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rust in the fuel system

redneck20

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on my 400 mi trip home from buying my m923 i felt like i was having a power problem. we stopped and i pulled the fuel filter to check it and the filter itself was relatively clean but in the bottom of the canister was a bunch of rust/ build up. I'm thinking that if theres rust in there than its gotta be thru out the rest of the system, no? possibly obstructing a line and starving the motor? i cannot see into the tank to see what it looks like, but the screen thingy on the fill hole is about half rusted. im planning on dropping the tank ( syphoning the 80 gal of fuel i just put in it out) and pulling the canister and attempt to use a rust remover.

is there a recommender rust remover for these tanks ?

should i pull the pump and check for rust in it? ( and change the button out)

( i cannot find a how to on how to change the button or rebuild the pump, theres gotta be one out there somewhere? im very mechanically inclined so i should be able to do it)

im also gonna change as many fuel lines as possible.

do these trucks smoke? mine does not smoke when driving only on startup. i have never had an un-emissioned diesel that didnt smoke under "load" .my "0-60" time is like 15minutes and if there is any kind of incline i lose speed and power FAST.i was down to about 15mph on some hills.
i know this isnt a race truck and ive driven non turbo and trucks with a lot of turbo lag and this truck just doesnt feel right.


thanks in advance
 

Floridianson

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Seems like with clean fuel and at night with a flash light you can see the botton of the fuel tank. Boy lots of questions in one post. No don't pull the pump. The rust in the botton of the fuel canister is because the water was not drained a lot, it does not mean it made it past the fuel filter. The canister bottom can be cleaned.Yes there are threads on how to change the (button) idle fuel plunger and turn up the fuel.
Your fuel related problems could just be bad rubber hoses. Slow and steady wins the race most of the time.
What motor do you have.
 
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redneck20

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Sorry it's an nhc 250

Bad hoses? Like they are plugged?

I've searched on the button swap and all I can find is people talking about it but no actual right up with pics or video
 

maddawg308

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Or the hoses are slightly dry rotted and fuel is leaking through them, or air getting into them. Best bet is just check the entire line network and see how they are.

When I bought one of my deuces, the truck started up and idled fine in GL's holding yard, but the second I tried stepping on the gas pedal and driving it, the engine would starve itself of fuel and shut off. The screen in the tank, and the filters were fine. Towed it home and played with it, turned out the front fuel line that goes around the engine underneath the radiator had been crimped by something, restricting the fuel flow. It was open enough to allow a little fuel into the engine to idle, but not enough to allow it to rev up. I cut the metal line out, put a replacement rubber line in, and it ran like a champ.

It's little things like that that will annoy you, but make you say "DOH!" when the simplicity of your problem strikes you.

Good luck!
 

mkcoen

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When I bought one of my deuces, the truck started up and idled fine in GL's holding yard, but the second I tried stepping on the gas pedal and driving it, the engine would starve itself of fuel and shut off. The screen in the tank, and the filters were fine. Towed it home and played with it, turned out the front fuel line that goes around the engine underneath the radiator had been crimped by something, restricting the fuel flow.
GL forklift modification? My deuce had the exact same adjustment. Luckily it wasn't bad enough to keep me from driving it for about a year but finally started leaking at that spot so I did the same repair.
 

redneck20

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Mine will rev and drive, but sometimes around town there is a noticeable difference in power. It seems that if I let it sit for about 15 min it had decent power for about 10 min then falls off a cliff
 

Floridianson

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Lets just start with one thing at a time. Try the flash light and see if you can see the bottom of the tank tonight. I have stuck my arm in the tank and felt around.
It won't hurt you but you might just run around a little faster for awhile till you run out of fuel.
As said the rubber can rot and swell. It can look good from the outside but swolen in side. It can look good but still let air in.
Did the truck come up to 2100 rpm with load (while driving) and do allright till you hit a hill. If you have never driven the 250 military you will find out real quick they are not a 400 Cummins.
Did you get a new fuel filter?
 

capnkirk

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I had the same problem on my recent recovery from Ft. Leonard Wood. I ended up with a plastic 26gal tank in the bed and some extra fuel line to get home. Fuel tank had rust and probably other nasties in it from sitting since 2011. Dump the tank, replace the filters (again if you have to), I pulled the return line out of the tank and it was nasty. There is a hose from the return that hangs down in the tank and it's probably gross on yours too. I don't see the need for it so I am removing it (just the hose inside the tank). Wash the tank out and use shot or muriatic acid or whatever you need to do to remove any rust. Rinse out and reinstall.
 

maddawg308

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If it turns out the inside of the tank is rusty - and you can't find a replacement tank for cheap - you might take it to a radiator shop and ask for him to blast and line the inside of the tank. I had that done with the gas tank for my old M725 and whatever he put in there sealed it and would prevent rust in the future.
 

Artisan

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If you have an "A1" the anti-grenade tank screen deal simply unscrews
just like the gas cap. I think a guy could do away w/ it if he pleased,
personally I will keep mine, it slows down fuel thieves. To get it off
grab a 36" pipe wrench or maybe a pair of giant channel locks.
The gasket (I think) is the same as the cap.

No need to siphon, look at the bottom, you probably have a plug you
can unscrew and drain out all the fuel. (Or if you submarine it, water.)

The inside of my fuel filter was rusty too. All's you need to do is clean it,
replace the filter, fill the bowl up w/ diesel THEN put it back together AND prime it. If
you decide you do not need to do a good job filling it w/ diesel THEN
putting the bowl back together you will become very much acquainted w/
the priming hand pump and a word called "Frustration". I believe you need 500
RPM before the engine will self suck.

There is a small filter that I have never tackled yet at the pump I do believe.
Do your own research but try this NSN in Google IMAGES to see it; 2910-00-790-8736. If anyone knows of a thread here that is a pictorial
on replacing this puppy please link us.

Follow the copper fuel line FROM the tank and look at EVERY inch of it. You may find
it smashed and restricting the flow someplace. I would look at the small plastic
vent hoses for breeches as well.

If rubber hoses look bad replace them. I keep my engine totally free of all leakage
telltales so if I get a leak I see it asap. If your engine is an oily mess rotsOruck.

Also, make SURE the emergency engine stop control valve is WIDE OPEN. Check
all aspects of that puppy, if the clamp on wire stop deal touches the lever
pull it and make sure the lever is open.

After that I punt.





Fungus in fuel system needs to be eliminated.


 

Floridianson

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[QUOTE=capnkirk or muriatic acid

I was going to say that for the canister but you would have to let the canister sit in something like purple power for awhile to get rid of the fuel flim. I also thought if you could get rid of the film in the canister wonder if Coke like you drink would chew through rust?
 

BradBMI

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Also check the emergency stop lever. I picked up a few M923's from GL where someone pulled the handle and didn't know to reset the lever on the injector pump. Bought a few trucks as "blown motor" just to find it was fuel cut off.
 

redneck20

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I looked at the filler screen last night and cannot see how it would unscrew at all. Does anybody have any pics or more detail? I can't get a good look or feel into the tank with it in the way
 

Floridianson

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Yours might not come out. Did you try a strong flashlight and look at night? I tryed mine and it was not even night and I could see clean steel bottom.
 

redneck20

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I just knocked the bottom of the screen off , I can see the bottom now and there is debris in the bottom no not rusty like I was expecting.
Working on changing the fuel filter now. Id like to do the duel fuel line mod while I've got the system open. But I can't find a write up anywhere???
 

redneck20

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It's fixed ! It runs like a race car now , changed the filter and decided to play with the shutoff valve. Before I touched it it was as far forward as the stop in the cable would let it go. Just for fun I decided to pull the stop off. It went a lot further forwards. It was about 2/3 closed. I can actually accelerate uphill now.

Wish I knew it could open more before the miserable drive home.
 
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