Rust! Am I done for?

[Skinny]

I would like to know what people do to keep the inside welds from rusting out in near future.

Simple, garage your rig for 6 months out of the year or move out of Massachusetts. The second option will also lessen your tax burden and give you back your god given rights

No matter what you do, the calcium slurry and rock salt New England uses destroys everything. If you want to keep it, get it off the road or demote it to winter beater status. As much as I love my Cuck, I refuse to take a perfectly mint M1031 and run it through the winter unless I have a heated garage to wash it down. Even then it will get a good half gallon of WD40 as preventative measure.

Seriously, your only option for a year round rig is screw the EPA and tree huggers, coat that thing with oil!

 

[dependable]

I agree with you on some points. Used to drive a sand/salt truck on contract for mass highway, know about road treatments. Have many trucks for any season. Anyway, am referring to rust on inside of two wall panels and sections.

The steel is old, already started to rust and then add heat of weld. Rust often occurs from within in areas adjacent to weld. Know there are rust limiting procedures. Wondering procedure and tools to spay good rust block like chassis saver , bill hearsh rust, por 15(or some other great product I do not know about) into inside structures.

I have noticed that some CUCV pickups have plugs in rocker panels, and other two wall places in cab wher rust preventive was injected.. Clearly this was an attempt at rust prevention. Not sure when this was done, but seems like the first wave to get DRMOed ( pre internet auction) did not have the plugs.

 

[zout]

NO reason to get off point for the sake of the OP. Sealing the weld can be done by 2K bare metal primer and do not put POR on it nor etching primer. This process will outlive almost all of us if done right.

The OP can fix this and run and have fun with his CUCV and be proud of it.

I salute the glass installer to walk away and take the glass and let the OP know he needs a corrective fix to the problem, why call the BBB on him when he is protecting the owner ? Rusting running boards if the windshield leaks - I would think till the OP could fix it with the help he has - he has the FULL option to tarp over the entire truck to protect it from the weather. No less than having a tree fall on your roof of your house and just let the rain keep coming in and crying for help the insurance co should do something - the OWNER has a responsibility and there it lays with him.

He has help how to fix it - he has offers from help to help him weld the repair - it just takes time and till he can handle it - tarp the dang thing over to keep his valued investment protected from weather. The glass co did everything right to walk away - But I would only have paid a service charge to know what I needed to fix because it was not what it was suppose to be - a windshield replacement. I would get the same co back after everything was repaired because this co sounds like they do things the right way.

But eh - what do I know. And only my .02 cents worth.

 

[dependable]

How do you seal the weld on inside of panels? Am asking cause I don't know.

 

[edpdx]

Cucvnut, thanks for the offer. My brother is loaning me his shop to stay out of the rain while I get the repair done. He has a welder I can use, but I do appreciate it. We'll have to get together though, maybe we can get coffee next week.

Zout, after hearing you out about the glass company doing "the right thing", I am not disinclined to go along with your reasoning. They should have had some better plan than to just drive away and leave me with a hole in my truck. This is Oregon, most of the time we are completely submerged.

I have to take the Blazer over to my brother's before assessing all damage. I was thinking of just welding in and appropriatly fit piece of sheet metal complete with flange match-up, but I won't know until the damage is inspected. The original grommet is still glued in place so I didn't get a look behind it yet.

I taken plenty of parts from the boneyard, but never "part" of a roof. They don't from on cutting parts out. What do you use to remove part of the roof- a cordless sawzall?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If you were replying to my post above, chassis saver and glass mat are not bondo, way stronger, very water proof. Can be layed up structually.

No, I was replying to the first post where Bondo was specifically mentioned.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I taken plenty of parts from the boneyard, but never "part" of a roof.

I have seen pictures of quite a few of these. It's a common problem with Jeep Cherokees, and the cure is the same. Cut out a good one and weld it in place.

They don't from on cutting parts out. What do you use to remove part of the roof- a cordless sawzall?

That or an angle grinder, I think. Cut more than you need, and trim to fit when you have the donor piece rigth there with your truck so you can fit it carefully.

 

[edpdx]

So I'll head over to the u-pick yard and see how much I have to buy (the whole roof, or any part and get charged by the linear ft or whatever. I read here that 2K epoxy primer is what I should use to keep rust from attacking the inside of the welds?

Also watched a youtuber say he used POR 15 instead of welding. Adding sheet metal and fiberglass- no welds. I was thinking of welding the new material in place, grinding and filling with POR products- sound right?

 

[cpf240]

One thing that might help those giving advice to the OP:

 

[Cucvnut]

Coffee works! When ever your free works, I have an open schedule

 

[dependable]

I was thinking of welding the new material in place, grinding and filling with POR products- sound right?

The POR 15 like products (I prefer Chassis saver or bill hersch brand for laying glass because they are thicker) are good for sealing rusty areas that can't be prepped or large rusty area like dump bed. The point is they stick to rust and seal it. If you have it prepped for welding ( all rust cut out) you don't need it as much. It is great stuff, but does not sand and is not UV resistant, so needs to be re coated.

 

[zout]

While you tac and stitch weld in a replacement - you can use a heat sink welder product to surround the area so the heat does not make things worse or distort surrounding metalwork -just a thought. Do not be in a hurry tacking and stitch welding - take your time and make sure stuff is cooling off significantly.

If the truck has a headliner - the headliner will have to be dropped down to reach into the cavity of the windshield to access it -to get a 2k primer up in there - all your trying to do it get the material onto those surfaces - it does not have to look pretty cause only you know - shooting herculiner (without the grit) in a nozzle low air will also do. You may have to drill a couple access holes in proper positions to do this - man made it - man can figure it out.

For those using any 2k product - POR or Etch material will not let 2k products bond and adhere to the surface - it will make them float and eventually peel off. Use one or the other - but not both in combination.

As for the glass fella - I do not know if he worked for a company as an employee or owned the company - either way some customer service training should be forthcoming to them. A little courtesy never hurts - gives each of use a little more knowledge how to treat others as well - good lesson how not to treat someone especially when you buying a product and service from them.

Shoot some more pics for reference here to help others while you get this all done please.