I've had this thing for a month or so and have not been able to get the 2 spd to change into high range. I have air at both banjo fittings on top of the transmission. I think the piston maybe stuck? I really didn't won't to take the cover off but looks that is the next step. Any ideas?
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SEE won't shift into High
- Thread starter minirover
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I don't think having air to it has anything to do with the lever's operation. Or do you mean that the splitter is stuck in low?
The few times I've put it in high, there really hasn't been much of a difference, so it always stays in low. Might be a noticeable difference on the road, but not in low range (by lever).
As I recall, the clutch neutral switch must be engaged for the splitter to work. Maybe it's an easy fix after all?
The few times I've put it in high, there really hasn't been much of a difference, so it always stays in low. Might be a noticeable difference on the road, but not in low range (by lever).
As I recall, the clutch neutral switch must be engaged for the splitter to work. Maybe it's an easy fix after all?
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The switch is near the pivot of the clutch pedal, and you can push it in by hand, too.
But since it has to be activated for the SEE to start in the first place, it most likely either works or is bypassed. At one point I thought that the splitter didn't work on mine, or that the rpm difference was minute, until one day I did push the clutch in all the way while driving - after reading that the switch had to be activated.
Since I try not to use the clutch any more than necessary, and don't push it all the way other than to start, for all practical purposes my splitter doesn't work, either.
It could be that your driving style is like mine when it comes to clutch use, and that you just need to "stomp" on the pedal instead of pushing it normally, part way.
But since it has to be activated for the SEE to start in the first place, it most likely either works or is bypassed. At one point I thought that the splitter didn't work on mine, or that the rpm difference was minute, until one day I did push the clutch in all the way while driving - after reading that the switch had to be activated.
Since I try not to use the clutch any more than necessary, and don't push it all the way other than to start, for all practical purposes my splitter doesn't work, either.
It could be that your driving style is like mine when it comes to clutch use, and that you just need to "stomp" on the pedal instead of pushing it normally, part way.
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Glad you got it fixed! But while I frequently drive triple digit speeds in more road worthy vehicles, I don't understand what is nice about going 50 mph in a SEE.
Okay, if somebody was shooting at me I'd gladly go that fast, and worry about the consequences later. Or if there was a pyroclastic flow heading my way, or...
Yeah, I guess there are times when driving fast in a SEE could be appropriate.
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You're welcome, minirover.
Ironically, a few days ago I read in the "newly discovered" handout that without the loader and backhoe the SEE should only be driven at max. 5mph, and within a service facility. I know, I know, it didn't make sense to me, either.
Ironically, a few days ago I read in the "newly discovered" handout that without the loader and backhoe the SEE should only be driven at max. 5mph, and within a service facility. I know, I know, it didn't make sense to me, either.
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Perfect for a prolonged burnout. Gotta get rid of those Michelins somehow.
I'll try to get a video.
On a serious note. The ratio between high and low in each gear is very nice. The shifting is perfect with no loss of speed or RPM. So if you are in 3rd low and shift to 3rd high there is no loss of momentum. Same thing in each gear. You can stay is high and shift thru but if you are on a little bit of an incline it works perfect to shift to high in the same gear and continue thru the gears.
On a serious note. The ratio between high and low in each gear is very nice. The shifting is perfect with no loss of speed or RPM. So if you are in 3rd low and shift to 3rd high there is no loss of momentum. Same thing in each gear. You can stay is high and shift thru but if you are on a little bit of an incline it works perfect to shift to high in the same gear and continue thru the gears.
peakbagger
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It would be interesting to see what the spring rates on the 406 versus the 419 are. My guess is the spring rates are a lot higher on the 419 to deal with the weight. Overspung with the overly stiff shocks definitely might make it dance a bit at speed.
Might be worth a call to VonsMogs. I bet he may have the parts you want to get it to handle correctly although I expect that removing the frame braces might help.
Might be worth a call to VonsMogs. I bet he may have the parts you want to get it to handle correctly although I expect that removing the frame braces might help.
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- The actual midwest, NM.
Yeah, that's how I use the splitter in the Pete when pulling a heavy load, or passing on an uphill, and I'm sure it's just as useful to be able to split gears in a SEE. But with my SEE, that hardly ever gets subjected to road use, the range lever and splitter stays in low.
And if I could make it go only half as fast in First low as it does now, I'd be very happy.
WE have been talking about that. Also the articulation is suffering. Our plan for the truck is to repaint it, put a bed on it with drop down sides and just drive it around. I grew up hardcore offroading, so probably won't be doing any of that.
peakbagger
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My understanding is that the added bracing for the backhoe fundamentally defeats Mercedes design philosophy of a flexible frame which is a key part of articulation. I don't know how much the bracing weighs but it sure looks quite heavy. I do know that Mercedes goes to a lot of trouble on later models to issue specs on required clearances for aftermarket bodies and equipment to prevent the added components from messing up articulation. On the 1300 series both the ambulance and cargo bed is installed using several odd linkages to the frame so that the frame can twist independent of the bed or box. That's probably not needed with the SEE with the braces on it but expect it would be an issue if the braces are removed. I would think the ROPS also would be an issue as it looks firmly attached to the frame rails ( I sure don't advocate removing the ROPS as I have seen photos of what can happen to mog cab without ROPS and its not pretty.
I have seen references to SEEs that are being converted back to 406 configuration over the years but haven't seen any details. I think the Europeans may be doing it as the collector market appears to be more active. I expect a few people have done it, its just finding how successful they were and avoiding reinventing the wheel. I think VonsMogs goes the other way and upgrades 406s with SEE components as the SEE has many upgraded bits and pieces over the original 406 series.
I have seen references to SEEs that are being converted back to 406 configuration over the years but haven't seen any details. I think the Europeans may be doing it as the collector market appears to be more active. I expect a few people have done it, its just finding how successful they were and avoiding reinventing the wheel. I think VonsMogs goes the other way and upgrades 406s with SEE components as the SEE has many upgraded bits and pieces over the original 406 series.