Removing U joints on M1008

[dodger73]

Removed the rear drive shaft off my M1008 and had some issues with getting the u joints removed. Had a hard time finding info and the info that I did find suggested that I heat them up. Tried that and still didn't work and I remembered that I had the Unit Maintenance manual (TM9-2320-289-20). Followed the military instructions on page 6-10, paragraph 6-5 under Rear Propeller Shaft Repair. Still wasn't easy but it worked. Got them out & got them in. These are not nylon cased. Got my truck with 5000 miles on it. 1st titled owner, came straight from the military. The u joints had about 50,000 miles on them when the one went out today. 31 years old and a SOB to remove. Thought I would share since I had such a hard time finding info on the u joint removal. It was still difficult and a pain but having these instructions helped.

 

[kblazer87]

Something good to remember about the m1008 is that it is a Chevrolet K30 pickup truck. Lots of information available about them on the interwebs.

 

[doghead]

What tools did you use to remove the u-joint from the shaft?

 

[Tinstar]

The tool I use is my truck to drive it to the driveshaft shop.

Did my own on my first car a long time ago.
Never again.

 

[NDT]

I prefer to burn the cross out of the u-joint prior to pressing or beating out the cups. That way you are only fighting one frozen cup at a time.

 

[Patattack]

Fire always makes the job go faster!!!!

 

[86m1028]

I've used fire & hammer in the past, but prefer to use a press on something that needs to be balanced.

 

[Drock]

I've always just used a vise and a couple sockets. One with a smaller O.D. then the cups, and one with a larger I.D. then the cups. Stick them in the vise, (tape them together if you want) and press them out.

 

[fitz]

Like Tintsar said, I used to do them myself, but not anymore.
Dodger73, I see that you are from Boston. I'm on the South Shore. Now I take my driveshafts to South Shore Bearing in Quincy Ma. It will run you about $100 to get 2 new Spicer U joints installed and have the driveshaft balanced. Money well spent.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Why does the driveshaft need balancing? I've had several sets of u-joints replaced and never needed it.

 

[tstone]

I agree with Drock, the only time I've taken a driveshaft into a shop for work is when I have a damaged yoke or shaft and I can't fix it myself. GL was famous for fork-lifting their CUCV's and bending the drive shafts; the only way to fix them was to buy new or repair. When I replace my u-joints I pay a little extra and get the ones with a grease zerk installed; I grease them every other oil change and never have to worry about them failing.

 

[Tinstar]

Why does the driveshaft need balancing? I've had several sets of u-joints replaced and never needed it.

Same reason you have tires balanced when a brand new set is installed.

 

[86m1028]

Why does the driveshaft need balancing? I've had several sets of u-joints replaced and never needed it.

You don't have to but the bearings in the rest of your driveline will appreciate it.

 

[simp5782]

I just go to my local driveline shop. $20 in his pocket and saves me alot of cussing and frustration.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

 

[Hasdrubal]

Having to balance new tires and wheels is a completely different situation. I understood that ; Drive shafts are balanced and generally have small steel weights welded along their surface. Generally, shafts are balanced at a machine shop without the universal joints attached. Unless the shaft has been bent, twisted, crushed, shortened, lengthened or lost it's weights, or has a thick layer of undercoating applied to one side it will remain balanced.

The shop that did mine, only does rear ends, transmissions, transfer cases. They did not recommend this needed doing. When they re-sealed my leaking transfer case, they recommended a number of seals and other parts be replaced, which I did. I would not hesitate to do an operation if it is recommended by someone who knows what they re talking about. No offense intended.

 

[Csm Davis]

Okay I worked in a Spicer trained and approved shop for several years the two best ways to remove a u-joint is to press it out or knock it out with a hammer and vice. The press is cleaner and safer for someone who doesn't do this daily. Don't burn them out! You stand a very good chance of exploding the caps off and they will fly across the biggest shop around and is probably worse than a shotgun slug. I can and have done thousands of u-joints but I will drive to the shop and let them do it every time unless I am stuck some where I can't. It is worth every penny.
As to the balancing of the shafts, not sure why you would without the joints and or yolk. The whole assembly should be balanced as complete as possible,we even greased the joints and slips and yes it will make a difference. It doesn't have to be done every joint change but not a bad idea as I have seen many shaft problems that you don't catch until you mount it in the machine I have mine done every time, which is what, 50-100 thousand miles? Cheap insurance if you ask me.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Tinstar]

Having to balance new tires and wheels is a completely different situation. I understood that ; Drive shafts are balanced and generally have small steel weights welded along their surface. Generally, shafts are balanced at a machine shop without the universal joints attached. Unless the shaft has been bent, twisted, crushed, shortened, lengthened or lost it's weights, or has a thick layer of undercoating applied to one side it will remain balanced.

The shop that did mine, only does rear ends, transmissions, transfer cases. They did not recommend this needed doing. When they re-sealed my leaking transfer case, they recommended a number of seals and other parts be replaced, which I did. I would not hesitate to do an operation if it is recommended by someone who knows what they re talking about. No offense intended.

Your Truck. Your choice.
Me....I will balance each and every time

 

[rustystud]

A driveline that is in good shape with no dents or dings and that has already been balanced does not need to be rebalanced when you change out the 'U' joints. The new 'U' joints themselves are already "balanced" when built. The tire "analogy" does not apply here as tires are "not" balanced themselves but are "balanced" as an assembly with the wheel. Myself as having replaced literally hundreds or more 'U' joints on cars and big trucks (not thousands but I can safely say at least 500 ) I can safely attest to this practice. In fact I have never even heard of a mechanic sending out a driveline to get balanced after having replaced the 'U' joints unless there was a problem with the driveline itself. At the transit agency I worked at we would replace the 'U' joints every time the drive line came off just "because" . We never had those drivelines balanced and never had a problem either. Now if you "damage" the driveline by hammering on it to remove the 'U' joint that is a totally different can of worms. Then you should have the driveline balanced. For those who are planning on removing a number of 'U' joints, I would buy a nice 'U' joint remover-installer tool. They are pretty reasonable in price now.

 

[Tinstar]

I guess it's just my OCD and being in aviation 30 years.
Ive seen where even the smallest vibration can lead to big problems.

You have way more experience in the truck driveline area than I ever will.

 

[royalflush55]

A driveline that is in good shape with no dents or dings and that has already been balanced does not need to be rebalanced when you change out the 'U' joints. The new 'U' joints themselves are already "balanced" when built. The tire "analogy" does not apply here as tires are "not" balanced themselves but are "balanced" as an assembly with the wheel. Myself as having replaced literally hundreds or more 'U' joints on cars and big trucks (not thousands but I can safely say at least 500 ) I can safely attest to this practice. In fact I have never even heard of a mechanic sending out a driveline to get balanced after having replaced the 'U' joints unless there was a problem with the driveline itself. At the transit agency I worked at we would replace the 'U' joints every time the drive line came off just "because" . We never had those drivelines balanced and never had a problem either. Now if you "damage" the driveline by hammering on it to remove the 'U' joint that is a totally different can of worms. Then you should have the driveline balanced. For those who are planning on removing a number of 'U' joints, I would buy a nice 'U' joint remover-installer tool. They are pretty reasonable in price now.

Rusty, What was the operating speed of these transit busses?