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Remote Filters

SP5

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New member here, please excuse my ignorance if this is in the wrong forum. I did several searches, but could not find anything that addresses this,
I have read several posts that concern changing the oil filters to the spin-on type, and the consensus is that "instant oil pressure" is obtained.
With the spin-on filter mounted up-side down, does it still not take time to fill the filters?
Could not, (or is there), an adapter that would allow lines to be plumbed to a remote location, so that the filters could be mounted in an upright position, this would allow the filters to be "pre-filled" with oil, and maybe open-up some space around the engine.
Depending upon location, one might be able to change filters with very little muss/fuss,,(even wearing a white shirt,,lol).
As an aside, for fuel, I run one of the old Fram double-cartridge units in my diesel boat engine, as a secondary, and they will filter down to 0ne(1) micron. The spin-on Racor, used as a primary, is two (2) microns.
 

tie6044

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The filters used in spin on oil filter kits have an anti drain back valve in them to prevent the oil from draining back into the pan like the stock filters.
 

SP5

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The filters used in spin on oil filter kits have an anti drain back valve in them to prevent the oil from draining back into the pan like the stock filters.
So, are you saying that a new spin-on filter can be pre-filled with oil, and then be turned upside down to be screwed-on, without oil being spilled out of them.
 

Recovry4x4

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You can get filters with anti drain back but they still drain forward. They reduce the time of no oil pressure but don't eliminate it. Search for the term diablo build and see how he did his.
 
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clinto

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Recovry4x4

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Thank you all, I now have a much better understanding of the process/mechanics of the system.

While not directly connected with my previous post, I came across this, on the web, that some might find intresting;
http://bunkerofdoom.com/mil/m35/prelube1/index.html
That's brother Patrick's truck and prelube system. I think he has moved on to different hobbies but he was a staple here for many years! Good researching Sir!
 

tie6044

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I think a remote filter setup would be way better then the adapters and could be done for much less.
I agree that a remote setup would be better but I doubt it could be done cheaper. Unless you are a machinist and can make all the parts yourself.
 
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Bingo! I'm not a machinist but the only thing that would need to be machined would be one bolt. From what I've read on previous threads is it can all be done on the rear most filter housing. The center bolt is your out from the engine to the filter housing and tou could weld a bung into the outside of the canister for the return back to the engine from the filters. I don't think the canister housings would even need to be cut down at all. It would be more room taken up and it might cause a low pressure area in the oil system. I don't know for sure. I'm going to call me buddy tomorrow and see if he could whip me up some bolts and either cut down the housings or make two new ones out of some aluminum I have paying around.
 

SP5

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The stock filters are used in a paralell flow arangement. My thought was that the cannisters could be compleatly done away with, and some kind of a machined plate, fastened over the existing filter bosses, using shorter bolts, might be obtained, so that a pair of Aeroquip hoses could lead to a remote filter that was mounted right-side-up. This would really clean up that side of the engine.
In the motor pool, the stock set-up resulted in more time/effort being used for clean-up of the old oil mess than the time used for the actual oil change.
The replacement spin-on solution, because of the filters being up-side down, still leaves a mess, and still does not allow you to pre-fill the filter to reduce "dry-time".
Anyway, it's been something to ponder.
It seems, that of as now, no such animal exists,,too bad.
 

gimpyrobb

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The housings are cut down to speed up time to oil pressure. The reason it takes so long to get pressure is because you are waiting for those huge cans to fill up!
 

ATPTac

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One thing to bear in mind is that practically every engine on the road, unless equipped with a pre-lube system, dry starts for a brief second every time you start it, and especially after doing an oil change. A quick second or 2 of no oil pressure isn't going to hurt an engine in most cases. Not to say this is a bad idea (or that it would hurt anything), just maybe unnecessary. I plan on putting a spin on filter kit on when I do my next oil change, and having the anti drain back filters is sufficient enough in my opinion. I'm sure there is somebody out there who would argue with me, but if cars or trucks needed to have instant oil pressure the second you turned the key to maintain reliability, the manufacturers would install pre-lube systems from the factory. Especially in today's tight tolerance engines.

As Clinto pointed out in a different thread (can't remember which one exactly), these engines have been started for years upon years with the factory oil filter configuration without any issues. Not to say it wouldn't hurt to improve upon that. And I do agree that mounting the filters upside down would help with dry starting, particularly after doing an oil change if you're able to prime them. Not sure if its worth the hassle to go through all that for essentially one prolonged dry start after doing an oil change though.

My 2cents
 

welldigger

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I run jatonka's spin on filters and I couldn't be happier. Oil pressure in 2-3 seconds from cold start. Though my biggest concern was ease of maintenance and easy availability of the filters. When I change them there is little or no mess.

Now could a better design be built, I'm certain of that. Will you notice any benefit? Probably not. If you research into engine oils and why start up causes the most wear then your opinion would probably change quite a bit on the subject. Yes dry starting is bad for and engine but that isn't why the most wear happens. Especially on cold starting.

What happens is on a cold start the engine oil is actually too thick or viscous to properly lubricate. This is why warm up periods are so important. The oil needs to heat up to thin to the proper lubricating viscosity. If you notice more and more engine manufacturers are specifying thinner and thinner viscosities of engine oils. This is because oil technology has gotten to the point that the oils are closer and closer to proper viscosity right at cold start. While at the same time staying at the correct viscosity at operating temperature.
 
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