc waterbourn - Full cure was less than 24 and does pass the tool scratch test. Expensive $120 gallon
Lowes / Valspar - Full cure took about 3 days. It does pass the tool scratch test. Not sure what long term this will do but for the cost and fact we are a single color it may be direction we go.
PPG - Rep is coming out to shoot a test patch.