Remote Oil Filters...Done.

[bottleworks]

I finished making and installing the remote oil filter setup.
I highly suggest using a dual filter head unless you wish to have one filter on the firewall and one on the fender. These are poor pictures at best (and much of the engine is wet due to recent rain). I will take some better pictures on Saturday. The setup uses two 1970XD filters. The original filter canisters are cut down to remove the unneeded/waste volume. The one closest to the oil cooler acts as an outlet port. The other simply caps off the hole. Oil no longer flows through the center bolts. After flowing through the filters, it then returns to the port where the oil sample valve is normally located. I relocated the oil sampling port to the filter head closest to the firewall.

 

[builder77]

Very nice. Have you run it much yet? What is your pressure like before and after? How quick does it get pressure cold compared to before?

 

[jkelly66]

looks good changing them will be so much easier been thinking of doing mine that way as well as Devil96 primary fuel filter mod.

 

[cranetruck]

Looks like you bypassed the oil cooler....

 

[Stretch44875]

Interested in the time to build oil pressure on a cold engine...

Dennis

 

[Bidslinger]

Bw, Do you have generic bom of parts used for the remotes?

 

[cranetruck]

Return the oil to the port on the far left in the image below, you will need to cool the oil. The coolant cooled cooler is much more efficient than air cooled filter canisters. Please, install some gauges to monitor what you do, an oil temp gauge is now important. Is there a bypass valve in your circuit? Are your filters installed in series or parallel? What flow rate can they support? How do you know when to change your new filters, they will build up resistance to flow faster if less than 25 microns.
Neat project, but a single bypass filter (Amsoil etc.) will do the job without risking upsetting flow, pressure and temp and original design goals of the engine. The dry-start problem will of course not be solved with the bypass filter....

 

[jkelly66]

Maybe I need to rethink trying that than

 

[SasquatchSanta]

This is a neat looking setup! Thanks for sharing it.

Just thinking out loud but is there any way that the return lines could be plumbed into the tops of a set of modified center bolts?

It's a shame there isn't room to allow steel flanges to be welded to the tops of the shortened canisters that could somehow serve as foundations for mounts for the remote filters. If the new filters could be mounted to the side and above the existing canisters by using the shortened canisters as a foundation hoses would be short and simple. I should go out and lift the hood on "Rosie" to see if there is room but it's currently 20 below outside --- need I say more.

Thanks Again

 

[bottleworks]

Well, I am going to have to disagree about the cooler. I don't believe it is being bypassed. The oil leaving the filters flows back into the system just before the cooler. I considered returning the oil to the port on the far left of your picture, however, I don't believe it will flow as well. It's only 1/2" NPT and I consider 3/4" the min. I want it to be better then stock, not equal.

The stock filter bypass valve is still in place and still active. The filters are installed in parallel. This setup should flow and filter better then stock...Oh, and stop the dry startup. The filters are Wix 51970XD. They flow 28-30 GPM EACH. (Info: http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51970XD ). The Beta ratio for the filters can be found at the link.

A bypass filter, IMHO, is just a band aid to a poor oiling system designed in the 60's and built by the lowest bidder.

With enough work, anything can be made, but machining a unit to allow the 3/4" hose to connect to the 7/8" center bolt is beyond me. Someone was talking about making adaptors to allow a spin on filter to sit upside down where the stock filters go.

I don't have any pressure results yet. I just have not had enough time for complete cool downs to restart it again. The filters only have approximately 1/2 hr on them. This is still very, very new and preliminary.

Oil changes will be based off of oil analyses results. Different filters doesn't mean the oil shouldn't be checked. Granted, I may not have to change it for...A long time.



The filter heads are Perma-Cool 6630 heads originally made for the Fram HP6 racing filter. The hoses are standard hyro hoses @ 3/4" by 36". I cut the original filter canisters down on a lathe. Cut down the center posts to match and threaded to 7/8" -14. Drilled and welded on a pipe fitting to the right side canister top for the "oil out"/"raw oil".

 

[OPCOM]

This is very interesting, heck, cutting the filter cans down and making a hole like that in one is beyong me.. The discussion and pictures of this work and all sides of the opinions is very stimulating. This board is great, it's like a think tank.

 

[Floridianson]

I would like to see flow numbers not pressure.
Did you block off the bottom of the last canister so no oil would flow out?
If there is no blockage I think the path of least resistance says that won't flow.

 

[bottleworks]

I would like to see flow numbers not pressure.

Agreed. I wish I had a flow meter...Any ideas to measure without one? Other then the fact that the filters get worm?

Did you block off the bottom of the last canister so no oil would flow out?
If there is no blockage I think the path of least resistance says that won't flow.

Both center bolts of the stock canisters simply act as bolts/hold downs. There is no flow through them. In stock form, there are 4 holes in the shafts that allow flow into the center of the shaft and down to the stock filter housing. These holes have been removed. The only time that oil flows in the passage directly below the canister hold down bolts is when the filter bypass valve is open (15 PSI differential valve).

 

[cranetruck]

....The only time that oil flows in the passage directly below the canister hold down bolts is when the filter bypass valve is open (15 PSI differential valve).

That passage is, of course, the input for the oil cooler, that's why I thought that it may be bypassed (see my post above) and oil temp monitoring will be important..... I'm stubborn, I'll do it my way...now let's see, what set of gauges will I need for this...

 

[Pinkie]

A bypass filter, IMHO, is just a band aid to a poor oiling system designed in the 60's and built by the lowest bidder.

I do not agree with this. A bypass filter is there to catch things when the primary filter clogs up. This has nothing to do with year, model, or manufacture of an engine. ALL construction equipment have a primary and secondary �bypass� filter installed. It is for dirty environments. All of my dump-trucks (late model) and equipment have this feature and it is a good idea. Even on engines that do no have a bypass filter, you can generally get a kit that will create one. Just think about it, if a filter is bad out of the box and you do not know it, you will run that motor without filtration and not know it on a single filter setup. At $10,000 to $20,000 for a new engine, bypass filters sound like a good idea to me. Redundancy is always good, off my soapbox now.

 

[cranetruck]

The bypass filter I'm referring to is not a back-up filter system, it's a filter which extends the capability of the original filters and filters the oil to a much finer micron level continously.
A "by pass" filter will filter all the oil to the level determined by its micron rating, it just takes longer. It may take an hour instead of minutes to do the job.
If your overall filtering system lets lots of dust in (air filter and crankcase breather) and creates soot at abnormally high leves, perhaps a full flow filter with finer micron rating is warranted.
I know that my coolant bypass filter keeps all the coolant clear and I'll report the results from my oil bypass sytem as well when time comes.
A separate full flow filter is probably a good idea from a dry-start point of view, but there is still the oil cooler to fill and the gallery so it's not as good as a pre-lube system anyway.

Disagreements are good, because at least one of us will learn something (probably me).

 

[tbrenner]

The Amsoil website has some good information on bypass filtering and the concept behind it.

 

[bottleworks]

I should have rephrased that.... I am all for bypass filters. Every engine should have one. It's just that the bypass filter is only solving one issue. Everything needs to be resolved with the oil system. I would like to install a bypass filter too. I don't think I will be able to do it anytime soon...I have no more money to spend on the truck.

 

[Floridianson]

Well I must say that if you have the center shaft blocked off then you have done it.
Good job.

 

[devilman96]

To answer some of technical stuff... He is using the 51970XD Wix filters which are 5 micron (B2=5) which are rated for 40,000 miles. The flow rate on each filter is 28-30 GPM (a single filter meets the trucks flow requirements) and he has them plumbed in parallel so he is good for 56 GPM. This filter is used in both bypass and full flow set up's pending the base you mount it on... Essentially he is vastly out performing what a single bypass filter would be capable of doing for a oil system. http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51970XD

I agree that there needs to be some further testing and research done on the set up but I think BW was relying on my technical info for the project and applying what hardware he could come up with to get the job done... I agree 100% with Bjorn temp, flow and pressure need to be monitored but I think oil sampling will be the true measuring stick once the essentials are checked for being with in parameter.

As a side effect he has kicked me royally in the arse to purchase a $1000.00 (shipped today) in bases and get my butt in gear on putting mine together. I am working with a different set of bases which come in single, dual or quad configurations. The idea is more filters, less fittings in the system the up front cost of the base is more but the lesser number of fittings make up for it. I am working to keep the fitting count down to one per hose end, this may not be possible where 90's are needed but otherwise a dual filter base will have one inlet and one outlet fitting.

As mentioned in other postings I am trying to come up with a set up that I can put together for anyone to install... "a kit" more or less... Some of us can fabricate our little brains out and some guys are very limited on resources and know how... I think its important to keep the install level down to a few common hand tools. I wouldn't recommend or suggest anything I come up with without testing and verifying the whole process making sure it does as intended. BW and I had this discussion and I've openly said many times in postings anyone whom wants the information I am working on / with they are more than welcome to jump right in and have at it with the understanding that until I am DONE its all "beta testing" on your truck at your own risk.

BW and I have been back and fourth for a long time on this. He has taken some of my ideas and some of his own to come up with what he has... Some of the things needed to clean up the over all "look" are very hard to find specialty fittings and various items. I commend him on his efforts and endeavors on a project. I don't like the plumbing, fittings and bases but over all its a respectable stab at getting the job done with limited cash and resources.

Some thingies I am doing differently...

As I said different bases, less fittings... I am going to work with both dual and single filter set ups one filter is very capable of exceeding the duals currently on the LD.

I am intending on mounting the bases under the drivers floor board which will put them at oil pan level meaning no drain back and easier servicing.

The bases I am using will accept both standard and high mileage filters as well as lower and higher beta (micron) ratings... With today's filter technology it is possible to filter at 20 or at 5 microns with the same flow rates, the only difference is filter design and cost.

Plumbing locations... I am still undecided but the top of the canister idea I passed up a while ago just due to the needed tooling to make the fitting work.

Bjorn, can you map out the flow directions on the housing you have pictured for everyone?