SCH60 Heater Battery, know how to fab or get one?

[gimpyrobb]

The batterys I have access to are all junk. Either they are damaged or they don't hold a charge, sorry guys.

 

[cjtroutt]

Gimpyrob what is the price on one that doesn't keep a charge.

 

[tim292stro]

Yes, color me interested too!! I'm looking to clone or replace the battery cells in a bad pack.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I will check this week.

 

[NormB]

Holy zombie post, Batman!

Did this ever get resolved?

Are there non-working battery packs to be found for rebuild?

Anyone have the details on the components needed (case, thermistor, heating pad wattage/model) from mouser, digikey, ePay?

Awaiting delivery of one of these from Henry’s Trucks, have control head and cable. I’d like to get this running.

Thanks in advance.

Norm

 

[ward107]

I bought a ambient temp sensor for a 2005 ford e350 and wired it in to fool the system, bought 2 motorcycle agm batteries and two fuse blocks with 20 amp fuses which I wired direct. The heating pad is not required. You will want to refer to the service Manuel posted in a few places within Steel Soldiers to get the proper wiring. Good Luck

 

[Cantineaux]

Yeah I have been bad about responses lately in part because of the 100+ things on my plate...... Yes, I built mine...... I have a post floating around here outlining it.......... Then again, you can save a lot of aggravation by simply adapting the connector and hooking up a pair of tractor batteries (they will work but not fit in the tray)......

Hey,

so I was following some of the conversations here and I’m struggling with the same issue.
I bought the SHC35 Hunter and it also came without the battery pack , as I am from Belgium I can not buy the same parts here as you guys do. I was wondering if I hook 2x 12v 5ah batteries on the systeem with each a 20A fuze on the positive side to the connector (i also need to completely put new connectors cause we don’t have the same ones here). would the system work or do I also need to do something to rig or fool the white and brown wires ?

Im hoping someone can help me out.

 

[kd5byb]

I was wondering if I hook 2x 12v 5ah batteries on the systeem with each a 20A fuze on the positive side to the connector (i also need to completely put new connectors cause we don’t have the same ones here). would the system work or do I also need to do something to rig or fool the white and brown wires ?

That's pretty much what I'm doing to get my SHC35 working: using two 7 amp-hour 12 VDC gel cells with 20 amp fuses wired per the directions earlier in this thread. This evening I'm going to add the 5k resistor to the THERM wires for good measure. I've not yet got mine to run this way, but no reason it shouldn't work...

thanks,
ben

 

[Cantineaux]

Mine finally started -> I had a lot of air in the system from standing still without gas for a long time.

Now the next problem emerged, the heater pulls out all the energy out of the battery within 1hour and it doesn’t recharge. So after 1hr the heater stops and goes in alarm 12 ( low voltage ) so I still think that I wired something wrong. Does anyone have any suggestions?


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[kd5byb]

Excellent - glad you were able to get it going. With it having started and ran fine, my thought is that your battery wiring is fine. If it was wrong, I don't think the heater would have powered up at all.

Do you have the military technical manual for the SHC35? If no, get one. They are available at Hunter's webpage if I remember correctly. I beleive it has troubleshooting steps for the case when the battery just runs down and doesn't recharge. I'd start there with my troubleshooting.

thanks,
ben

 

[Poccur]

Mine finally started -> I had a lot of air in the system from standing still without gas for a long time.

Now the next problem emerged, the heater pulls out all the energy out of the battery within 1hour and it doesn’t recharge. So after 1hr the heater stops and goes in alarm 12 ( low voltage ) so I still think that I wired something wrong. Does anyone have any suggestions?


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Does the battery charging light come on at all?

 

[ZiggyO]

Download the manual from hdt and compare the schematic in the manual to the actual wiring on the unit--- -if you look at some of the earlier units, the schematic inside the cover for the TEG into the relay board is reversed-- this is a known typo and possibly why some units were surplussed out. There are a few mofsets on the relay board that could get smoked due to a reverse hookup and may need to be replaced (some soldering required). When hooking things up, always follow the schematics in the latest version of the manual.........

Also check the relay contacts for continuity-- I have seen instances where once the unit is running that someone unplugged a charged pack and plugged in a dead one to charge-- that really wreaks havoc with the charge control. These things are alot like the m series alternators-- they do not like to have the batteries disconnected when running-- bad things happen (I had a discussion with an engineer for HDT when they were still hunter technologies-- he stated that there is not alot of surge control built into the circuitry-- also he said that the TEG can develop a bad connection at the wire hookup points-- look closely there for compound deterioration)........

Z

 

[Cantineaux]

Does the battery charging light come on at all?

Nope not at all, the first time I put the battery I accidently put the - negative cable on the positive side of the battery so the pin in the connector gave a little spark and the fuze jumped. Than I switched it and changed the fuze but the pin is a little bit black and sometimes gives a bad connection could this be the problem ?


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[Cantineaux]

Download the manual from hdt and compare the schematic in the manual to the actual wiring on the unit--- -if you look at some of the earlier units, the schematic inside the cover for the TEG into the relay board is reversed-- this is a known typo and possibly why some units were surplussed out. There are a few mofsets on the relay board that could get smoked due to a reverse hookup and may need to be replaced (some soldering required). When hooking things up, always follow the schematics in the latest version of the manual.........

Also check the relay contacts for continuity-- I have seen instances where once the unit is running that someone unplugged a charged pack and plugged in a dead one to charge-- that really wreaks havoc with the charge control. These things are alot like the m series alternators-- they do not like to have the batteries disconnected when running-- bad things happen (I had a discussion with an engineer for HDT when they were still hunter technologies-- he stated that there is not alot of surge control built into the circuitry-- also he said that the TEG can develop a bad connection at the wire hookup points-- look closely there for compound deterioration)........

Z

Yeah the unit has around 180hr on the counter so I suppose it could be one that had that problem , I also saw that on the side of the fuel pump ther are some of the silver pins on one of the circuitboards that are bendes down a bit, I don’t really know what these do.

I really appreciate the help !


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[Poccur]

Nope not at all, the first time I put the battery I accidently put the - negative cable on the positive side of the battery so the pin in the connector gave a little spark and the fuze jumped. Than I switched it and changed the fuze but the pin is a little bit black and sometimes gives a bad connection could this be the problem ?


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Just for quick confirmation...I used the charging adapter to confirm the pin outs...RED and WHITE are positive, BLACK and GREEN are negative...

 

[Poccur]

Yeah the unit has around 180hr on the counter so I suppose it could be one that had that problem , I also saw that on the side of the fuel pump ther are some of the silver pins on one of the circuitboards that are bendes down a bit, I don’t really know what these do.

I really appreciate the help !


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[Cantineaux]

Just for quick confirmation...I used the charging adapter to confirm the pin outs...RED and WHITE are positive, BLACK and GREEN are negative...

Yeah I did the same when I assembled the battery pack the only thing what I could be thinking is that the resistor that I put in maybe gives a false low temperature and that the unit gives priority to warming up the battery but normally it should give a constant 25°C
I just really hope I didn’t burn or break something when I connected the battery wrong the first time


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