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Personally I think both are a little overkill. I try to make things I do stronger then what it should be and I feel it is with what I used. I used 3/4 heavy wall square tubing. Huge difference between heavy wall and normal. I used 20 gauge sheet metal for the roof as It is very strong but you are still able to bend it around a bit. I don't have many sheet metal tools like rollers and box break so being able to manage the metal is huge for me. Most roof skins on vehicles are 20 with the rare occasion of 18. I was able to screw the pieces on and hand bend them into shape to weld. So for me 20 is the best all around. If you have access to a roller or similar products you cant really go wrong with 18. Same with the 1 inch tubing, for me the 3/4 worked well, but if you can afford thicker materials and have the tools to work with it you might as well. Although I did have about 400 pounds standing on the middle of my roof testing the framework and it hardly flexed haha! I would not go less then 20 on the roof. Your choice would be fine but I feel you'd be able to save some weight and money and still be perfectly stout, but either way that roof should be strong for you.
Glad to help! I have had zero help through this whole project also. I had a little bit of input but that's really about it. Self tappers are the way to go. Also invest in some clamps. Makes a big difference. Seam sealer is like caulking. We use about 8 different kinds but I will recommend three for you to try. I will say upfront they are expensive but you get what you pay for with sealer. The first would be the 3m sausage tube.Pic is below. It is thin and always stays flexible. We use a solvent from crest called Acry Solv. to smooth it out. You can use a mild cleaner for urethane products to do the same thing. I only use this over a primed surface and it must dry over night. Next is another crest product called black jack. Its self leveling and fairly hard. Dual mix (two tubes connected) cartridge. Drys and is paint able in half an hour. Last would be SEM single tube seam sealer. Can't find a pic of it but I can get the part number if you want. It is a one part, just squeeze it out with a caulking gun. It can be painted over instantly, wont be hard so don't mess with it. It can also be applied over bare metal. For seams you will see or things you want to smooth we use 3m. Semi visible seams we use SEM as it is not as thin but can be smoothed or brushed. For quick fixes Black Jack. On this project I have mostly used SEM and probably will use it for pretty much the whole thing. You can put a whole bunch over the roof seam and brush it out to seal it up really well. You can also get roof sealant from an RV shop but it doesn't last as long as a good sealer that is painted over. Sorry for the long winded reply haha!
Hey biggins-
Hey, where talking about Washington State Ferries here. I barely trust them with just me aboard let alone my deuce !!! Now if we where talking about British Columbia Ferries that would be a different story. Why can't Washington have some ferries like those ?
That's gonna be a long drive around the Sound, then. Bring your earplugs. And probably pack a lunch.
Have a pretty similar repair on the right side as well. I also finished up the filler panels on both sides between the doors.
