Replacement trans cooler line o-rings?

[Awesomeness]

One of my transmission cooler lines started leaking like a faucet today. Before I take it off (and really get myself up the creek), is there anything special about the o-rings that seal these? I have an SAE and metric o-ring kit - think there will be a replacement in there? Or are these special material/size/shape/etc.?

Also, anybody have a guess how much fluid is going to drain out from that upper line? Gotta get some buckets!

Thanks!

(Picture is from passenger side, looking forward from behind the gas tank)

 

[Suprman]

I might have some lines lying around that I took off something. Can look. Its a pain to get a wrench in there. I use a big crows foot.

 

[Awesomeness]

Do the lines themselves typically fail (e.g. split or wear through), or does the o-ring just go? This is a stead run of ATF out of the compression nut, like if you turn on the faucet to drip and then just turn it up little by little until it runs a stead 1/8" diameter stream.

I'm stuck in a parking lot now, and just trying to figure out my next move.

 

[Suprman]

I have not had one leak or broken line but there was a thread before it had happened. Looks like a flare fitting. I dont remember an O ring. This line has been sitting outside for some time.

 

[Awesomeness]

Item 30 in that manual page screenshot I posted lists a "pre-formed packing". I couldn't find anything in a google search for the part number.

 

[Suprman]

I would first see if somehow it loosened up. If not I would try to get it off and inspect around the flare for cracks. I think this is something that a road service truck may be able to address. If the line is damaged at the end, maybe it could be cut back a bit and re-flared and a small adapter from homedepot or plumbing supply to take up the extra space.

 

[Awesomeness]

It's not loose. I already checked that. I tightened it maybe 1/8 of a turn, and I think the leak might have gotten worse.

 

[Suprman]

I would remove and inspect then. All the ones I have taken off have been on super tight though. I would not have been able to tighten any of the ones I have taken off. It takes alot of force to get them off. Crows foot on breaker bar with pipe on end. If you moved it then its loose.

 

[Awesomeness]

Ok, will do. I'm catching a ride home now to get some overalls, tools, and supplies. How much fluid is going to drain out when I remove that line? Like 10 gallons?

 

[Suprman]

Not too much actually. Couple quarts if the truck is sitting flat. A crows foot will make your life alot easier.

 

[Awesomeness]

Thanks, I will see if I can find a 1.5" (or 38mm) crows foot nearby. I'm not sure where would have one that big.

 

[Suprman]

Mine is inch and a half just looked. Sometimes Harbor Freight has that stuff. Grab some generic O rings maybe an O ring in there will at least temporarily cure it. I have taken apart several trucks. It takes all my strength and then some to get those loose with the breaker bar and a an extension on the breaker bar. If you were able to move yours at all thats not right. It should be on there ridiculously tight. But I would loosen it all the way and inspect before I tighten it down.

 

[Floridianson]

I have an SAE and metric o-ring kit - think there will be a replacement in there?

I will say no as I have a good Hyd. kit to and they were not in there.

 

[tennmogger]

That "o-ring" looks more like a face seal. If so, the seal will be tapered to fit the fitting and will be harder so it won't extrude into the tube. An o-ring could just as easily squish into the tube when you tighten the nut and then you would have a loose o-ring, or parts of one, headed for the transmission. Not a good idea?

If there's no o-ring groove, then it's not made for an o-ring. Any good hydraulic shop should be able to fix you up.

Bob

 

[Suprman]

So how did it work out?

 

[Floridianson]

I hope you get it fixed. On mine it was on the lines that connected to the cooler I dropped and it was very thin like a paper clip thin. Yes a good Hyd. shop should be able to help you.

 

[Awesomeness]

Last night I took the leaking end off. There did appear to be an o-ring groove in the face of the male flare (the 90° adapter that goes into the transmission), though there was not one in it, and I didn't pull out any pieces or anything. I put an o-ring in it, that seemed to fit. I felt around the flare on the tube, and with my fingernail, and couldn't find any obvious cracks/deformities/etc. I put it back together as tight as I could, and it was like I didn't do a thing... still leaking an 1/8" steady pour.

I'll go back tomorrow morning and take the whole tube out, where I can see it better.

 

[Suprman]

Gotta be a crack at the end of that metal line. I dont think it allows for enough flex. I have seen some trucks with those lines replaced with soft lines.

 

[Floridianson]

Gotta be a crack at the end of that metal line. I dont think it allows for enough flex. I have seen some trucks with those lines replaced with soft lines.

I think that is the way to go.

 

[Awesomeness]

I got the line disconnected at both ends, and yes, there is a tiny crack where the flared cone meets the straight tube.

I have played a lot of Tetris, and there appears to be no way to get the line out of the truck without cutting it in half, removing the front drive shaft, or removing the frame crossmember. I don't yet own a TigerTool, to pull the front shaft u-joint, and don't know where I could get one locally. I will probably go try to have a replacement soft line made, and install it before cutting the original.

PLEASE HELP: If you have one of these lines, or a transmission with the fittings, could someone please measure the thread or tell me what the fitting is? Using the "ghetto caliper" on my Crescent wrench, the tube seems to be either 1" or 25mm OD. Knowing if the threads are metric or imperial would be a big help.

Also, while the rear joint did not have an o-ring, the front one did! I compared it to the o-rings in my metric and SAE o-ring kits, and it appears to be 7/8" ID with a 1/16" cross section. According to my Parker O-Ring Handbook, that should be an 020 (assuming it's imperial standard). It's burnt-orange in color.