Run away M35 engine, need help

[Lonesome715]

I just bought a 1967 M35A2. it presented the same symptoms my 87 M35 had some time back. The plunger on the IP was stuck. On my 87 I pulled the cam out, dissembled it, cleaned it, reinstalled it, and now it is fine. So I did the same to the 67 I just bought today only with a different outcome. The truck sat for at least two years without being touched. Because the batteries were dead we pulled started it. once it started it ran away. I had to pull the kill cable at the IP to get it to stop. After that we could not pull start t again. though it sounded like it wanted to start. Why did this happen? What should I do to try and fix it?

 

[Katavic918]

I know there's a button on the hydraulic head that pops off if the truck isn't driven for a long time. This will cause a runaway. I don't know enough about the specifics to get into the details but maybe someone who does will chime in.

 

[Katavic918]

On second thought. I think it will cause a no start.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The runaway is most likely what caused the button to fall off. Time to pull the hyd head.

 

[Floridianson]

The fuel control was stuck in the full fuel position when you pushed the shut down cable in and went for the start so when the motor fired up it stayed stuck and did not return to the 4 o clock position or idle. You got lucky that the shut down cable was able to pull it back to shut down and the fuel control was not glued on full fuel. Take off the shut down cover and see where the fuel control is pointing. The fuel control should move free from the 7 o clock to 4 o clock position and when the motor is not running it should be at the 7 o clock position. Do not start the motor again till the fuel control is free and correct.
Lets just take one step at a time and check the fuel control before we go for the button. Just because it got away from you and you had to pull the shut down does not mean the button fell off.

 

[Lonesome715]

I think that is the problem as well. I may have stuck it back together in the wrong position. I was a bit rushed and not at my shop when i tackled this problem. I was trying to get it running enough to get it home. I am only home every other Saturday because of the training schedule I am on. I will have to try this again when I am home next time.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea now the fuel control might be stuck in shut down position and she won't start till your get it corrected and free.

 

[Lonesome715]

I have dug around every where. Either I am rolling past it, or it is just not easy to find. Is there a diagram or photographs some where about how it should be installed? I am digging through yet another TM now and having no luck.

 

[wheelspinner]

I have dug around every where. Either I am rolling past it, or it is just not easy to find. Is there a diagram or photographs some where about how it should be installed? I am digging through yet another TM now and having no luck.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?143476-How-to-remove-the-Fuel-Shutoff-Rod-on-the-IP

Maybe this?

 

[Lonesome715]

Outstanding, thank you.

 

[Floridianson]

I am thinking you got it together ok just that it is binding when you tighten up the two screws that hold in the fuel control. If it was not in right you would not have been able to shut her down.

 

[Lonesome715]

How do I prevent the screws from binding?

 

[Floridianson]

It's not the screws but the plate that they hold down. If the control assembly was free and not binding when you installed it then my guess wrong O ring or equal torque on both screws to prevent cocking of the plate.

 

[Lonesome715]

I see what you mean. I will address that then.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You can't actually tighten the screws down. Just snug them down a hair at a time until the lever binds, then back off a touch. This is why they have to be safety wired.

 

[Lonesome715]

Thanks, that clarified a lot. I guess I got lucky the first time I did this. Now it has to be redone correctly.