Rusted-stuck boom extension on M923 spare tire carrier

[manders]

I'm in mid-restoration and struggling mightily with the danged boom extension on my spare tire carrier. It is rusted tight in place.

Here's what I've tried so far:

1. Liberal application of PB Blaster, wait appropriate delay, attempt extension rotation from welded-on cross piece on front of extension. No joy!
2. Position tire iron on inner lip at rear of boom, pound furiously. No joy!!
3. Use propane torch to heat length of boom, pound furiously at inner lip at rear of boom. No joy!!!
4. Place dried chicken bones in old tin can, rattle liberally, dumb at base of spare tire carrier, arms spread outward, eyes skyward, and invoke mystical Santeria chant to Great MV Spirit in the Sky!

(Okay ... maybe I only thought about doing that last one ... )

Not that I'll ever need it ... y'all know my truck is in perfect condition, with brand-new tires, sits in a showroom all year long, etc. ... but I figure it might be a good idea to get this darn thing working one of these days.

All recommendations and guidance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

MAnders.

 

[F18hornetM]

I like option #4

Honestly have no idea, Mine slid right out. And its just a piece of pipe inside a pipe. All else fails make a new one

 

[manders]

All else fails make a new one

Ain't that the truth! Of all the stuff on this beast, that's just about the easiest to have custom made!

Thanks.

MAnders.

 

[wreckerman893]

I have use parafin (candle wax) to remove stubborn lunettes. You have to heat everything up and allow the wax to be sucked into the space between the two pipes. It sometimes takes a couple of applications. What has probably happened is that the rust has welded the two pieces together. Is there a grease fitting on the outside of the pipe?

 

[PWM]

I have not tried it yet but I keep seeing salt and white vinegar rust dissolving recipes, maybe that would work.

 

[F18hornetM]

Not home right now to look at mine, but could you remove the main horizontal arm and drive something in from the other end?

 

[Floridianson]

Coke will eat rust. Coke will eat steel it has phosphorus acid.

 

[F18hornetM]

Good thing I don't drink sodas anymore, Beer is good right??

 

[Trailboss]

I had that problem due to sand that had blown in and then water rusted to where it was frozen. I used the extension from another truck, flipped it around so that the back end fit around the bolt and rested against the back end of the stuck extension. Liberal applications of spray lube and a BFH finally got it to move. You might remove that bolt if you have to and use another pipe to beat it out. Be careful beating the ears as they will bend and may break off.

 

[royalflush55]

I have use parafin (candle wax) to remove stubborn lunettes. You have to heat everything up and allow the wax to be sucked into the space between the two pipes. It sometimes takes a couple of applications. What has probably happened is that the rust has welded the two pieces together. Is there a grease fitting on the outside of the pipe?

I second this motion!! The wax at the right temp will run into tight spaces, let it cool and it will expand enough to separate the two pieces. The wax also is a lubricant to ease further movement.

 

[manders]

Not home right now to look at mine, but could you remove the main horizontal arm and drive something in from the other end?

The "rear" end is open; the inner piece is notched horizontally and slides into a small welded cross-member whose role is to prevent the extension from sliding out the back end. This is where I'm able to apply force to the inner pipe. I'm going to locate a scrap piece of the the same diameter, give all these rust loosening recipes a try, and then take a sledge and get busy!

 

[manders]

Is there a grease fitting on the outside of the pipe?

Not on the sections that are fused together.

Great idea about the paraffin, I'm going to give that a try.

Thanks!

 

[eviioiive]

Mine had the same problem but I was able to get the spare on and off without extending it

 

[Flyingvan911]

I would have bet money #4 would work. Try the phosphoric acid. It should eay the rust way and free the arm.

 

[RustyM923]

ATF and kerosene. Works great.

 

[Floridianson]

The coke will only work if it is clean and dry. I guess in this case with stuff allready put on the metal the phosphorus acid can not chew through oils and stuff like PB blaster.

 

[manders]

The coke will only work if it is clean and dry. I guess in this case with stuff allready put on the metal the phosphorus acid can not chew through oils and stuff like PB blaster.

As part of my restoration work, the boom was just recently sandblasted. It might be the perfect time to try the coke! Stay tuned ...

 

[manders]

Mine had the same problem but I was able to get the spare on and off without extending it

For me the tire tends to roll over sideways, so I placed a couple sturdy 2x4's between the ground and the tank and Soldier B guided the tire down until it met the ground. That'll do in an emergency ...

 

[tbearatkin]

I recently bought a radial arm saw and the shaft for raising the saw rusted and no matter how hard I turned the crank it would not move. I tried PB blaster, WD40 breakfree and nothing seemed to work. Finally tried what worked to free a frozen piston in a motorcycle years ago. Marvel Mystery oil and within 20min of liberal dose of it the shaft broke free. So Marvel Mystery Oil is what I recommend.

 

[manders]

I would have bet money #4 would work.

Me too, right!?!?!?

Maybe the wrong phase of the moon. Next time, I'll toss in a little fresh chicken blood as well!