Return line check valve

[blzrgb]

Yesterday I took off and cleaned the fuel return check valve on one of my 1008's and it didn't have the glass bead at all. The check valve was a white plastic deal with an internal spring with rubber seals on both sides of the valve. My other 1008 has the valve with the glass bead. What gives ? Has anyone else noticed this or could mine be a replacement part from somewhere?

 

[mistaken1]

Haven't some people advocated breaking them out if they cannot be cleaned?

I assume that someone may have broken it out.

Is a replacement part available?

 

[CUCV85]

Someone will chime in with a replacement part number and location.
I cleaned mine carefully with break cleaner and a small nail,
I do believe however that my Return Line Check Valve was replaced with a steel setup when the Entire Injection Pump was rebuilt.
So my guess would be to contact a IP rebuild shop for a part number or purchase from them. They are suppose to replace that part during a Rebuild...

 

[blzrgb]

It did make the truck start and run better after I cleaned it. When it's clogged up does it cause pressure in the rubber return lines ?

 

[CUCV85]

Haven't some people advocated breaking them out if they cannot be cleaned?

I assume that someone may have broken it out.

Is a replacement part available?

If you have to clean it out because of the plastic washer degrading in the IP you wont get far until its plugged again thats why guys knock the check ball out to begin with.

Is it a good idea to knock the check ball out?
I would think it serves some purpose...
Maybe to hold pressure, keep prime?
Heck if it's "a good idea to knock out the glass ball in the check valve"
we should all do it???

 

[bigtruck]

My temporay resolution until i can replace the seals & flex ring (the flex ring is what is most likely what is deteriorating and plugging your check valve) was the following---

1) bought another check valve (~15 dollars at a stanadyne shop)
2) knocked the glass ball out of the old check valve to create a straight-thu fitting
3) Put the straight thru fitting back it it's original location, then ran fuel line into a small fuel filter, then installed the functional check valve down stream of the filter (this required a custom nipple fitting to make the connection to the check valve)

End result-- working check valve with no plugging,, and no contaminants making it to the injectors or back to the fuel tank....

I'll let ya know how my pump rebuild goes... I have to admit,, the pump schematic is a bit intimidating

 

[jdemaris]

Yesterday I took off and cleaned the fuel return check valve on one of my 1008's and it didn't have the glass bead at all. The check valve was a white plastic deal with an internal spring with rubber seals on both sides of the valve. My other 1008 has the valve with the glass bead. What gives ? Has anyone else noticed this or could mine be a replacement part from somewhere?

It is NOT just a one-way check valve. It is also the housing pressure regulator. It should only be broken out in emergency situations so you can drive the rig. They virtually last forever unless the pump has an internal failure and debris gets into it. All the pumps built up to 1985 had a plastic vibration dampener that tended to fall apart and plug that valve.

Also, the valve was updated once to improve starting and do a better job to prevent fuel drain-back. The fuel pump was updated at the same time.

I buy those valves aftermarket for $4 each. I always install a new one whenever I rebuild an injection pump.

The GM part # was (or is) 10149645 US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas sells cheap to anyone and has the valve under the OEM Stanadyne # and also the aftermarket Spaco #.