Replacement trans cooler line o-rings?

[Suprman]

I can try to measure the tube I pictured tommorrow. Its at work. I can cut a piece off and fedex it to you. You can cut your line and mate the two with high pressure line and a few hose clamps on each side.

 

[Awesomeness]

I can try to measure the tube I pictured tommorrow. Its at work. I can cut a piece off and fedex it to you. You can cut your line and mate the two with high pressure line and a few hose clamps on each side.

That's a good point. I could just cut it and mate it back with rubber line and hose clamps.

Thanks for the offer to send it, but I don't think I need that. At least not yet. Just knowing if the threads are english or metric will probably solve most of the problem. I imagine if someone has a set of thread pitch gauges, you can at least determine if it's a standard english or metric thread pitch, and not the other. Thanks!

 

[Suprman]

Im not good at measuring threads sorry. If you tell me how to do it I can try.

 

[Awesomeness]

Im not good at measuring threads sorry. If you tell me how to do it I can try.

The best way to measure threads is using a tool called a thread pitch gauge. They are like a set of feeler gauges, but with little "saw blades", each with a different thread. You hold them up to the threads, and only one will fit. Even the difference between close english and metric threads will be very obvious (across several threads). Just for your own troubleshooting knowledge, the poor man's version is to hold bolts up to one another until you find threads that mesh perfectly.




If you don't have a set of these, don't worry about it. I'm just hoping someone will. I'm going to see if there is anywhere I can buy some right now locally (doubt it, but worth a shot). Measuring them by hand, such as with a caliper, is very difficult because you can have close imeprial/metric threads that don't really show a difference unless you can compare across several threads. Just think of how you thread in an incorrect bolt... you can get it in a turn or two fine, then it binds up and becomes very obvious that it's not correct.

 

[Suprman]

Use a tubing cutter to take a few inches off with the cracked end on it. Take to a hyd line shop have them make a line with the correct fitting that you can get over the original metal tube and clamp down. Might need metal tube in the old line to keep it from crushing down.

 

[Awesomeness]

Use a tubing cutter to take a few inches off with the cracked end on it. Take to a hyd line shop have them make a line with the correct fitting that you can get over the original metal tube and clamp down. Might need metal tube in the old line to keep it from crushing down.

I'll do that first thing in the morning.

 

[rocket990]

I got the line disconnected at both ends, and yes, there is a tiny crack where the flared cone meets the straight tube.

I have played a lot of Tetris, and there appears to be no way to get the line out of the truck without cutting it in half, removing the front drive shaft, or removing the frame crossmember. I don't yet own a TigerTool, to pull the front shaft u-joint, and don't know where I could get one locally. I will probably go try to have a replacement soft line made, and install it before cutting the original.

PLEASE HELP: If you have one of these lines, or a transmission with the fittings, could someone please measure the thread or tell me what the fitting is? Using the "ghetto caliper" on my Crescent wrench, the tube seems to be either 1" or 25mm OD. Knowing if the threads are metric or imperial would be a big help.

Also, while the rear joint did not have an o-ring, the front one did! I compared it to the o-rings in my metric and SAE o-ring kits, and it appears to be 7/8" ID with a 1/16" cross section. According to my Parker O-Ring Handbook, that should be an 020 (assuming it's imperial standard). It's burnt-orange in color.

View attachment 692682View attachment 692686

I live in Cheyenne and have the tool for the u-joints. PM me if need to use it.

 

[coachgeo]

Allison Mechanic that helped me suggested replacing the whole line with a flexible one. Price was reasonable. Just cut it in half or thirds..... remove whole thing and get a flex one made and be done with it.

 

[Awesomeness]

I had a flexible line made at the Parker Store. Cost $140. If you want one, the Parker part number 471TC-06-06-16-16-12-76 will allow them to recreate you the driver's side line. The last two digits, 76, indicate that it is a 76" long line. So if you want a passenger side line too, I measured it to be about 66", so just adjust the number (take note that the original passenger side line has the oil sampling port in the middle, and obviously this one will not). The part number does not include the anti-abrasion sleeve, or the clamps for it, but the invoice in the picture shows those line items.

You need the 020 viton o-rings for the joints.

The real puzzle is that after replacing the line, I poured in 5 quarts of ATF, and the dipstick now reads full. There is a visible trail, even days later, of about a drip of ATF per inch on the road, for literal miles. I don't understand how so much leaking only dropped the fluid so little.

 

[Suprman]

Glad you are back on the road.

 

[Awesomeness]

I happened to see some flexible LMTV transmission lines on eBay the other day. It is worth noting that the pictures show the tubing is marked as 1-1/8" ID.