Replacement Gauge Cluster?

[txtriathlete]

Hi all. I'm wanting to replace the stock "dummy light" gauge cluster on my M1009 with something a bit more informative. I've looked through some of the aftermarket C/K parts sites but haven't found a clean swap for the 1009 dash. I don't need anything super fancy just oil pressure and maybe oil temp, H2O temp. Mine is still 24V (until the starter goes) so I would keep the military voltmeter for now. Glow plug light, 4WD light. I'm not opposed to spending for an aftermarket unit if that's the way to go. I'm pretty handy and can cut/splice harness to reroute signal wires as needed. Any recommendations?

 

[Barrman]

I have a very good review of the Dakota Digital gauge cluster in my 12 volt Cowdog Suburban. I have Autometer gauges in my 12/24 volt 6.2 powered M715.

I have a 12 volt gauge and a CUCV 24 volt gauge in the M715. So you can run all 12 volt gauges with the 12/24 system. Some custom wiring will be required though.

 

[txtriathlete]

Isn't the cluster- minus the 24v gauge - all 12v in the CUCV? Would an aftermarket unit from LMC or similar work? I know there would be a fair amount of wire splicing to get it all hooked up since it doesn't seem they offer a diesel specific version that I have found. Do any of the dash units have the diesel wait (glow plug) light or would that be a separate indicator like the 24v voltmeter?

I've looked around a bit at different vendors but haven't found a "plug and play" solution for the diesel squarebody.

 

[Barrman]

I’m not trying to push the Dakota Digital dash. But, it is what I have and know so that is what I will write about.

Yes, the CUCV gauge cluster is 12 volt. Dakota Digital has their own oil psi and coolant temp sensors and wires. Voltage is taken from the supplied power. The tach which they will make in a 0-4,000 rpm range if you ask needs their converter which plugs into the STE/ICE terminal on the number 1 alternator. They also have a speedometer mechanical to digital adaptor which screws onto the transfer case. The blinker and high beam wires get plugged into their master box. As does the 4x4 light and parking brake light. I didn’t mess with the brake warning light or low coolant light on mine.

The CUCV wait light and water in fuel light are part of the gauge cluster cover and stay the same. So does the 24 volt voltmeter already on the truck.

The tach and wait light along with the rpm range are the only thing different fro diesel from gas. All 3 can be made to work.

 

[txtriathlete]

So I think I've found a gauge cluster set (Glowshift) that will allow me to do what I want at a reasonable cost. Wait light, 4WD, H2O in Fuel, parking brake, etc. can all be located as small indicator lights next to the 24V gauge on the vent block off plate or down on the lower left vent block off plate. If/when the 24v starter takes a dump (and I switch over to 12V) I just have to replace that upper block off plate to eliminate the 24V gauge and redrill the dummy light holes in the new plate.

The glowshift kit uses dedicated leads for all their gauges, I think I can use the factory harness wires for the stuff not included in their set for those lights.

Does anyone know of a pigtail that connects to the factory dash harness connector? I really don't want to cut the harness if I don't have to. I'd like to keep it as unmolested as possible.

I saw the pre-printed dash circuit card layout picture in one of the stickys, but it only identified a couple of the wire leads into the connector. Is there a full breakdown of wires somewhere or do I need to walk back through the circuit card to find what wire feeds which indicator?

Thanks in advance!

 

[chevymike]

There is no pigtail for the factory harness. You'll have to cut the plug and wire up what you need. My Speedhut gauges all have their own dedicated wiring so the factory wiring was for turn signals, 4WD, low coolant, etc. I got a plug setup from Amazon that allowed me to hook up these factory lights but still make the cluster removable.

 

[txtriathlete]

There is no pigtail for the factory harness. You'll have to cut the plug and wire up what you need. My Speedhut gauges all have their own dedicated wiring so the factory wiring was for turn signals, 4WD, low coolant, etc. I got a plug setup from Amazon that allowed me to hook up these factory lights but still make the cluster removable.

Thanks. This is what I'm thinking I'm going to do also. Looking at the install video, it looks like the new Glowshift gauge set installs over the factory gauge rear cover. I should be able to retain turn signals and hi beam indicator in their stock locations. Wait light, low coolant, 4WD and H2O in fuel will need to be relocated and rewired.

 

[chevymike]

This is what I did for my M1010, since it had the panel for the stock 24v voltage gauge (which once I convert over to 12v, I will replace that gauge with a trans temp gauge). My speedo has indicators for turn signals and high beam, so I didn't have to deal with those from the factory dash stuff.

 

[Sharecropper]

Why not leave the OEM cluster alone and simply add the other gauges as stand-alone instruments in a separate under-dash or on-dash cluster? Much more simpler and cheaper. And then you would have gauges AND idiot lights. That's what I did and I wouldn't have it any other way. Just saying...........

 

[nyoffroad]

Why not leave the OEM cluster alone and simply add the other gauges as stand-alone instruments in a separate under-dash or on-dash cluster? Much more simpler and cheaper. And then you would have gauges AND idiot lights. That's what I did and I wouldn't have it any other way. Just saying...........

Ahh, the K.I.S.S principle. Keep It Simple Silly! Work smarter, not harder!

 

[Adrok]

Ahh, the K.I.S.S principle. Keep It Simple Silly! Work smarter, not harder!

I'm a big fan of this principle. Replace / Add what you want and need.

Dakota Digital is pretty easy to work with and adapt the parts for 12 / 24 systems. Some allow calibration and adjustment ( SPEEDO )
I am NOT a specialist or expert. Just my experience.

HDX-2024: Universal 6 Gauge Round, Analog HDX Instruments

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.

www.dakotadigital.com

Cheers

 

[txtriathlete]

Why not leave the OEM cluster alone and simply add the other gauges as stand-alone instruments in a separate under-dash or on-dash cluster? Much more simpler and cheaper. And then you would have gauges AND idiot lights. That's what I did and I wouldn't have it any other way. Just saying...........

Because I'm trying to clean it up and streamline it and make it more useful. Just tacking more stuff on will add clutter to the dash area since I already have a switch bank where the radio would mount (radio is mounted in the console).

 

[txtriathlete]

View attachment 921518

Where did you get the labels? Did you make those? That's my sticking point just now - I can get little indicator lights but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about labels yet.

 

[Sharecropper]

Just tacking more stuff on will add clutter

Well, I happen to like to tack on more stuff and add a bunch of clutter

 

[txtriathlete]

Well, I happen to like to tack on more stuff and add a bunch of clutter

View attachment 921633View attachment 921634

That is both overwhelming and really nicely done! I think I would be terribly distracted trying to drive with all that going on.

 

[chevymike]

Where did you get the labels? Did you make those? That's my sticking point just now - I can get little indicator lights but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about labels yet.

Those are indicator light made by K4 Switches. They were really popular in the offroad/Baja bug world. Here is a link to one vendor (the pic is the same, so you have to read what the description is)

K4 Switches - VW Dune Buggy - Dan's Performance Parts

Shop Now for K4 Switches & Electrical Accessories for your VW Dune Buggy, Baja, Manx, Street and Drag Performance Cars, Hot Rods or Vintage and VW Classic Air Cooled Beetle.

dansperformanceparts.com

 

[ballencd]

Is that an A/C system you have in your CUCV? If so, how does it work and who made it?

 

[Sharecropper]

Is that an A/C system you have in your CUCV? If so, how does it work and who made it?

The A/C system is by Vintage Air. But you will need to figure out how to mount the compressor onto your engine. You can read my write-up here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2224882

 

[ballencd]

Thanks, very nice write up and lots of good info. I have a M1010 and plan on using the factory compressor mount for the cabin via either a chevy A/C from a donar vehicle or a vintage air. The VA looks nice. Do you like it and how it works? For the back I am going to pull the factory a/c and go with a 115V ac window unit in the same location or an RV style 24 V dc unit. I have a long way to go.