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Removing footwell box

Ajax MD

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How does one typically go about removing the "box" in the rear passenger foot wells?

They're held in by an overabundance of rivets. There's definitely no way to hit all of them with a drill due to angles and space limitations.
I read somewhere that this was a common mod in the Avenger models? I'd like to use the well to store a spare tire and fuel can.
 

TOBASH

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I’m not sure a spare tire would fit there.

A Dremmel with a grinding bit can get most types of rivets out.
 
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Ajax MD

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I’m not sure a spare tire would fit there.

A Dremmel with a grinding bit can get most types of rivets out.
I don't think it'll "bottom out" in the footwell but it will settle in much deeper. I can create a wooden chock for it, to support the weight a bit and then strap it down. Good tip on the Dremel. They sell a remote head for them that I should be able to get into the nooks and crannies. I should have thought of that.
 

Action

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I don't think it'll "bottom out" in the footwell but it will settle in much deeper. I can create a wooden chock for it, to support the weight a bit and then strap it down. Good tip on the Dremel. They sell a remote head for them that I should be able to get into the nooks and crannies. I should have thought of that.
Wouldn’t the front seat get in the way before the tire got close to nestling in the hole?
 

Ajax MD

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Wouldn’t the front seat get in the way before the tire got close to nestling in the hole?
It doesn't look that way. The uh, structure bar (for lack of a better word) looks like it'll stop the tire before it touches the seat.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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I’ve installed many many rear seat bases, all the rivets are accessible, either from up top or underneath.
IMO,this is a bad idea, buy an airlift bumper and install a tire carrier and can carrier.
you don’t want a 125lb tire and fuel can inside your cab.
 

Ajax MD

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I’ve installed many many rear seat bases, all the rivets are accessible, either from up top or underneath.
IMO,this is a bad idea, buy an airlift bumper and install a tire carrier and can carrier.
you don’t want a 125lb tire and fuel can inside your cab.
I know it's heavy. You really don't think there's a good way to secure the tire?
 

Crapgame

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If you can remove the rear seat boxes without damaging them I'd be interested in buying them,

Some of these trucks are so old the pop rivets themselves are oxidized to heck. I had to remove a set of older Driver Seat floor plates which are similar installation to the rear seat buckets, except the seat boxes may not have Permatex adhesive like the High Back Seat Floor Plate install does.

Use a center punch to make a divot in the pop rivet stem remnant inside the rivet. Then I used a 5/16" cobalt Pilot point drill bit to drill out the wide flange of the rivet head. After that you can use a punch to knock the remaining rivet shank out of the flooring or gently use a pry bar or screwdriver to pop the seat buckets off the rivet stem. Some of the rivets were so oxidized the aluminum flanges broke off on their own, if not, the pilot point bit didn't take much effort to cut it away, just a few short bursts with the drill to save the floor plates or seat boxes in your case.
Dewalt Pilot Point Bit.jpg
 
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Milcommoguy

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If you can remove the rear seat boxes without damaging them I'd be interested in buying them,

Some of these trucks are so old the pop rivets themselves are oxidized to heck. I had to remove a set of older Driver Seat floor plates which are similar installation to the rear seat buckets, except the seat boxes may not have Permatex adhesive like the High Back Seat Floor Plate install does.

Use a center punch to make a divot in the pop rivet stem remnant inside the rivet. Then I used a 5/16" cobalt Pilot point drill bit to drill out the wide flange of the rivet head. After that you can use a punch to knock the remaining rivet shank out of the flooring or gently use a pry bar or screwdriver to pop the seat buckets off the rivet stem. Some of the rivets were so oxidized the aluminum flanges broke off on their own, if not, the pilot point bit didn't take much effort to cut it away, just a few short bursts with the drill to save the floor plates or seat boxes in your case.
View attachment 825322

I used an air hammer AKA rivet gun with a sharpen 5/8 or so wide chisel bit. One or two second "burps" across the head or tail of rivet and done. Sheared them all off fast and easy quick. Then tap shank out with punch and peen hammer. No elongated holes, sharp chips, sore muscles. More like a "Pac Man" game. Where your safety glasses, & ear plugs.

Work for getting the drivers seat junk out for the new seat base too.

Now go eat them up, CAMO

pacman.pngWak wak wak wak wak wak
 
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Ajax MD

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Nice. I have an air hammer. I'll see if I can find a sharp chisel implement for it. I didn't think you could fit an air tool inside the box to knock off all the rivets but obviously you have.
 

Mogman

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I have also been removing quite a few rivets lately just using a SHARP hand chisel and a hammer, they cut of very cleanly
 
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Ajax MD

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It's farking cold and a parade of weather systems rolling through. This is going to have to wait a bit.
 
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