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Running Lamps and Flasher

Bulldog1986

New member
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Location
Auburn, AL
Sorry if there is another post where these issues have been answered.

When running the service lights, the front amber markers do not come on. The bulbs look ok but like they have seen better days. The terminal on the passenger side is new while the driver's side is dated. The blackout lights work. Any suggestions on what might be causing this?

The directional signal on the steering column seems to be in good working order. When I move the arm, the green light comes on but stays solid. I don't know if this is standard. The flasher looks fairly new and the ground on top of it is tight. One of the wires (coming from the signal) is not exposed but the casing is gone, exposing the braided material. Could this have caused the flasher to short? Is it likely that the flasher is toasted?

Any help anyone can offer would be great. Thanks.

Scott
 

Chevytruck

Active member
1,579
2
38
Location
Western Maine
Is the wiring ok?

try unplugging the front ones from the flasher and jump the wires and see if they light up?

if they do you may have to replace the flasher.

if they dont light up you might have a short somewhere or something is ungrounded

or it could be both

those are my ideas. sorry if i'm wrong :oops:
 

kendelrio

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Alexandria, La
By service lights, do you mean with the headlights on? If so, your marker lights aren't supposed to come on.
 

Steinmeister

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Nolanville, Texas
I agree with Bob H, if the lower left switch is in "Marker" the amber lights will be on.
The green non flashing light on the signal arm means no flasher operation, but does not necessarily mean the flasher is toast. Could be that, to a bad ground anywhere in the system, including the flasher box to ground.
 

jim-m35a2

New member
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Location
Michigan
ya as with all old cars ..back in the day ur front marker lights did not run with ur headlights..it was either or.idk what year they changed this for safety
I think GM did the change in 1968. They also added lights on the front and rear fenders. The older cars, if you pulled the light switch half way out the marker lights came on and if you pulled it all the way out the marker lights went out and the headlights came on.

Jim
________
Mary jane
 
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Lex_Ordo

Member
539
5
18
Location
Long Island, NY
On the light switch, the first position to the right is your service stop lights.
It allows the brake lights to illuminate, and the turn signals to flash. If you place rhe signal arm to the top, and pull out the tab under the arm and move it up again, it will engage the four way flashers. Did you try this?

When the light switch is placed all the way to the right, it engages the headlights.
If you move the dimmer switch from Off, to marker, it shuts the headlights off, and only illuminates the markers, as well as puts your dash guage lights on dim. As soon as you turn the dimmer to any other position, it will shut off the marker lights and re-engage the headlights.

When in the two left B/out modes, none of the marker lights work. Just the dimmer for inside, and the b/out marker / b/out stop / and b/out headlight.
 

MikeON

Member
134
12
18
Location
Lucinda PA
My deuce originally would not allow the headlights and front parking lights on at the same time, regardless of switch position. There were some threads on this about a year ago.

One PA inspection station said they had to be on together, and another said otherwise. I decided to make the mod for safety.

I jumped circuit 21 to circuit 491 as described in another thread, and it works just fine. I pulled the plug off the back of the 3-lever switch and pulled it down to get at it. The pin identification letters are on the inside of the plug, to show which wire is which. L and H are the two you want. I soldered a short jumper between these two circuits a few inches away from the plug.

Mike
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,165
70
48
Location
Louisville, KY
Bulb numbers

The marker lights are the same bulb number for front and rear as are the turn signal / brake light bulbs.

The smaller bulb is a 623 and the larger bulb is a 1683.
These are "Industry Standard" numbers.

Attached is a one page PDF from Wagner.
If you were to go to an aviation supply house you would order a MS15570-623 for the smaller bulb and MS35478-1683 for the larger bulb.
Although not "military correct", I use the 623 bulb in my blackout sockets in these same lights for two reasons. They are a little brighter and I'm not taking my truck into combat and it is a good place to store a spare bulb in case once burns out. You simply pop the lens off, replace the bulb, and keep on down the road.

GE and Sylvania are similar although the S-word is taboo around my place.
They seem to last about three days and burn out.
If you go to NAPA and tell them you want a 1683 or a 623 bulb they will get it for you to just by giving them those numbers.
Jim :-D

PS: Go to TM9-2320-361-20P figure 53 and it shows the bulbs. If you do not have this manual go to the Resources Section here on S.S. and down load it.
 

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sixfeathers

Banned
68
0
0
Location
Baltimore/Maryland
My deuce originally would not allow the headlights and front parking lights on at the same time, regardless of switch position. There were some threads on this about a year ago.

One PA inspection station said they had to be on together, and another said otherwise. I decided to make the mod for safety.

I jumped circuit 21 to circuit 491 as described in another thread, and it works just fine. I pulled the plug off the back of the 3-lever switch and pulled it down to get at it. The pin identification letters are on the inside of the plug, to show which wire is which. L and H are the two you want. I soldered a short jumper between these two circuits a few inches away from the plug.

can you take a pic of mod.. I would like to do same to mine..

thanks.
 
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