Rough idle, now dead

[paladin1176]

Ok, so the basics out first.

1984 Blazer with the 6.2l, 135k on the odometer. Complete 12v conversion, spin on filter mod, fuel pressure indicator, and the rest is bone stock. 1 year ago I had Badger Diesel rebuild all 8 injectors and the IP. I also replaced all 8 of the glow plugs with brand new.

So I warmed her up this weekend and pulled out of my neighborhood. She fired up and warmed up normally and without issue. Once I pulled onto the main road and tried to accelerate I lost all power and found that I had a massive cloud of blue smoke coming out both pipes. I turned around and limped her home without any other issues. She idled a bit rough, but ran. After she cooled off, she won't start again. I can get her to turn over, I can get the "Stutter Start", but not enough to fire over. I checked air in the lines, fuel pressure, glow plugs, and block heater and all appear to be functioning like normal. Last thing on my list would be a dead Injector Pump...which would SUCK.

Any other ideas before I get my butt chewed by my wife for getting another rebuilt IP?

Thanks
Moose

 

[paladin1176]

Oh yeah, I also replaced the lift pump and connecting rubber lines last year.

 

[dependable]

Sounds like the timing may have gone off somehow. Timing chain skip, stripped woodruff key? Has never happened to me, but it is something to check before you get another IP.

 

[the skull]

Check the return fitting in the top of the pump, mine had
similar symptoms. It was plugged pretty good. Compressed
air and brake cleaner are your friends

 

[njjeeper]

Are you getting the "click" from the top of the pump when you turn on the key? If the pump is new(and still working) the shut off solenoid is where I would look. First check for 12v with key on. Then remove and reattach the wire and listen for the click. It should sound loud and clear. If its not, that's your issue. My 1010 died a from a bad solenoid. Ran rough, then stopped altogether. In my case the solenoid would open and then close almost right away when power was applied. So I would hear the click which made troubleshooting it suck. I didn't figure out the issue till I took it apart and watched it move...

 

[paladin1176]

I will check that tonight. Didnt think about return because it seemed like fuel delivery wasnt an issue. Not sure about jumping timing though. There was no real stress on the motor and not other indicators that i jacked aomething up.

 

[paladin1176]

So here is what I found. I pulled the return line off the IP and it was barely a drip of fuel. Pulled it off the hard return lines and the lines look empty. Even after cranking it the return lines stay empty. I am waiting on a friend to bring his multimeter to make sure the IP is getting 12v to the pink wire...but why would my lines be empty? I have the yellow return lines that I have used to replace most everything that goes bad and I can see fuel in them, so I am not sure where the blockage would be.

 

[paladin1176]

Took some other troubleshooting advice and pulled the pink wire, turned the key on and listed while I plugged the wire back in. Not a really satisfying click. As a matter of fact, I don't think i really heard much at all. How loud should the shutoff solenoid be, or would I be able to feel it through the housing as it activates?

 

[dependable]

You should be able to hear a click, sounds like shut off solenoid may be the problem. They are not too hard to replace, just be sure not to let any dirt get into IP.

 

[paladin1176]

Ya...sorta figured it would end up being the IP somewhere. Anybody have a part number off hand?

 

[cucvrus]

Just be very careful. Last month I changed a pump for a friend that snapped off 2 of 10/24 5/16"drive screws that hold the cover on. That steel screw to aluminum pump housing liked being together so much that the screw heads popped off. That was not to bad but we returned the pump to Dieselcare for rebuild. That is about $300 US for everything. I never seen one of the solenoids on the pump go bad. But I haven't seen everything yet. Or have I?

 

[dependable]

I never seen one of the solenoids on the pump go bad. But I haven't seen everything yet. Or have I?

I have, but only once. Fortunately the one in a core I had kicking around was still good.

 

[cucvrus]

Help. Please I am looking for a repair of the CUCV fast idle motor, solenoid. Mine is ready to take off in the morning when I start it. 2 K rpm. Does hole shots in the driveway. I know it was covered but I can not find it. Also I only have a 34 manual.

 

[dependable]

If you can't adjust it, just remove the solenoid. The truck will run fine without it, you just loose the cold start fast idle at warm up. Might look for problem with throttle return spring.

 

[cucvrus]

OK after no reply other then adjust and remove the solenoid. I did some investigating. Since I put a injection pump from a HMMWV and this was a CUCV that I was putting it on. I had to use my pump cover and I just removed it and put it on the new HMMWV injection pump. I removed the solenoid and all and just put it on the new pump. Well it seems that the contact / strike point of the fast idle rod on the new pump is closer then it was on the OEM pump. So I sprayed it down and cleaned it all up and just adjusted the screw on the solenoid. That was easy. I cold started it and it seems to be fine now. The only issue I have is it sounds like the cold advance is engaged at all times. I have the HMMWV nozzles installed and it still makes a loud clattering sound when you accelerate. I don't know. I may send the other pump out for rebuild. I am not wanting to damage the engine for the sake of a new injection pump. But this truck runs better now then it ever did. Anyone have any ideas. Maybe something inside the pump is stuck on advance. Just thinking out loud.

 

[dependable]

The cold advance specs for that IP may be different. Just unhook the cold start advance from the IP, same circuit as the solenoid. Like the solenoid, the truck will run fine without the advance circuit connected.

If this does not solve your problem, perhaps you need to adjust timing of the new IP.

 

[cucvrus]

I was at the diesel shop and the man adjusted the timing back both ways. It smoked and stumbled one way and idle fine the other way. But when I drove it and it lacked power. This way (line on line) it has quick acceleration and idles smoothly. It is the sound that concerns be. It is a real head turner at intersections. It runs like a gas motor and has quick acceleration and the sound ceases about 1/2 way through the power band. And it (the sound) comes each time you change throttle potions just for a moment. I added a qt of atf and some marvel mystery oil to the fuel at at the advise of a friend. Any ideas?

 

[dependable]

Just guessing at this point. Maybe get the numbers off the IP and check what motor it is speced for, is it for a 6.2? If I recall, someone posted an application chart for the DB2 IP, (there were dozens of variations )or call a good rebuilder. Otherwise, timing chain or something?

 

[cucvrus]

I just came from the injection pump shop it is fixed. N/C repair. The lever on the right side if the pump has an allen screw that pushing in on a plunger on the bottom of the pump. We removed the lever and screwed the allen screw in 2 full turns and reattached the lever to the pump. Took it for a ride, it is sweet and powerful. No smoking and no clanking sound. It is like new and shifts perfect. Wow what a difference. That HMMWV pump is the hot ticket on the CUCV M1009. I picked up a couple more and will be putting one on my Mule when I do the head gaskets in a couple weeks. The only down fall was I had the pump I removed redone and it will be ready for pickup on Friday. Oh well. I will shelf it and keep it for some other lucky truck someday. The man at the pump shop gave me some time and some labor so I look at it a learning experience and 2 pumps for the price of one. Because I was just going to take the HMMWV pump off and use it for a core. Glad I went to him. I will pay a little more and get the pumps done locally going forward. Thank you.