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Removing fuel tank; what am I doing wrong?

Miscexpense

Member
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Location
Alabama
I am at not sure what I am doing wrong or missed. I followed the guidance from here on dropping the fuel tank to clean. I can't get it to drop free, it's like I have missed a bracket it's so tight. It will drop about three inches on forward, the rear will not budge.
So far I have:
-removed drive shaft
-removed fill pipe
-removed the three metal fuel lines
- unbolted the retaining straps
-I couldn't remove the black plastic tube running to the fill pipe so I cut it and will just replace after I get it out.

I spent 5 hours after I had all the previous steps completed and couldn't get anywhere. I know some of the time was due to frustration but I have followed the other posts on here and am not getting anywhere.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mario

Active member
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Location
Rio Rancho, NM
I am at not sure what I am doing wrong or missed. I followed the guidance from here on dropping the fuel tank to clean. I can't get it to drop free, it's like I have missed a bracket it's so tight. It will drop about three inches on forward, the rear will not budge.
So far I have:
-removed drive shaft
-removed fill pipe
-removed the three metal fuel lines
- unbolted the retaining straps
-I couldn't remove the black plastic tube running to the fill pipe so I cut it and will just replace after I get it out.

I spent 5 hours after I had all the previous steps completed and couldn't get anywhere. I know some of the time was due to frustration but I have followed the other posts on here and am not getting anywhere.
There are few YouTube videos. Have you watched any if them to give you an idea of what's what?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

Miscexpense

Member
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Location
Alabama
I think I have found every video out there on the tank and fuel system. Its almost as if I have something else holding it up I'm not aware of.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Did you disconnect the fuel sender? The device that tells you Full-Empty?

You don't mention it.
 

Milcommoguy

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Removed all the lines and two straps? Maybe stuck with some rotten tar based gunk OR some knuckle head ran a sheet metal screw or two in the tub area and into the tank not knowing whats under there? I remember you had the tub cutout to access the tank?? That's the easiest to work on. Good luck and lets us know what you find.

Time for a bigger hammer,

CAMO
 
Last edited:

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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He's missing that piece remember. that's why he is dropping tank to clean it.
Wow, a real spaced out moment there. LOL.

Call me Captain Obvious.

Captain Obvious.jpg

Can't spell oblivious without obvious.
 

Miscexpense

Member
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6
Location
Alabama
Grrr. Let’s just say I’m glad I’ve grown up and don’t punch walls and throw tools. I’ll post an update later today when I climb back in to it and try some of these.
 

Miscexpense

Member
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0
6
Location
Alabama
Well, I got it out!!!!!!! Wound up being two factors holding it in place. Someone had mounted the red dot ac unit to the bed area and had used self-tapping screws that actually hit the tank. The second issue was the retaining bracket was making it a little too snug and once i removed the screw and bracket she fell right out. LOL that when it got revenge on cursing it for the past day and a half. It actually did fall off my jack, when it did a small hose broke off from its attachment. I looked through the TM's this morning and not sure what to call this part. It's a white plastic art on the metal plate but only drops fuel back in. Would this be a fuel return line fitting? If so what part name do I need to be searching for?
 

Miscexpense

Member
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6
Location
Alabama
The part I was trying to figure out is just the rollover valve. If anyone else is reading this try to drop the tank down a few inches and disconnect the valve carefully. Just watch out, the barb to the valve gets brittle while being stored in the elements. Someone else can chime in on a part that is compatible fit, all I have found are ones ranging from $19-$23

Now to get the d@!n thing to slide back up in place and move on to the glow plugs.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Congrats on the success!

Now is the time to grind back the Red Dot A/C screws.

Make sure you did not crack the tank.

Washout will take 5 minutes. After washout, LET IT DRY! Dry indoors in boiler room.

You will need to bleed system, as mentioned above.

Best,

T
 

Miscexpense

Member
30
0
6
Location
Alabama
Thank you Tobash! I was actually planning on taking the ac out or trying to relocate to a ceiling mount. It's really in the way, being right in the middle of the bed area. Lol I rigged up a CPU fan and put it inside the tank to circulate air, worked like a charm.

I'm going to have to read, read, read on the priming/bleeding. Everyone throwing so much caution has me a little anxious on that task. Especially seeing how Murphy's Law has been very prevalent thus far.
 

papakb

Well-known member
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San Jose, Ca
If the AC holes are small enough you can use screws to seal them. If they can't be sealed with screws you can try plugs but it's a fight because of the low coefficient of friction of the tank material. After fighting a hole in a Dodge Caravan tank I finally gave up and replaces the tank. I couldn't find anything that wants to stick to HDPE and I tried a bunch of stuff!
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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The best way to seal a hole in this stuff is to "weld" it with similar material and heat.

I would buy a new tank if there are holes.

This is not a gull wing Mercedes or Ferrari F40, so swapping in new parts is safer and better.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
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Brentwood, Calif
There is no bleedng required for the fuel tank change out....personally, if I drop an old A0 tank, it’s getting a new A2 tank.
along with all new gaskets, modern sender, tank vent and most importantly, install the fuel tank sender access plate MWO.
this will make everything a breeze on reinstall and and future work...
 
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