rust repair

[M35A2-AZ]

Good call!

I'd like to suggest not trying to use flux core wire for sheet metal. IMHO, it brings the suck.

0.023 wire with shielding gas, is much more user friendly. YMMV

Good luck.

I think 0.023 wire with shielding gas is the way to go also.

 

[cucvrus]

Rust never sleeps. Every rust spot I cut out was followed by the following
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-silver-rust-encapsulator-15oz-aer.html
before welding in the patch steel. The product comes with a very long tube to insert
way up into the passage way in all directions between the two metal surfaces.
I figured that as long as I was cutting out a rust hole
there might also be some hidden rust that this stuff might slow down.

Slow down the rust is the Key word. Never stop it. And welding just promotes more rust. I have used the Lords epoxy method a few times. No heat so no burnt panels. I also like brazing but to be honest I hate rust. But the gluing method is the easiest and nicest. Covered with filler and sanded the same way as welding it in place. Less hazards. On the interior floor Gluing and #11 3/16" rivets are awesome. Then a professional coat of Line X. I am doing the cargo bed of my M1008 at the moment. Fun Fun. Soon ready for primer/sealer. Good Luck.

 

[iacucv]

Cucvrus nailed it here! I'm a body man. I love all metal, especially on older vehicles that were built with real steel. But there's no denying in places you can't get to the back side of, glue is far superior for preventing future rust issues. That said I often use the 2 in combination, with plug welds or other welds along with gluing. Certain spots one or the other has an edge. If money is an issue, learning how to properly panel bond would be significantly cheaper.... However who doesn't need a 110v MIG machine at least? My new floor pans will be glued in...... But my Chevelle will be all metal. That's just me and my choice.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I picked up some MIG welding skills a while back at work. We do a lot of stainless steel work on commercial kitchen equipment. I just started playing with the welder one day and the next thing you know I'm plug welding holes and doing small projects.

Get some 18 gauge metal scrap, use an old fender or something. Cut a hole in it and try to patch it. You would be surprised how fast you can pick up skills needed to do sheet metal work.


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[dependable]

I have a MIG and used to use it a lot more, but as noted above, the blind sides of welds can rust out fast. Lately I have been using 3M body panel adhesive and rivets to do both structural and non structural rust repairs. The Lord brand may be just as good, have not tried it. The Sem brand adhesive gives off acid fumes when curing, the 3M seems like JB weld, and has reasonable set up time and almost no smell.

After cutting out all the rusted parts, if you overlap the repair joint a couple of inches, and grind to bare metal on both mating sides, the 3M product is at least as strong as sheet metal weld. Form and fit your repair panels, and drill holes and check fit with Cleco fasteners, apply epoxy to both patch and edge of repair area, and rivet in place into the same holes you used for the Clecos, generally 6 to 8 inches apart.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I have a MIG and used to use it a lot more, but as noted above, the blind sides of welds can rust out fast. Lately I have been using 3M body panel adhesive and rivets to do both structural and non structural rust repairs. The Lord brand may be just as good, have not tried it. The Sem brand adhesive gives off acid fumes when curing, the 3M seems like JB weld, and has reasonable set up time and almost no smell.

After cutting out all the rusted parts, if you overlap the repair joint a couple of inches, and grind to bare metal on both mating sides, the 3M product is at least as strong as sheet metal weld. Form and fit your repair panels, and drill holes and check fit with Cleco fasteners, apply epoxy to both patch and edge of repair area, and rivet in place into the same holes you used for the Clecos, generally 6 to 8 inches apart.

On blind repairs I definitely can see how the epoxy is superior. I've used one of those products before and they work great. Maybe I'll try it on my next repair.

If you could paint/treat the backside of the weld it would be a non-issue but unfortunately repairs aren't always in accessible areas. I have to replace some sections of the floor and bed in my M1009 and I plan on welding that but maybe I'll try the glue in some areas.




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