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Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and all pertaining to

gringeltaube

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So the whole axle was modified? I have pictures of the trailer he used I just didn’t realize he did more to it.
Nothing to do with the trailer; usually they don't have drive axles.
What you have there is a stock M35 rear axle housing with at least one custom-made axle shaft.
Typically that's what you need for a free wheeling (lock) hub, put on (one side of) the front rear axle, on a stock tandem. A big improvement for when you do a lot of pavement driving.
 
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Dasgog

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Nothing to do with the trailer; usually they don't have drive axles.
What you have there is a stock M35 rear axle housing with at least one custom-made axle shaft.
Typically that's what you need for a free wheeling hub, put on (one side of) the front rear axle, on a stock tandem. A big improvement for when you do a lot of pavement driving.
So what bearing rebuild process would I use? So again it would simply be a flipped hub but a stock
M35. When I look up the kit to repack and seals etc is it just m35 rear hub?
 

Dasgog

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alright I am good with all this then. My final
Question. If probably I noticed gear oil on the wheel dripping out from under hub and then oil splashing out after hub cap came off, is there a change on this style axle being flipped etc that oil got into the brake drum area?
 

gringeltaube

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If the differential was a bit overfilled, or the truck not level, some oil will flow out once you start pulling the axle shaft (splined cap, in this case).
Now, if oil has gotten inside the brake drum, your outer hub seal and/or the (kork)seal in the spindle keyway needs attention...
This can happen regardless of the hub having been flipped or not, or if you still had the stock 1-pc axle shaft or this 2-pc setup.
 

Dasgog

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If the differential was a bit overfilled, or the truck not level, some oil will flow out once you start pulling the axle shaft (splined cap, in this case).
Now, if oil has gotten inside the brake drum, your outer hub seal and/or the (kork)seal in the spindle keyway needs attention...
This can happen regardless of the hub having been flipped or not, or if you still had the stock 1-pc axle shaft or this 2-pc setup.
I guess I was gonna ask if I could go step by step until I found the extend of the leak instead of doing it all but no. I’m gonna dismantle it all and repack and redo it all for the experience.
Awesome! I appreciate everyone’s help.
 

Guyfang

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Nothing wrong there. Usually called 'flipped' hubs, done so singles track better with the fronts.

Unscrew the retainer nuts, after prying up the keeper flange.

They shouldn't be too tight.

Keep a clean towel of pan under when pulling the hub off, as the outer bearing will make a break for the mud/sand.

The inner bearing is held in place by a seal, that being held in place by a large snapring.

You'll have to pound out the seal and bearing with a brass rod.

Clean everything up and inspect.

In many years of flogging tactical's, I've never seen a wheel bearing worn out. Rusted to bits, yes.
Reason being, the Military changes bearings way more often then needed. Preventative Maintenance. An Old Motor Daddy once told me its cheaper to change before they go bad, then to repair when they go bad. Yeah, the only time I ever saw bad bearings was when someone put the bearings back in, and over tightened them. Not long later, you could cook on the hubs!


Good long-fiber grease is the best thing to use, stay away from disc brake (black) grease.

DG
Open to read comments.
 

Dasgog

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I guess I was gonna ask if I could go step by step until I found the extend of the leak instead of doing it all but no. I’m gonna dismantle it all and repack and redo it all for the experience.
Awesome! I appreciate everyone’s help.
well I got it all done. Drove about 5 miles came back and it drove smooth. I see nothing weird at the wheel. It drove pleasantly so I hope all is good. I used gear oil
Seal maker or whatever it’s called, hope I waited long enough for it to seal
 
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