gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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While that would work well, I'd never do it on a deuce.
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I thought the fuse blew at a given amperage because of internal resistance, which would then fall under V=IR, but I'm a mechanical engineer, far from an electrical!Amps are amps, the voltage across an unblown fuse is zero, so a ten amp fuse is a ten amp fuse is a ten amp fuse on 24v, 12v or 6v. The only time voltage rating comes into play is if the voltage is high enough to overcome the fuse housings dielectric rating. Since you are probably not installing a 30,000 volt alternator, not to worry.
I also thought about that but from an off-roading perspective you have two problems: a low hanging fuel line that could get ripped off and empty both your tanks, secondly, on a slope the fuel will all go to the down hill tank. With two full tanks it would start pouring out the tank cap.Most Over the Road trucks with multiple tanks, just use about a 3/4" transfer hose that is plumbed to the bottom side of the tanks. Both tanks stay the same level. It wouldn't matter which tank, the return is to. No extra wiring. Solder in a fitting on your new tank, with an outlet ball valve, pump off the fuel in you old tank, to the new one, while you solder in the fittings, then hook up a transfer hose, between the two tanks.
secondly, on a slope the fuel will all go to the down hill tank. With two full tanks it would start pouring out the tank cap.
As I said later, the valve was the most expensive part. But it's the best way to do it in my mind as it avoids the problem of tank to tank transfer and adds redundancy to the fuel system that is present if you build a cascading transfer system.Rough details of what I had to do in order to make this work.
1. Source a second tank with pump.
2. Source a set of fuel tank hangers.
3. Find a fuel selector valve from an M818 or other 5 ton with 2 tanks.
4. Find a relay and switch
5. find a second fuel tank level gauge.
6. source misc hardware, hoses, fittings copper line, and nuts/bolts for the setup
1st step, take down the spare tire hanger and loosen hardware on the inside of the frame rails where the hoses and wiring are so you don't cut them when drilling.
2nd, mark the hangers and center punch then drill the holes.
3rd, hang the fuel tank hangers and tank.
4th Fab up a new vent line and tee it into the existing vent line. If you split your vents before you should have an input already. This is iirc, 1/16's line (small stuff).
5th install the fuel valve after attaching all the usual hoses.
6th install the fuel gauge in the spot to the left of the existing gauge, add a one way switch on the dash to control the relay.
7. install the relay in a useful spot. I elected to install an aluminum box on the bed near the existing tank so I didn't have to hack the wiring hardness to find the correct wire. This way power runs to the tank but is diverted to go to the box with the relay control wire from the dash energizing the relay to select the left side pump. I'll otherwise power the right side pump when the relay coil is unenergized. Thus it fails to using the right side tank if there's a relay or switch problem.
8. plumb up the tank and fuel lines to the fuel selector valve.
9. test it and now you have 110 gallons of fuel good for ~1000 miles on a good day.
I get ya, instead of isolating the two tanks, Link them with transfer hoses top and bottom. When the tanks are full, you got 100 gallons (per 50 gallon M35A2 tanks) and when the gauge reads half full, you got 50 gallons. This is the epitome of the K.I.S.S. principal. Makes sense to me!Most Over the Road trucks with multiple tanks, just use about a 3/4" transfer hose that is plumbed to the bottom side of the tanks. Both tanks stay the same level. It wouldn't matter which tank, the return is to. No extra wiring. Solder in a fitting on your new tank, with an outlet ball valve, pump off the fuel in you old tank, to the new one, while you solder in the fittings, then hook up a transfer hose, between the two tanks.
Does not work for off road, the lower hose gets ripped off, so KISS does NOT work hereI get ya, instead of isolating the two tanks, Link them with transfer hoses top and bottom. When the tanks are full, you got 100 gallons (per 50 gallon M35A2 tanks) and when the gauge reads half full, you got 50 gallons. This is the epitome of the K.I.S.S. principal. Makes sense to me!
Personally, I would rather keep my bed open from clutter. More space for parts you can bring home from the rallys!
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