SEE Oil change hints

[peakbagger]

I got around to changing the oil on my SEE yesterday. For those who haven't done it, some comments. You need a 14 mm hex head socket to remove the oil drain. I picked one up at Amazon. I would suggest using a drywall bucket for draining the oil as when the drain plug is removed a large funnel into the 5 gallon hydraulic pail isn't going to work (trust me, I learned the hard way). When the drain plug is removed the oil really dumps out quick. The drain plug on the oil filter is supposed to drain through the hollow center of the plug and is set up for a drain hose to direct the oil. On mine the hollow area in the plug was plugged with dirt so it didn't drain until the plug was completely removed. While cleaning out the oil filter housing I noticed that the spot where the oil sample fitting is welded to the housing was never drilled out, therefore the oil analysis fitting is useless as there is no way for oil to get into it. A small funnel is the way to go to add oil back into the oil filter via the fill plug which is accessed with the engine cover off.

All minor items but might save someone some frustration and a puddle of oil on the driveway.

 

[The FLU farm]

The drain plug on the oil filter is supposed to drain through the hollow center of the plug and is set up for a drain hose to direct the oil. On mine the hollow area in the plug was plugged with dirt so it didn't drain until the plug was completely removed.

Had the same issue when changing oil and filter on the HMMH the other day. If it happens again, I'll try blowing the crud out with compressed air before removing the drain plug and making a mess.

 

[Go Go Gadget FLU 419]

Thanks for the pointers! Mine was packed tight with what I'd expect to be mud dobbers or whatever the're called, the mud nest making wasp. I'll try and keep an eye out for a cover/plug for it. I slid a 5 gallon bucket under the pan and went to town with it. She really lets loose!

I understand what you mean now about that part not being drilled out. I saw a very small hole in mine, and with as much sludge as was in there, I wouldn't think anyone could get much of anything out of it. I decided not to take that part off though, contrary to what the TM's say.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

Where are you guys getting filters from? I need a spare. And I'm installing an hour meter for oil change intervals since mileage isn't an accurate means.

 

[peakbagger]

I bought the filter kit from Expeditions Imports, It includes fuel filter, fuel strainer and gasket, oil filter and outer air filter. I have seen comments in the past that NAPA may have one that fits if the clerk can find the right part number.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

I'd like to find that Napa part number. I haven't been able to find a cross reference for the Mann one.

 

[The FLU farm]

Never did manage to find anything through NAPA, and we tried pretty hard.
I did find one source where the Mann filter was (as I recall) about $15, and I was skeptical until it arrived. But, it was the real thing.
Either way, we should support places like EI, I think. We'd be screwed without them.

 

[MrSEE]

Another note on oil changes. The o-ring you get in the MANN packages is... hidden on your mog. It seals between the oil filter bowl and the mounting bolt shaft. It goes in the middle of the hole in the oil filter bowl. It's not a key item per say, just keeps oil from leaking out and encountering the seal ring on the outside of the filter bowl.

Also, I find pre-filling the filter bowl is the way to go for efficiency. You can fill the 1L from the top plug in cab, but with the filter in you're likely to make a mess unless you have a sealed/threaded connection to fill (the housing and filter can't Bsorb at any acceptable pouring rate). Put 500-600mL oil in the bowl (or as much as you dare) after you load the filter and run the bolt through. Shouldn't get spillage while thread on... And the filter is pre-soaked for startup.

 

[The FLU farm]

I'm the first one to fill filters whenever possible, to minimize the time without oil pressure.
However, at least my SEEs and the HMMH takes an agonizing six to seven seconds before showing pressure on the gauge when they've been sitting for a while.
Does filling the filter make a noticeable difference? If so I'll do it, but I don't remember seeing a difference.

I guess that I'm not the only one who waits for the oil pressure gauge to show a reading before giving it enough throttle to make the alternator kick in and making the other gauges work.

 

[MrSEE]

I see no difference between the two methods. That gauge takes a long time to kick up regardless!

 

[The FLU farm]

I was hoping you'd say that, MrSEE. Now I won't feel guilty about not filling the filter bowl.