Running oil in a Deuce?

[mattg2448]

I think yes!

Today i finished my filter setup, a 50 gallon tank, with a 5 micron Hydraulic filter, and its gavity fed.. 3 gallons of oil and 8 gallons of diesel i got from a fellow scrap yard.. Boy can you tell a difference, quieter, runs smoother, no power loss and my wallet is the same weight!

I have 55 gallons of oil and 50 gallons of fuel to go through.. I say take these diesel prices and SHOVE IT!


And before i get a ""

I will get some pictures within the next couple days..

Happy day!

 

[Bob H]

What about a water separater?
Eventually will do a simular setup gravity feed, 5 micron filter.
Haven't decided on the method of water removal/control yet.

Then comes figuring out how to pay the road tax on the homebrew.

 

[mattg2448]

Well, it was hydraulic fluid straight from a machine we scrapped, and i didn't really figure on the separation yet, but I plan on rebuilding it soon because of the slow flow rate.. So i will find a way.

 

['48Chevy6]

Congratulations on entering the wonderful world of WMO. I just filled up last night; sitting on $200 worth of fuel for $30 invested. You will never want to go to the diesel pump again.

Zach

 

[jatonka]

I am trying to get started on "Black Diesel " here in NY state. I plan on filtering to 2 microns and water separate and cut with 20% home heating oil. Question is, will it work right? I have always burnt diesel and never had any troubles, but, I can't afford any more shows and parades at $4.25 per gallon for diesel. JT out

 

[Armorsolutions]

I run almost straight used ATF in mine all summer. In the winter , I run about 20 gallons diesel, 20 gallons of used atf and about 5 gallons of gas with a couple quarts clean motor oil just for good measure!
I just use settling barrels and pump off the top. Installed jatonkas spin ons before i started running alternatives and havent had a problem.

 

[randini]

How often do you change the spin-on filters? Have you noticed a difference in the frequency of filter changes? I am here is Salt lake, Hi neighbor!

 

[panshark]

my 2 cents says #014 viton O-ring for yer manifold heater injector nozzle. The buna-n O-ring thats standard in the fuel nozzle may disintegrate eventually with your alternative fuels mix.

You don't have to replace it, but having a 25 cent replacement piece on hand is worth it--when switching fuels causes a certain o-ring to have a high rate of failure.

You'll know you need to replace said O-ring if fuel starts to drip or puke onto the top of your turbo.

 

[jerseyjeep2003]

I started filtering WMO through 100 & 5 micron filters respectfully, last month. Worked my way up to 75% WMO,20% diesel & 5% gasoline for some fire and dilution. Ran pretty good, quieter, but thinking I will change my fuel filters soon, just to be safe. Last weekend (thanx to my B'day present from wifey) I now have a brand new PAbiodiesel centrifuge setup. I spunn out 50 gallons and did a 90% WMO and 9% diesel and 1% gasoline. Took the General out wheeling for the day Saturday, he ran good, slightly more "blue" smoke but ran fine. Although I just noticed a new oil leak (don't think it is related) around the slobber tube/turbo, probably need to reclamp the tube. WMO is the way to go.

 

[panshark]

jersey jeep, reference my post, you need to replace an O-ring in the near future! Good luck, it's a super easy fix. It will take 5-10 minutes.

 

[Armorsolutions]

Jersy,
Leaked exactly there and replaced a couple months ago with viton... You are a wise man! Haha

 

[Armorsolutions]

Exceuse, panshark... Pardon my error

 

[exbrown]

Working on a centrifuge so I can run oil in my diesel. Just got to send in my paperwork for a Fuel Blenders License.

 

[randini]

Hey Panshark, can you remove the end piece of the heater injector, on the engine? Or do I have to remove it? I am sure I can remove the retain ring, but not sure if the end cap (with the O-ring) can be removed on the truck.
Thanks

Randy

 

[panshark]

It can be removed on the truck, there's 2 springs and another internal part inside of there, the springs do not put much pressure (if any) on that end piece while you're taking it off. since the o-ring is compromised, it makes it a bit easier to slide the end cap off.

My approach was to take the whole assembly off, and then mess with it, but as long as you don't launch the snap ring you should be ok.

 

[jerseyjeep2003]

jersey jeep, reference my post, you need to replace an O-ring in the near future! Good luck, it's a super easy fix. It will take 5-10 minutes.

Is the "O" ring at the top where the slobber tube meets the housing?

 

[jerseyjeep2003]

Nevermind, just saw the last post....thanx, gonna try it this weekend. Any idea on the size of the "O" ring?

 

[panshark]

Reference my first post

 

[randini]

Ok, here is my thought. If I release the Lock-ring, can I start the engine to push the end cap off? Of course i would have a catch device, to catch all parts. Thoughts?

 

[panshark]

you're messin with Murphy on that one. What I would do first is maybe hit the accessory switch to have the in-tank pump charge the system, see if that pressure forces it out. If not, have soldier B bump the heater switch. After that, maybe look at forcing it off under engine power.

I'm not as familiar with the system as many, many other members, maybe someone will pipe up and say whether you need to bump the switch to pressurize the injector.

Safety first!