Replaced Battery Cable Installed Non GI Battery Clamps Now No Power?

[Coug]

the #6 cable you moved might be part of the issue, but it's not the only possibility. If your ground cable isn't making a good connection to the shunt and then to vehicle ground you can check every positive connection on the truck and still not see voltage.

I haven't seen it yet, but do you have a voltage reading from the shunt copper stud to the positive isolator stud on the side of the battery box? The low voltage at the nato slave receptacle is a good indication your connection is bad somewhere in the battery box, and you said you have 24 volts from the positive stud to battery negative post, so next thing to check is voltage from the shunt to the positive post on the forward battery, should also be 24V. If your vehicle ground to batter connection isn't good then absolutely nothing else on the truck will work right either.

 

[Coug]

Also, if your meter leads are long enough, you can check from the positive stud on the generator back to the negative battery post. If you have good voltage it's almost certainly an issue between the battery negative post and the vehicle ground.

 

[Crapgame]

The buyer stopped by yesterday to test drive it again, and we found the electrical problem by accident. After I had checked the voltage on the starter switch I guess I crossed the two hot Packard connectors. Kevin was under the battery box tracing the sub harness assembly of black nylon mesh sheathed cables, about 4 ea 16ga black wires that enters the battery box from transmission hump, below the STC/IC Shunt, when the starter began cranking the engine by itself.
Apparently, when I moved the red 1/0 cable to the alternator lug over top the shunt and bolted it back onto the insulated Positive anchor point, that somehow I may have rotated the positive anchor point, maybe some aluminum oxide build up was causing some voltage loss, or wear on that 4 wire sub bundle to the starter to the engine developed some kind of short. You can see the sub harness assembly going through the large rubber grommet between the shunt and the red marked Alternator cable in the below photo.

So it looks like I should replace the A0 engine harness or at least that sub assembly to the starter then goes under the air horn over top the engine then splits at a T under the transmission cover.

I found this A0 engine harness but it has two wires cut, these you can see in the lower left corner, on a sub bundle with two Packard connectors still remaining, I'm waiting on the metal tag numbers on those two wires.

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[papakb]

Any updates?

 

[Crapgame]

Any updates?

Waiting on seller to give me the tag #s still present on that sub bundle so I can determine just how much needs spliced on and where they go. I'm about ready to just pull the trigger on it, then worry about splicing it when it gets here. I let Kevin drive it around about an hour after we found the problem, didn't have any trouble then or running it awhile yesterday.