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Right Bedside Replacement Panel - My Experience

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Got you. I am tearing into an M1009 soon. I need a drivers side 1/4 panel section for Terminus M1009. I want to get rid of the 1/4" steel patch some welded on. I have some experimenting to do with auto body adhesive. I will whiz that flange out. I will post pictures. PM with required area size. Like 2" around entire thing? I have a few scrap M1009's that will never see life again.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
They are all about the same. Just use what ever you can get at this point. Clean the area really well and cut any rusty material out. Treat the cleaned areas and weld/glue the replacement panels in place. I use what ever brand ROC is selling these days. No American made cab corners or rocker panels out there anymore. unless you cut them from a donor cab. And I have done that already also. I still have a few cabs I cut sections out of. Good Luck. Less the $100. will get you both outer/inner rockers and cab corners.
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
Panel Bonding Adhesive

... I have some experimenting to do with auto body adhesive. ...
I have had great luck with adhesives for non-structural areas. For structural repairs most manufacturers recommend a mix of welding in some areas along with the adhesive. Since I weld, that is what I do for rockers, interiors on cab corners etc. Door skins and exterior cab corners etc you cannot beat the time saving and low distortion of the adhesives. Also does a MUCH better job than seam sealer at keeping crud out of overlapped joints when applied properly, significantly reducing rust repairs in the future.

Use one of the quality brands, follow the directions, invest in an appropriate dispenser and you really cannot go wrong.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,276
9,609
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Cab Corners and Rocker panels are just cosmetic items on a CUCV. They are just outer skins that were added to RUST and make a finished edge to the door frame. If you get into the pinch weld area where the seal fits then you are going to need to weld. That GM cab corner is a poor design. Designed to RUST out. They even left a hole in the cab so the cab corner could fill with dirt. And they hoped that plastic or salt would get in there. I don't ever bother welding the cab corners on anymore. The heat burns paint where I can't get to it to replace and starts the rust cycle all over at an accelerated bare metal pace. And burnt metal is always the easiest to get rusted. Screws and glue and some Rage body filler and you are golden. The less filler you use the better you are. Rust never sleeps and after 30+ years if has a giant head start in places you never even know exist.
 
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