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Self Canceling Turn Signal - NOT the wheel ring

zr2yz125

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Knoxville
I'm having an issue with my turn signal. I noticed the pecker that engages the wheel ring was not centered. I removed the cover and saw this. I cannot figure out how this rotating lever centers itself...something has to be missing.
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FlameRed

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Yours like like it is the legit part.

The one I got was a POS, and I imagine it was a China POS. It did not have the same part numbers as yours.

On mine, I gave up. The spring I had was engaged in the two holes, but it was unable to bring the pointer back to the center - ever. I gave up on the POS.

If you look now on alibaba - the Chinese have put on a very good copy of the real military label.

The good ones are $700 to $over $1,000 each :eek: , while the Chinese ones that don't work worth a $hit are $160 to $300 and with the new label that looks ligit, they will be hard to spot for a major rip off.

And the replacement rings that some of vendors seem to sell now are just 3D printed POS that will break on first use.
 
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Coug

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Mine was acting funny, so I ended up removing the pivot piece and have treated it as a non-self cancelling turn signal ever since.
It got really annoying that the lever piece would end up pointing straight into the ring posts, effectively trying to jam the steering wheel from turning back
 

SmartDrug

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Saint Charles, IL
Mine was acting funny, so I ended up removing the pivot piece and have treated it as a non-self cancelling turn signal ever since.
It got really annoying that the lever piece would end up pointing straight into the ring posts, effectively trying to jam the steering wheel from turning back
This is why I disabled mine and run it manually. I'm used to it now, so it's not a factor. Let me tell you, the first time I tried to turn the wheel and the tab bound everything up, my bowels were nearly loosed.
 

mccullek

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Oxford MS
I'd remove the self canceling part and run manual canceling. Put a buzzer or bright light in circuit so you don't leave the blinker on like lots of old geezers.
Mine won't self cancel but works good otherwise. I just thought they were all manual, so didn't even realize it was supposed to self cancel.

I catch myself riding around with mine blinking, so would like to fix it if possible so I don't look like the old geezer I'm becoming. Now I'm wondering if I just need to adjust mine to make itself cancel. Is there something specific to look for if the self-canceling option is not working?
 

osteo16

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If i was as smart as Cammo, Id invent a timer for the turn signal that self cancels after 30 seconds... Hmmmm, thats not a bad idea .. Im sure someone has beat me to it..

P.S. I officially patent this idea, in case anyone wants to profit from my idea without sharing. 😂😂
 

Mogman

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If i was as smart as Cammo, Id invent a timer for the turn signal that self cancels after 30 seconds... Hmmmm, thats not a bad idea .. Im sure someone has beat me to it..

P.S. I officially patent this idea, in case anyone wants to profit from my idea without sharing. 😂😂
I have owned a couple of motorcycles that would auto cancel the turn signals after a certain amount of time, so that's been done.
The trick would be the mechanism that reaches up and returns the lever :ROFLMAO:
 

Gcelevator

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I have owned a couple of motorcycles that would auto cancel the turn signals after a certain amount of time, so that's been done.
The trick would be the mechanism that reaches up and returns the lever :ROFLMAO:
It can be mechanically inside where the lever is spring loaded but does not gets locked in either position, just returns to center and as soon as it makes contact to either side activates a relay that activates a timer. I have never opened one, but i believe it is something that can be done if we get creative.
 

Autonomy_Lost

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Honestly I think that would be annoying if you are sitting at a light and your turn signal turns off because you waited too long.

Keep it manual and simple like everything else on the hmmwv, dont do my thinking for me.
 

FlameRed

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It can be mechanically inside where the lever is spring loaded but does not gets locked in either position, just returns to center and as soon as it makes contact to either side activates a relay that activates a timer. I have never opened one, but i believe it is something that can be done if we get creative.
This would work except if you used the cheap Chinese crap that is available at the bargain price of only $300 or so, the return spring is not strong enough to return the little cam back to the center, and the arm itself is so crappy it is difficult for the cam to move at all. And the rings which are made by 3D printing, break on their first use.

Perhaps they cheap Chinese units could be completely gutted and just used as a momentary switch that would immediately automatically return to neutral after being toggles and hand off the work to a separate module. Thus get rid of the need for the ring. Maybe used a magnetic induction sensor on the shaft somewhere that would trigger the controller to turn it off. And rig a timer to beep if the signal is left on after a period of time. And rig up a switch on it to turn it off.

Beyond my skill set sad to say.

If someone wants a not cheap POS Chinese canceler switch that is not worth a crap to experiment on, I have one that I was going to take to the range for target practice...

Also - beware I see on Alibaba cheap POS Chinese canceler switches now with authentic looking military markings and US manufacturers names on them. So beware. The generic Chinese crap that the overpriced vendors sell don't seem to have any markings indicating any manufacturer.
 
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williamh

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SanDiego Ca.
Mine won't self cancel but works good otherwise. I just thought they were all manual, so didn't even realize it was supposed to self cancel.

I catch myself riding around with mine blinking, so would like to fix it if possible so I don't look like the old geezer I'm becoming. Now I'm wondering if I just need to adjust mine to make itself cancel. Is there something specific to look for if the self-canceling option is not working?
Your gonna make another left at some point. 🤣
 

FlameRed

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I decided to waste some more $ on this topic. I scored a used turn signal switch off a surplus parts humvee so I knew it was genuine.

The problem now is that alibaba is selling cheap chinese crap which now have the markings of US manufactured (real) ones. I am sure the US based part houses will soon gobble up the chinese crap and sell for hundreds of $ each. So beware!

So here is a picture of the first one I tried of the original chinese crap without the US manufacturer markings - these are junk sold for hundreds of $ Don't be fooled and buy one unless you like filling landfills with hundred $ bills.



Here is a picture of an authentic US made one, with the proper markings, at the bargain price of only $795.31 (or more):



And here is the newest batch of the Chinese crap now with identical US markings but fake!



So how can you tell them apart? Here is the guide.

  • Ask for a picture of the unit with the green plastic lens cover pulled off. If there is a elastic "string" that prevents the lens over from being lost, it is genuine. If there is nothing holding the lens cover to the unit, it is the fake chinese crap.
  • With the lever in the middle position, check the tension of the return flapper lever. On the cheap chinese ones, they will not return to the middle position solidly. The USA ones do return back to the center reliably. Hard to check over the internet.
  • With the lever in either engaged position, the arm should have some spring and move slightly further so the pin does not jam and break off.
  • The US units lever will flip up and down very easily. Same for little arm when it needs to move the lever via the pin. The cheap chinese crap is much harder to flip - so they are guaranteed to snap the current 3D printed rings quick!

Now for the rings. The ones being sold seem to be 3d printed, and will break off pieces under normal use! I could not find any authentic ones. So what I did with the current 3D printed one at the bargain price of $30 to $50 each was as follows:

  • I applied JB weld to the gussets on each side of the four gussets that support the pins that move the arm. Be careful to not get any JB on the ends so the shape does not change. The gussets need more material or the pins will snap off fairly quickly.
  • Screw in a small sheet metal screw from the back side up into the center of both pins. Those pins are 3d printed and are hallow and have no strength at all. Just use a small screw. I added some jb weld to try to fill up the hallow pins and then the screw for additional strength.
  • Paint the ring your favorite color. I painted it green to match the steering wheel.
  • I also found a radiator stainless steel screw clamp and painted it to match the ring.
  • Apply this radiator screw clamp around the ring and tighten it nice and tight. If you don't the ring itself is likely to snap if you let the wheel fly back to center after a hard turn. Plus the screws do not seem to have enough material on the steering wheel to hold on reliably.
20210316_144837__98540.png

So far with the above modifications, it seems to be working as intended for me.
 
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