Removing the M1009 rear seatbelt bolts

[kallisti5]

Anyone have any magic woo-woo tricks to remove the rear T50 seatbolt belts in the M1009?
Wanted to apply bedliner to the back-half and they seem "permanent" lol

I've been PB-blastin (top + bottom), heating (bottom nut), beating, PB-blastin (top + bottom), heating (bottom nut), beating for a around a week.
Been through 3 broken T50 sockets. Finally started to get a small creak this evening on one of them, but the T50 slot on one of the bolts just gave up the ghost and snapped off.

Oh.. and already tried impact as well in the mix. Got the most progress out of a wrench and a breaker bar... but I know eventually doing that i'll snap another T50 bit.

Thinking of trying to carve a standard bolt head into the top of the bolt (they're pretty proud)... but these things are damn hard. Started to drill a small hole in the middle but just dulled a few cheap drill bits.


Never had this much trouble on two damn bolts lol.

 

[Barrman]

Welcome to the M1009 world. Those bolts are always a pain. I have gotten to where I will try one once. Then just break out the drill and do an upper body work out.

 

[kallisti5]

Welcome to the M1009 world. Those bolts are always a pain. I have gotten to where I will try one once. Then just break out the drill and do an upper body work out.

Thanks. Drill it is. I'll pick up some new "good" bits and try to drill them out. Man, I hate big Torx. Just use a damn bolt GM

 

[cucvrus]

Piece of CAKE. Propane torch on the bottom side of the inner fender lip and they will come right out. You will drill your arse off on them hardened bolts. T50 and heat will get them every time. They are metric thread if I remember correctly. Good Luck. Get the torch out.

 

[kallisti5]

Piece of CAKE. Propane torch on the bottom side of the inner fender lip and they will come right out. You will drill your arse off on them hardened bolts. T50 and heat will get them every time. They are metric thread if I remember correctly. Good Luck. Get the torch out.

"heating (bottom nut)"

That was my first goto. PB blaster overnight, propane torch on bottom nut for ~1 - 2 minutes. No movement with breaker bar. These Torx bits will only take so much before they snap.

I'll try a bit longer heat on the one not rounded off.

 

[cucvrus]

Heat that nut up good. And use a vise grips. PB Blast and heat will do nothing. Heat burns the PB blast and makes hot fluid drip on you. Use heat and be done with it. Vise grips get stripped bolts out also. If you stripped the T 50 Torx bolt you didn't have it hot enough, seated correctly or you had a cheap import torx. I recommend cleaning the torx pocket out thoroughly. Heat it HOT. Good Luck.

 

[kallisti5]

Heat that nut up good. And use a vise grips. PB Blast and heat will do nothing. Heat burns the PB blast and makes hot fluid drip on you. Use heat and be done with it. Vise grips get stripped bolts out also. If you stripped the T 50 Torx bolt you didn't have it hot enough, seated correctly or you had a cheap import torx. I recommend cleaning the torx pocket out thoroughly. Heat it HOT. Good Luck.

Dammit. You're right too often.
I checked the temp and I was doing around 300-400F. Got er' up to 500-600F+ and it finally broke loose. "If the undercoating isn't on fire, you're not heating it up enough."

I just drilled out the one with the stripped torx... tired of dicking with it lol.

 

[nyoffroad]

Next time you have one with a boogered up Torx just lay a half inch nut on top of the bolt head and Mig weld the inside of the nut to the bolt then while still hot use a 3/4" socket and unscrew. easy peasy!