Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

[mmeridith]

Don't know how, running 3 jatonka spin ons w/ napa filters (12mic 1st & 6mic 2nd), change every 6 months.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[gimpyrobb]

Think about the age of 5he truck, that could have happened years ago and the "straw that broke the camels back" probably just happened recently.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

For anyone interested I attempted to make a video to show the process as well. My phone is no video camera so I'm sorry for the grainy video. If I can get my hands on an actual video camera I'll gladly redo the video. Until that happens though, this is what I have. I know some people just need to see it in video and not pictures alone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQ3zpGC87PY

 

[FloridaAKM]

Thanks for all of your information over the years on the hydraulic head removal, repair & replacement. I have an 85 M35a2c that was bought from GP as a non runner. After changing out the fuel, batteries & filters, a no start problem is probably deeper in the system. The military seemed to have changed out the in tank pump & other items on that end; but also has done something to the HH injector fuel system as the fuel line dampeners are missing & the fuel lines are marked for removal/ replacement. After digging further into the HH system, I will report back with the results in a few days. Thanks again for the info as to how to do the impossible with solid knowledge of the systems.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

Just trying to help. If you need to remove it make sure to replace the o-rings right away. I have plenty on the shelf if you need a set. Also if you need any advice or guidance while doing the job don't hesitate to reach out to me.

 

[RAYZER]

You can do it Allen!
Might as well have the injectors pop tested while the lines are off,
Must find some injector line dampeners to install or the lines may Crack from vibration.
Good luck!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[FloridaAKM]

James & I went thru it; even removed the HH bolt to get fluid thru there, still no start. I removed the dead motor heater box to allow easier access to the HH removal next weekend. New viton o-rings are on the way, I just don't have a new replacement button or clip if needed, probably don't need them anyway.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

I just got a new shipment of clips and I may have a button here somewhere. Let me know if you need anything.

 

[RollingThunder19]

I recently bought my first deuce that sat for 9 years and while trying to get it started nothing would happen. So I tried to bleed the system of air and saw there was next to no fuel coming out of the fuel lines. I finally dug in and took apart the HH and saw that the retaining clip was bent up and the button looked as if it went through a blender. I saw that the plunger was stuck up and after taping on it to free up the bowtie clip snapped in half. I'm wondering if anyone knows were I can get a bowtie clip, a button and if worse comes to worse a HH.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

I have most, if not all, of the parts in stock and ready to go. I just have to list the bow tie clip again. https://mvpartstore.com/t/fuel-system

 

[RollingThunder19]

I appreciate the info I'll go ahead and take a look at your site and order the parts

 

[NY Tom]

Does anyone have a method for changing the rubber caps that go over the connectors where the fuel lines come into the top of the HH? Looks like you would need to remove the flare sleeves and then the nuts to get them on. Mine are really on there - and not sure where to get new sleeves anyway. Any advice?

 

[Floridianson]

Myself I would not even worry about the rubber dust boots not worth the trouble. Spray some penetrating oil on the line nuts once and awhile and clean with brake fluid and air before you remove the lines if you ever have too. Find something else that's needs fixing more than the rubber dust boots.

 

[NY Tom]

Easy to find something else that needs fixing!

I have the boots, knowing I was doing this job and that they were all cracked. Hadn't considered how to get the old fittings off past the sleeves. Would like to be able to change them now while it's apart.

 

[Floridianson]

I just don't like breaking any injector line if I am not doing IP or injector work. The fittings in the lines do not come off and are special made to spin. I have see where damage was done to a injector line fitting and the OP had to buy a new line. That is why I tell people that the Deuce injector does not need bleeding of air. Seems like the injector side of the line has smaller fitting so it would seem you install the dust boot from that end. I have never replaced the boots so your call.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Well, after a long time procrastinating on getting started with the HH on the 85 Deuce, the head is off to find a broken spring & retainer. New parts are here thanks to Gimpy & Floridianson & tomorrow, they will be installed to see if we can bring back one more Deuce to life.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I just don't like breaking any injector line if I am not doing IP or injector work. The fittings in the lines do not come off and are special made to spin. I have see where damage was done to a injector line fitting and the OP had to buy a new line. That is why I tell people that the Deuce injector does not need bleeding of air. Seems like the injector side of the line has smaller fitting so it would seem you install the dust boot from that end. I have never replaced the boots so your call.

I agree. I'm pretty sure the dust boots were installed before the large nuts and ferruls were put on.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Today was reinstall day with Floridianson for the hydraulic head & associated parts on the '85 Deuce. We got everything back together with no problems in a couple of hours & went to crank the old girl. She would spin over well, but would not fire, even with ether..
The filters were changed & bled; the FDC was bypassed & a new 1/2" fuel line was installed to replace the old one. After the last cranking session, a clamp with two connecting terminals dropped a puddle of lead off the connection (none off the terminal). When that was repaired & the battery charged a bit more again, one more cranking session was attempted while bleeding the lines. That still resulted in a no start situation. That was it for the day as I have no slave cables & the batteries were getting low on charge. I will attempt again tomorrow with a hot set of batteries to see if that makes any difference or not. This truck has not run for at least 18 months, so there may be an issue with sitting up too long, that & it was a non runner out of the Air Force & had been worked on by their mechanics for a while.

 

[marchplumber]

Well that sux! Time well spent. Thanks for the update.

 

[NY Tom]

Let me know what you do to get it started. I removed, cleaned, and installed new o-rings. Put it all back together. Same thing, crank on it a while but no start. I have not tried bleeding anything as a previous post seemed to indicate that is not necessary. I let the fuel pump run for about an hour.

If I am incorrect I appreciate any input from the group as to what bleeding is needed.

Tom