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Replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's

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I am wanting to change my stock incandescent bulbs in my marker lights on my M923A2 over to all LED bulbs without having to buy a whole new light LED housing...as I have read I can do.

Can someone please refer me to which LED bulbs I can use to replace the stock incandescent bulbs with?
 

aheilmann68

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1156 get amber and reds. Get the flat looking ones, the long ones barely fit under the marking light cover. They do not work terribly well as turn signals on the trucks but in my trailers they work fine.
 

Swamp Donkey

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Make sure they are 24V.

Look at which way the LEDs face and the orientation of your bulb in the fixture. A bunch of side facing LEDs where you need forward facing is going to give poor results, for example. Just remember LEDs are very directional, so pick a bulb based on your needs.

Don't get caught up in quantity of LEDs per bulb. Make sure you get ones with SMD LEDs. The LEDs described as being 5050 will be the brighter ones. This is a description of the diodes themselves.

I though I replied to your PM but apparently I only did so in my head, lol.
 

infidel got me

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Not to hijack the thread, but my understanding was that led's were universal between 12 & 24 volt ?

Am I wrong ---- not trying to be a smart a##, I really don't know. I add led bulbs to my trailer and

didn't notice if they were 12 or 24 volt.
 

Swamp Donkey

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Most LEDs lights, assemblies and bulbs, are still voltage specific. Multi-volt is becoming more common but LEDs in the civilian world are still mainly 12V. If you run an LED light at 24V that was only designed for 12V it won't last long.

Case in point below:

IMG_20150405_115704_886.jpg

When I first decided to upgrade my side markers I bought some of the ones in the picture for the ease of installation, mounting was the same and already came with shell connectors. The first one started flickering after an hour of use. After about 6 hours of use I had 2 that were dead, 1 that flickered, and 2 that worked intermittently. The seller thought they were 24V but they were actually 12V. Those particular style lights were made by Grote and actually did come in both voltages but he only knew about the 24V ones so he made an assumption.

LEDs are very robust when compared to other lighting. They are still electronics though, and are sensitive to anything outside their range of operation.

Oldworldtenacity: The lens and housing for the markers is small. I wouldn't get bulbs with a lot of highpowered LEDs because they will build up too much heat. Heat is the other killer of LEDs.
 
185
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Location
Charleston,WV
Make sure they are 24V.

Look at which way the LEDs face and the orientation of your bulb in the fixture. A bunch of side facing LEDs where you need forward facing is going to give poor results, for example. Just remember LEDs are very directional, so pick a bulb based on your needs.

Don't get caught up in quantity of LEDs per bulb. Make sure you get ones with SMD LEDs. The LEDs described as being 5050 will be the brighter ones. This is a description of the diodes themselves.

I though I replied to your PM but apparently I only did so in my head, lol.
No big deal, there has been a couple times where I think you or me both are not getting each others pm's. I know I have been throwing a lot of questions here lately to the point of where I am having a hard time keeping up with I have asked about and have not lol.

You pointing out the fact that LED's are very directional is something I really wasn't thinking about and I will make sure that I get forward facing ones.
 

doghead

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Do the side marker lights use a large bulb such as the 1156, or is it the smaller 97 or 67 size?
 

swbradley1

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I know this bulb is has a lot of diodes...maybe to many for heat issues and is more of a 360 degree type setup...plus they are pricy.

What is the general consensus on these type LED bulbs?


https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...d-bulb-single-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/163/
I bought a set of those for my front turn signals on my Dodge only to find out those miracle design engineers made that brilliant box under the hood that distributes powers to everything only wok with incandescent. Without re-programming the box when I hit the left the right bulb came one, when hitting the right they both flashed.

Take a perfect setup, a piece of wire to a light bulb and instead run it through a box the "distributes" the power to said bulb instead. Oh yeah and if the box ever goes bad charge $700-900 for it. Brilliant. Brilliant load of crap.
 
185
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Location
Charleston,WV
I bought a set of those for my front turn signals on my Dodge only to find out those miracle design engineers made that brilliant box under the hood that distributes powers to everything only wok with incandescent. Without re-programming the box when I hit the left the right bulb came one, when hitting the right they both flashed.

Take a perfect setup, a piece of wire to a light bulb and instead run it through a box the "distributes" the power to said bulb instead. Oh yeah and if the box ever goes bad charge $700-900 for it. Brilliant. Brilliant load of crap.
Yeah, that would be very frustrating indeed. That's why I am only going to replace the bulbs in the 6 side marker lights on the truck and eventually replace the front park lights and rear tail lights with complete new LED light housings from Grote or Trucklite.
 

doghead

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Only one person said which bulb in this thread so far.
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

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Yep, they usually have the smaller bulbs in the marker lights (same size as a 67 or 97). The larger bulbs (like an 1156) will fit under the lenses though, I just checked.
 

jbayer

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I used these LED bulbs to replace the top two bulbs in each of my Deuce light assy's.
"Gold Stars 11568301-06 LED Replacement Bulb 1003 / 1141 / 1156 Base 120 LUMS 12V or 24V Natural White "
6 sets of LED Replacement light bulb for bulbs with BA15S T25 base, popularly known as 1156 or 1141 base 8-30 volts DC including 12v and 24v; the wide-range voltage is designed to withstand RV power fluctuations
60,000 hours life expectancy
Low heat, safe to touch, and instantly bright
Energy efficient and eco-friendly"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSGBARW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The #623, and the #1683.
composite light break down.jpg
 
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swbradley1

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I just replaced the headlights and tail light assemblies with LED lights last night on my M813. Holy cow! What a difference. My neighbor stopped by and watched as I changed the tail light and when I tested it I didn't need anyone back there to tell if it was working. :)

Now if I had not broken three of the Packard connectors on the pass side I would have both done. :-(

I have LED for the front turns as well.


I have wondered what kind of bulbs to use to just replace the bulbs in the original assemblies though. Much cheaper that way and they have to better than the crappy incandescent ones.
 

Gunzy

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Yeah, that would be very frustrating indeed. That's why I am only going to replace the bulbs in the 6 side marker lights on the truck and eventually replace the front park lights and rear tail lights with complete new LED light housings from Grote or Trucklite.
I am not sure you can get and LED equivelant of the small bulb in the side markers, then again I have been wrong before.
 

Swamp Donkey

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I don't have the factory marker lights to look at anymore so I can't verify the size. If it is a smaller bulb than an 1156 then (9) 5050 LEDs is probably going to be about your limit to allow for heat dissipation, although I think that will be overkill.

Incandescent bulb numbers tell you a couple of things; base style, base size, bulb size and bulb wattage. For example a 194 and 168 look exactly the same but are different brightnesses due to different wattages.

LED bulbs don't have a standard number system like incandescent bulbs yet. Sellers try to compare them to incandescent bulbs by using one of their numbers to show where they will fit but it really doesn't tell you much about the bulb itself. It just tells you what the base is.

Basically when looking for LED bulbs you need to know the size and style of the base. So using our example, a 194 or 168 bulb uses a Wedge base. You then need to know the voltage. Then you need to look at the housing and judge the amount of room you have and decide how much light you need from that fixture. You need to see where the LEDs need to face to actually work with the fixture since LEDs are directional. This is where it gets complicated..

Bulb designers have no limits so there isn't a set of standards you can go by. Basically you're just guessing. Higher powered LEDs require less of LEDs, but create more heat. Lower powered LEDs create less heat, but require more LEDs. Then you got to measure to make sure they aren't too long or too wide. There are manufactures that have so many LEDs on there bulbs that they won't even fit through the hole for the base...crazy right? This leads me to quality...

Good luck with quality. They all come from the same place. Some will last years and some won't work right out of the box. Keep your fingers crossed on warranty.

I know some have done this conversion and it has worked for them. It's all just guessing though since there isn't a standardized system in place, or a quality standard.

I'd suggest to go with an LED assembly that was designed as such...keyword: design. Most LED bulb upgrade bulbs have no design other then making more and more LEDs fit through a little hole.

I've got a couple hundred dollars of various shape and size LED upgrade bulbs in my tool box right now from before I got my 5 ton. I've been through more than a couple hundred dollars worth over the last couple of years on DOA units, to big for the fixture units, units that run too hot for the fixture, units that last a few weeks, etc. I bought some fog light LED bulbs at $32 from a reputable seller that lasted about an hour. They looked good in the picture and in my hand but when disassembled I found the heat sink for the diodes was in no way attached. They soldered it to the base and not the circuit board or diodes. I say reputable because he did warranty them...with the same bulbs, with the same problem, lol.

I'll add that the website listed in post #7 has good customer service. I've dealt with them several times before. Their LEDs come from the same place though, and are subject to the same issues.

I offer my experience because I've been down this road with very mixed results. A designed assembly is almost always going to be better than an upgrade bulb in every aspect, except maybe price. Good luck in the hunt.
 
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