mangus580
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Has anyone done this, and has pics of the project? It would make a nice Tech Article for the site...
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Safely towing an M35-How far?
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M1075
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RE: Shift-less
When towing a duece, the M44 -10 indicates the drive shafts should be disonnected on sprag unit trucks, but doesn't show any procedures required for air-shift transfers. What is required on air-shifts? Remove the drive shafts or the axle shafts? ? Kenny, what do you plug the hubs with?
When towing a duece, the M44 -10 indicates the drive shafts should be disonnected on sprag unit trucks, but doesn't show any procedures required for air-shift transfers. What is required on air-shifts? Remove the drive shafts or the axle shafts? ? Kenny, what do you plug the hubs with?
mangus580
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RE: Shift-less
We pulled all the axle flanges and half shafts on the trip referenced here.
what I would like to see, is the info to activate the brakes![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Although, the stopping part wasnt the issue, so much as the going part
We pulled all the axle flanges and half shafts on the trip referenced here.
what I would like to see, is the info to activate the brakes
Although, the stopping part wasnt the issue, so much as the going part
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RE: Shift-less
As most know, I'm somewhat lazy and prefer not to hang out under the truck pulling drive shafts. I simply remove the front drive flanges and use the flanges to cover the rear where I pull all 4 axle shafts.I have the luxury of having extra front flanges around and take some with me. Like this they can be towed until the bearigns need repacked. I leave the fronts exposed but I've been able to aviod rain. Work of caution with GSA truck purchases. The FD folks who work on the trucks from Div of Foresstry don't know about packing rear bearings all the time. You might find a truck thats getting its rear bearing lube from the differential. Just one thing to consider on how far to tow.
As most know, I'm somewhat lazy and prefer not to hang out under the truck pulling drive shafts. I simply remove the front drive flanges and use the flanges to cover the rear where I pull all 4 axle shafts.I have the luxury of having extra front flanges around and take some with me. Like this they can be towed until the bearigns need repacked. I leave the fronts exposed but I've been able to aviod rain. Work of caution with GSA truck purchases. The FD folks who work on the trucks from Div of Foresstry don't know about packing rear bearings all the time. You might find a truck thats getting its rear bearing lube from the differential. Just one thing to consider on how far to tow.
M1075
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RE: Shift-less
Thanks, men. I see a little towing in my future.
Thanks, men. I see a little towing in my future.
RE: Shift-less
I've flat-towed more 6x6's than what I can think of. Using my 275A2 I have a long wire that plugs into the trailer eletrics(12 volt), (I have a 12 volt and 24 volt cable) I zip tie it all the way back to the end of the towed truck, have two lights I vise-grip on. I have a tow bar that cost about $30 to put together 15-20 years ago. Originally for pulling M135's, I modified it to the narrower M35. Put the transfer in neutral and go. Greatest distance is just over 400 miles at one time. Speed around fifty. Open road no problems. Tight turns be prepared. Sometimes it will decide not to follow. Never had problems with braking. Talk to me in a few weeks....I'll be pulling an M52A2 w/M275A2 the weight ratio is going to be way off.
I've flat-towed more 6x6's than what I can think of. Using my 275A2 I have a long wire that plugs into the trailer eletrics(12 volt), (I have a 12 volt and 24 volt cable) I zip tie it all the way back to the end of the towed truck, have two lights I vise-grip on. I have a tow bar that cost about $30 to put together 15-20 years ago. Originally for pulling M135's, I modified it to the narrower M35. Put the transfer in neutral and go. Greatest distance is just over 400 miles at one time. Speed around fifty. Open road no problems. Tight turns be prepared. Sometimes it will decide not to follow. Never had problems with braking. Talk to me in a few weeks....I'll be pulling an M52A2 w/M275A2 the weight ratio is going to be way off.
M1075
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RE: Shift-less
Joseph, have you ever pulled the axles shafts or drive shafts?
Joseph, have you ever pulled the axles shafts or drive shafts?
RE: Shift-less
Never. I check to make sure the oils are right in the axles and transfer case. Put the transfer in nuetral and go. I brought an M35A2C back from Wright-Patterson 3 months ago. Then 2 weeks ago brought back an M35A2 from Urbana(almost to Dayton). From my place to Wright-Patterson is 406 miles. To help with the steering of the towed truck I put the front tire pressure of that truck at 60-70 psi. The tires don't grab as easy.
Never. I check to make sure the oils are right in the axles and transfer case. Put the transfer in nuetral and go. I brought an M35A2C back from Wright-Patterson 3 months ago. Then 2 weeks ago brought back an M35A2 from Urbana(almost to Dayton). From my place to Wright-Patterson is 406 miles. To help with the steering of the towed truck I put the front tire pressure of that truck at 60-70 psi. The tires don't grab as easy.
Towman2277
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RE: Shift-less
I would do the same as what Joseph does.....as long as the transfer is in nuetral, everything else spins naturally with lubricant and no damage. I hate wrestling with shafts!!
I would do the same as what Joseph does.....as long as the transfer is in nuetral, everything else spins naturally with lubricant and no damage. I hate wrestling with shafts!!
Three very strong recommendations:
1. If you are going any significant distance, do the J-line mod as described above so you can activate the service brakes on the towed vehicle. It is real hard to quickly and safely stop TWO Deuces with only ONE Deuce applying the brakes.
2. POSITIVELY REMOVE the T-case to front rear axle driveshaft (at least disconnect from the front rear axle and tie it up out of the way). You will save a lot of stress on the T-case, plus if the T-case shift lever happens to bounce down out of the neutral position into low range, your tranny will be toast in no time at all!
3. Either splice into the rear running & turn signal lights as mentioned above or make up a set of temporary rear lights you can attach to the towed vehicle. A far distant choice is to run with the towed vehicles hazard flashers on.
1. If you are going any significant distance, do the J-line mod as described above so you can activate the service brakes on the towed vehicle. It is real hard to quickly and safely stop TWO Deuces with only ONE Deuce applying the brakes.
2. POSITIVELY REMOVE the T-case to front rear axle driveshaft (at least disconnect from the front rear axle and tie it up out of the way). You will save a lot of stress on the T-case, plus if the T-case shift lever happens to bounce down out of the neutral position into low range, your tranny will be toast in no time at all!
3. Either splice into the rear running & turn signal lights as mentioned above or make up a set of temporary rear lights you can attach to the towed vehicle. A far distant choice is to run with the towed vehicles hazard flashers on.
Hookin1
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For those of you that don't have spare front axel flanges around...you can use a piece of thick cardboard or plywood to cover your rear axel housings...for me i took some plywood mark the bolts from your axel...(which is easier to do if you remove a front axel flange and use it to mark the holes).....then take some rtv sealer and spread it all over one side of the plywood...then bolt them on in place of your axels...and the rtv helps keep the oil in.....
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One of the biggest reasons I remove the shafts is not knowing the condition of any internal parts. With no shafts, the only thing turning is the wheel bearings. Also helps with the scrubbing that occurs between the fwd and aft rear axles, especially with mismatched tires. Heres how I get lights.
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- 10,350
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
To get lights for this tow, I spliced two trailer cables together so that each end had a male connector. Then I plugged one end into the trailer connector on the deuce and the other on the xm757's trailer connector.
Didn't have brake lights for some reason, but everything else worked. Used the 4-way flashers so much that it probably didn't matter anyway.
Four propeller shafts were removed for the trip and the rearmost axle was suspended with a chain to reduce drag while turning.
Towed the 8x8 over 1,000 miles this way.
Weight distribution: Deuce was 20,000 lb and 8x8 16,000 lb
Didn't have brake lights for some reason, but everything else worked. Used the 4-way flashers so much that it probably didn't matter anyway.
Four propeller shafts were removed for the trip and the rearmost axle was suspended with a chain to reduce drag while turning.
Towed the 8x8 over 1,000 miles this way.
Weight distribution: Deuce was 20,000 lb and 8x8 16,000 lb
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M1075
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Bjorn, that is a sweet pic. Nice job on the acquisition and tow!
- 10,350
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Thanks James! It wouldn't have happened if it hadn't been for you and the help from Charley Bell in Harrah, OK.
The image shows Charley (on the ground) and DJ when we suspended the rear axle and removed the rearmost drive shaft, which was frozen in the slip joint.
I want to add that Jason Curtis came down from Northwest Arkansas and brought the tow bar plus adapters, without which we would have had trouble. Thanks Jason!
The image shows Charley (on the ground) and DJ when we suspended the rear axle and removed the rearmost drive shaft, which was frozen in the slip joint.
I want to add that Jason Curtis came down from Northwest Arkansas and brought the tow bar plus adapters, without which we would have had trouble. Thanks Jason!
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PS - Removing the outer duals from the towed truck and putting them in the bed of the towing truck helps a lot also. Best done with a 2nd soldier to help, pretty hard to do by a single person unless you are a lot younger and stronger than me. A mounted Deuce tire and rim is a bunch of weight to chuck in the bed of a Deuce single handed!