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Removing front left body mount?

kfrosty

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Location
Belmont, NC
Starting work on a M1026 I'm going to paint and do an engine swap on. Trying to get the body off first, then take the engine out. (Not going to try and pull the engine out the front.)

Bolts are rusted. I can get a wrench on the bottom nut but can't get enough pressure on it to break it loose. Really hoping to not have to take the headers and the Y pipe off as getting to the exhaust bolts on the right side is a pain.

Just curious as to what others do. Again prefer to try and get the body off and then be able to work around the drive train and just lift it out.

Thanks
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
20
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
Yeah that bolt is a pain in the ass, I had to get to it when doing my body lift. I used probably 2ft of 1/2" extensions with a swivel to get to the bolt head from the top and a breaker bar to break it loose. Mine weren't that rusty though so yours might be worse.
 

kfrosty

New member
267
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Location
Belmont, NC
Yeah that bolt is a pain in the ass, I had to get to it when doing my body lift. I used probably 2ft of 1/2" extensions with a swivel to get to the bolt head from the top and a breaker bar to break it loose. Mine weren't that rusty though so yours might be worse.
Thanks. I'm by myself, I tried a swivel with a impact gun, but the swivel just collapse. I'll try to get somebody to help hold the socket while trying to break it free.
 

86humv

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Texas
Had to notch the body out on two real rusty ones in the past....then less of an angle.
Then an impact swivel, 1" gun a wrench and vise grips on the nut after heating up the nut......came off.
 

kfrosty

New member
267
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0
Location
Belmont, NC
Thanks, I ended up being able to get a 15/16" wrench on the bottom nut and you can get a 1/2" socket on the top one. I got my foot on the bottom wrench and finally broke it loose. Then I turned around and put my feet on the front diff mount and pulled a little at a time. What sucks is you can't turn the wrench enough to flip it over and grip again. So I had to take the oil pressure sensor and one of the oil cooler lines loose from the block and I could use the top socket to turn the entire bolt/nut enough to get a another bite with the bottom wrench. Then I have a 2 ft extension I was able to use with a swivel. Definitely going to put some anti-seize on it when it goes back in.

Thanks for the suggestions!!!
 
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