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Roof drips water.

patracy

patracy

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We're not looking for anyone's home address. But at least a state would be nice to know. (Actually I DON'T want to know everyone's address) The main reason behind the rule is to allow people to find people near them that might be able to physically assist at times.

Also I ask for a state/location now because when I approve EVERY account that gets registered, I look up their IP to confirm their IP location matches up with their listed location. The scammers/spammers typically use VPNs or will blatantly lie about their location, so I reject them from the start.

The reason for the "singled out" here is because the user has been asked more than once to update their location to which they've ignored. And on a update, I sent them a message with a exact link on how/where to update it at.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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patracy said:
We're not looking for anyone's home address. But at least a state would be nice to know. (Actually I DON'T want to know everyone's address) The main reason behind the rule is to allow people to find people near them that might be able to physically assist at times.

Also I ask for a state/location now because when I approve EVERY account that gets registered, I look up their IP to confirm their IP location matches up with their listed location. The scammers/spammers typically use VPNs or will blatantly lie about their location, so I reject them from the start.

The reason for the "singled out" here is because the user has been asked more than once to update their location to which they've ignored. And on a update, I sent them a message with a exact link on how/where to update it at.
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I get that.

It was a misunderstanding on my part. I thought you guys were onto Ned for not having a city listed. I was curious why you were not asking the same of Spanky.

I'm squared away now.

btw: I'm pretty sure it's possible make it a required field in the membership form that DragonBytes uses
 
patracy

patracy

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We're getting very deep in the weeds here. But DragonByte is not the forum software, XenForo is. There's NO way I'd install a 3rd party add on that involves user registration. I'm actually anti-add-on due to security reasons. There's only 18 add ons here. Only 5 of them are even user facing/useable. (Feedback, tagging members in posts, see who voted, tapatalk, and sticky threads) The rest are just really for back-end automation/notification.

I could use the list I've created for the classifieds. But that would only allow people to place their state. Then consider this is a global website, there's plenty of non US based members here. Trying to keep track of every country name, and subset regions, would be a monumental task to even try to implement, let alone maintain.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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spankybear said:
And now back to your regularly leaking cab lights... So what's a good fix?
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Take the lights off, scrape off the old gaskets, make or purchase new gaskets. reinstall lights.

The last ones I found for sale were surplus and laughably about as much as the lights. I never checked with TruckLite.

I'd make them. Just need a sheet of thin, pliable rubber that's weather resistant. Trace and cut.

The OEM material is just a very thin closed cell foam that has a "felt" feel to it. Easy to work with but tears pretty easily.

20221214_141448.jpg

In a pinch, you can glob some silicon around the light and seal it. Taking the light off and drawing a bead, then resealing the light should hold up just fine I would suspect.
 
T

TomTime

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I had a water leak in the cab. Found out it was from the front ID and clearance lights.

I don't know if you have ever taken the front ID or clearance lights off, but there is a good chance that you will find that the screws have serious rust...or...maybe it's just my truck?

I replaced all of my marker, ID and clearance lights with LED' s. The marker light screws were rusted but came out okay after soaking. The front ID and clearance lights not so much. Several of the screwheads were so rusted that there was nothing left for the screwdriver to grab onto. Even after soaking the screws/rivet-nuts with PB Blaster and WD40 for several days. Numerous screws were so rusted to the rivet nuts that the heads had to be drilled out just to get the light off. The remaining part of the screw would just twist the rivet nut in place and they had to be drilled out.

A couple of the light casings had hairline cracks in them and the foam gaskets were flat and lost it's, for the lack of a better word I can think of now, it's sponginess. The ground wires and screws on the lights were very corroded.

I replaced the rivet nuts that were drilled out and replaced all of the marker, ID and clearance light screws with stainless steel.

IMG_4475.jpeg

After the lights were replaced, no more leaks.

Good luck.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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T

TomTime

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Third From Texas said:
This is what I'd use (1/16" closed cell rubber):

www.homedepot.com

Rubber-Cal Closed Cell Sponge Rubber Neoprene 1/16 in. x 39 in. x 78 in. Black Foam Rubber Sheet 02-128-0062 - The Home Depot

Procure stylish opulence to your home with this uniquely designed Rubber-Cal Closed Cell Sponge Rubber Neoprene 1/ Black Foam Rubber Sheet.
www.homedepot.com
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The gaskets that came with the new marker/ID/clearance lights were about 3/16" thick. Which was good especially up with the ID and clearance lights were the roof curves and the light casings are flat.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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TomTime said:
The gaskets that came with the new marker/ID/clearance lights were about 3/16" thick. Which was good especially up with the ID and clearance lights were the roof curves and the light casings are flat.
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Yeah, I just mic'ed the OEM one I pictured above. It's 7/64 and even that feels pretty thin. They sell the material in a number of sizes (even at HomeDepot).

It's a flat surface-to-flat surface seal so it won't take a lot, but 3/16 would be a closer to OEM.

www.homedepot.com

Rubber-Cal Closed Cell Sponge Rubber Blend 3/16 in. x 39 in. x 78 in. Black Foam Rubber Sheet 02-127-0187 - The Home Depot

These closed cell rubber sponge sheets are made from a combination of neoprene and SBR (styrene butadiene rubber). Sponge rubber is also referred to as cellular or foam rubber. It takes these names because
www.homedepot.com

My point being, it's pretty simple and inexpensive to make them opposed to paying $20 ea for a tiny piece of foam rubber from a vendor (especially when you have a crap ton of markers like on an M1079).
 
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spankybear

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I bought one of them decal/poster board cutters. One of the things I want to make is gaskets! I have installed LED lights on the cab with the foam rubber gaskets... and they leak... Maybe i'll try a thinker gasket as soon as I figure out the cutter.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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spankybear said:
I bought one of them decal/poster board cutters. One of the things I want to make is gaskets! I have installed LED lights on the cab with the foam rubber gaskets... and they leak... Maybe i'll try a thinker gasket as soon as I figure out the cutter.
Click to expand...
.
Need to know what kind of file you need to "feed" your cutter with. Guessing that it connects to a PC maybe? Lots of things like that will "eat" DXF files. If that is so, there are a lot of different programs that can create that file type.

If you need something to test with, let somebody know and I'm sure one of us could create something or pull out a previous something and send it to you to test with. Just need to know a material size so what you get will fit your machine.
 
spankybear

spankybear

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Mullaney said:
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Need to know what kind of file you need to "feed" your cutter with. Guessing that it connects to a PC maybe? Lots of things like that will "eat" DXF files. If that is so, there are a lot of different programs that can create that file type.

If you need something to test with, let somebody know and I'm sure one of us could create something or pull out a previous something and send it to you to test with. Just need to know a material size so what you get will fit your machine.
Click to expand...
For something simple like a gasket I am planing on using a a vector graphic editor like Inkscape. The cutter can use a DXF file but I have more (albeit little) experience making .SVG files. Something like a casket I really don't need a CAD program...

As for size it is a small crafting machine. 12"x12" is standard and can do 12"x24" This is plenty big enough for what I am planing. The max thickness is 2.4mm or about 3/32". I can use contact cement to something like the to glue together to make the gasket thicker.
 
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