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Replacing steering wheel & Horn wire

kfrosty

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Location
Belmont, NC
I got a new steering wheel. I finally got the old one off. Trying to put the new on on, I found shaft slides up and down and stays down unless you're holding it.

The problem there is really no way to hold it. Thus with the spring in place, you can't get the steering wheel down the shaft far enough to put the nut on.

In desperation, I tried starting the shaft up and holding it there with the wire that connects to the horn. I finally got the nut barely started and then of course the horn wire came unhooked.

Towards the base of the steering housing, there is a cover with a wire plugged into the outside. I took all the screws out hoping that was where the horn cable connected. But it looks like a small magnet and no connector that matches what's on the end of the horn wire.

So, any tips on getting the steering wheel mounted with the spring? Basically how to hold up the shaft while pushing the wheel on far enough to start the nut.

Any ideas on how to hook up the horn wire back up? I'm trying to find something in the TM but no luck so far.

Thanks
 

shakey

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Bellevue Nebraska
follow the shaft to the front of the tire. You will find a metal cover and a movable steering yoke. Place a small board between the flange and box. You will be able to push the steering column rearward and up into the cab.
 

KaiserM109

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I went through exactly the same thing and wound up getting a pull-out column because of some bad bearings in my old one. There are two ball bearings, one at each end, between the housing and the solid center shaft. SEE MY INSTRUCTIONS IN http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-Column-Maintenance&highlight=steering+wheel/ because if you screw it up, you will dent or crack the bearing race. It is hardened very hard and very thin, therefore very fragile.

The reason it looked like I needed a new wire was because the slip ring, which that little button under the can contacts, had come loose and slid down the tube. It was only taped in place with old cloth tape. I wrapped part of the slip ring with a couple turns of wire where it wouldn't get in the way of the brush to keep it from slipping.

I'll try to find pictures.

Second Message:
Sorry, no worthwhile pictures, my bad.
 
Last edited:

kfrosty

New member
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Location
Belmont, NC
Thanks for the info. I'm not quite clear on some of it. I've taken some pictures of what I have apart.
I took this off at the base of the steering shaft inside. You can see the hole at the top


M923Horn3.jpg
I think the above is the Horn Contact Brush and cover. Are you saying there is a slip ring inside the steering shaft which this wire connects to?

923Horn2.jpg

That's the wire (25) that came loose and I pulled out the top of the steering shaft.

M923HornCover.jpg

The part I'm not connecting, even if you take the steering gear jacket, is how to connect a wire inside solid tube??

The only thing I can come up with is they connect the wire to a slip ring or whatever it's called. Then drop it down the Steering shaft, probably use something to prod it along.

But thinking about it, if that were the case, then the wire would have probably never held the shaft up to start with.

It would be nice to know if that piece inside the shaft moves up and down from the top to the bottom, it seems a parts grabber could be used to go in and fish it out, connect the wire and drop it back down in?
 

sed6

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OKC, OK
Check out my post.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...heel-Install&p=1872363&viewfull=1#post1872363

You just need to support the steering column. I used a 24" pipe and a small bottle jack braced from the front suspension up to the joint in the steering column to provide slight upward pressure when you put the wheel into place. The spring isn't compressed until the nut is tightened. Oh, and clean the splines in the shaft, that helps too.
 

KaiserM109

New member
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Location
SE Aurora, CO
Okay, I think I understand what you have. You may be in for a replacement of the column, like I was.

The wire (25) goes down the column and is supposed to be fastened to the center shaft. You are going to have to take the whole column out to fix this. You apparently have the wheel off, or you wouldn't have gotten to that wire. Disconnect the 'U' joint just forward of the firewall and the two bolts on the bracket at the bottom of the dashboard. It should all come out easily from there.

I'm a bit fuzzy on what happens to that wire at the top of the whole mess. It must go through the center shaft somehow, but I didn't think about taking pictures of that part. There is a 'C' clip at the bottom end that you will need to take off.

Wire brush off about 1/4 inch the ends of the outside tube. You will see that there is a bearing housing pressed in to it and these are what you need to get out. They originally were not terribly tight, but age and rust may be giving you a problem. DO NOT put a shaft or something inside and try to knock them out from the inside. You will be banging on the hardened bearing races which will crack, requiring a complete replacement.

Somewhere where you will catch small parts falling out, knock the bearing housing out. Use a chisel or punch. I could not get a purchase on it the bearing housing, so I took a hacksaw (an angle grinder with a thin cutoff blade will work, if you are careful) and cut a notch in only the outer housing. One side was sufficient for me, but you might want to do it on both sides.

If everything is still intact, you will have a bearing assembly on each end with 2 races. If you have gotten this far successfully (not broken anything) you might consider greasing the bearings. There is a very weak snap ring holding it all together. TAKE a picture of it for us to see, but mostly to remind you how it goes back together. I didn't and I had a heck of a time figuring it out. CAUTION: there are 21 tiny bearings loose that will fall out when you open it up. You can figure out the rest on the bearings. I use white lithium grease on tiny parts like this if they are not likely to be subjected to heat.

Toward the lower end there will be a brass slip ring with a tab that your wire #25 connects to. On mine, both the old on and the replacement, it was held in place by cloth electric tape. On my old one the tape had dried up and let the ring slide down and out of place. I used vinyl tape and insulated the ring from the shaft. Then I taped the ring in place with vinyl tape and, because I intend to keep the truck a while, I put a couple of wraps if thin, soft iron wire around it where it would not interfere with the brush and twisted it tight. There's a bit of room between the shaft and the housing for the not on the wire.

Put wire #25 back in place (where ever that is, I don't remember). This wire connects the slip ring to the button in the steering wheel. Put the top bearing back on the shaft and tap it into the housing. Put the bottom bearing on the shaft and tap it into place. Put the 'C' clip back on. Put the wheel on and the horn button in place. If you have succeeded, you can test it with an ohm meter. There should be no continuity between the slip ring and the housing until you press the button. Putting the column back in the truck is the easiest part.

Before you hook it all up, you should test the horn solenoid. It is at the base of the horns and has two wires connecting to it. On my truck, it was burned out, probably because the brush would be grounded when the slip ring fell off and the horn solenoid would be activated continuously.

Take the wires off, paying attention to which one goes where (probably doesn't matter, but just do it). Putting the ohm meter on a low setting, there should be continuity between the connectors on the solenoid. If yes, you're good to proceed. If no, do another test. Get air pressure up, at least 75 lb. Using a volt meter, figure out which of the two wires you disconnected is hot (24 volts) to ground and reconnect it. By connecting the other socket to ground, the horns should blow. If your ears aren't ringing now, you need a new solenoid.

From this point, just put things back the way they should have been when you started. GOOD LUCK and please take pictures.
 

kfrosty

New member
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Location
Belmont, NC
Ok, I got everything off and it wasn't that bad. Basically, take the bottom shaft off going to the steering box and then the other mounts and pull the steering gear housing up from the cab. On the bottom, there is a circle clip, that was the biggest pain to get off an back on.

Once the clip was off the shaft slid through the housing towards the steering wheel side. There is a brass ring with a wire connector. I'm not sure it's called a slip ring as it doesn't turn. Actually there is a nylon screw that fastens it to the shaft. The horn wire, goes through the center of the steering shaft and there is a hole above the brass ring type connector. I took some dental floss and tied it to a carter key and dropped it through the hole through the shaft. Then I tied it to the connector on the horn wire and fished it through.

Then put the shaft back through the housing. I haven't had time to get the housing and everything back into the truck.

Here are some pictures of what the wire connects to.


HornWire.jpg

5TonHorn.jpg
 

kfrosty

New member
267
5
0
Location
Belmont, NC
Does anybody know where you can find the spring that goes under the steering wheel inside the housing, around the shaft. It's the one that steering wheel compresses onto, not the spring under the horn button.
 

KaiserM109

New member
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Location
SE Aurora, CO
Looks like you are on the way. My slip ring didn't have the screw, or even a hole where it might have been. Yours must be a later model than mine. Mine is a '66.
If your bearings feel good, don't open them up. Even though it doesn't move on the shaft, it is called a "slip ring" in the electrical world. I think later model deuce steering columns are the same. I'm missing the spring on my '66 deuce, too, but the top looks different than my 5 ton.
 
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