• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Service manual? What are all these teal stickers on every part?

mk2spyder

New member
23
4
3
Location
NC
Just bought a MTVR, where can I find a service manual for it? Also my truck has teal sticker labels on every single connector part etc, like someone made them with a label maker. They say stuff like FIG 180 or FN 80 attaches here.

My truck looks like it has sat inside a training facility since new, am I guessing correct?
 

flyfishtrailer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
517
987
93
Location
Cool, CA
Well....Love to help, but pictures here would be very helpful in answering your questions : ) Be more specific as to what model truck, and if you look across the navigation bar up top and hit the TM (Technical Manuals) section you may find everything you're looking for. But WE still want/need pictures!
 

mk2spyder

New member
23
4
3
Location
NC
I will get some pictures tonight thanks for the tip on the TM location. I am very interested in swapping in a 2-speed transfer case, my truck is a AMK23A1 what ratio is in our existing T-Case is it just 1:1 part time or is it full time or tell me more about it.

I have an air shifted 2-speed case out of a MRAP I think I have to go check it and see if it will work.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,249
18,774
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Just bought a MTVR, where can I find a service manual for it? Also my truck has teal sticker labels on every single connector part etc, like someone made them with a label maker. They say stuff like FIG 180 or FN 80 attaches here.

My truck looks like it has sat inside a training facility since new, am I guessing correct?
.
MTVR as in the MK23?
The 7-Ton USMC Trucks?

If so, the best you can get at the moment is the -10 (Operators) TM.
Even that manual isn't released to the public even though there are plenty of them "in the wild".

Snap a few more pictures of the truck itself.
The label maker blue things definitely aren't standard.
Could very well be something from a training facility...
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,183
113
Location
Georgia
I will get some pictures tonight thanks for the tip on the TM location. I am very interested in swapping in a 2-speed transfer case, my truck is a AMK23A1 what ratio is in our existing T-Case is it just 1:1 part time or is it full time or tell me more about it.

I have an air shifted 2-speed case out of a MRAP I think I have to go check it and see if it will work.
Our tcase is something like a 1.36 underdrive case 24/7. Single speed

A 1:1 t case would net you something like 77mph top speed if i remember correctly. @DeMilitarized ran the calculations at one time i believe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
317
882
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
Our tcase is something like a 1.36 underdrive case 24/7. Single speed

A 1:1 t case would net you something like 77mph top speed if i remember correctly. @DeMilitarized ran the calculations at one time i believe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1.27 or 1.28 is the ratio of the stock MTVR Oshkosh 30000 transfer case.


With the Oshkosh 55000 I was looking at had a .98 or .96 overdrive (in the classifieds). That would bring your "transmission ratio" to .6272 from .82. I was looking at a top speed of 83.83 mph at 2000 rpm. At 1200 rpm you are at 50mph and at 1550 rpm you are back at your cruising speed of 65mph. At 1650rpm you have reached 70mph. So you reduce your cruising speed from 2000 rpm to 1550.

A 1:1 would grant you 82mph at 2000 rpm and a 65mph cruise at 1600 rpm.

Your transmission would likely benefit from a relearn but I only see positives of the swap.
One thing to keep in mind is that not all Oshkosh transfer cases will just swap in. The mentioned Oshkosh 55000 in the classifieds wont work in the MTVR due to the fluid pump mounted on the front of the case wont clear the cab mounts. There is a thread somewhere here talking about which ones should and shouldn't fit.
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
317
882
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
View attachment 893290View attachment 893291View attachment 893292

Is it normal to have teal labels on every single possible thing in the truck?
I have not seen these labels before. My guess is it was a training truck that mechanics used to familiarize themselves with the platform.

As for service manuals they are currently not available to the public. Even if they were they are only accessible via a special software which is only downloadable Via government internet access and login ID. Trying to work on some sort of go-around for all that.
 

mk2spyder

New member
23
4
3
Location
NC
Ok so here is the skinny. I went out fired the truck up and it idles ok but when you rev it up around 1500 it starts missing and smoking. Hence why I got it for only $14k despite it looking brand new (stored indoors, 50 hours 200 miles). It did say engine smokes on the auction. Looked at the air restriction gauge it was normal but the intercooler hoses were collapsing i.e. vacuum when revved up. Took the air filter out the bottom of it had rusted the paper was super brittle. With the air filter out it did the same thing. Took the intake pipe off the intake side of the compressor housing and sure enough some dumb trainee kids left an entire blue paper rag like the kind you buy at AutoZone in the box in the turbo. The compressor blade was clogged shut with it.

Took that out cleaned off the bits of rag from the blades turbo spins fine, took off the charge side pipe from the compressor housing and it was full of oil and rag bits the oil actually helped catch the rag pieces against the side of the pipes. Reached into the intercooler end tank and the core was clogged shut with an oil/rag mix, the oil looks brand new but was a little low on the dip stick. Checked the other side of the intercooler and the core was clean as a whistle inside no oil. The oil is either coming from being sucked out of the o-rings on the turbo center cartridge or it was sucking oil out of the crankcase since it couldn't get any air.

Cleaned it up with my hand, put the pipes back on, fired up ran perfect revs up great zero smoke purs like a kitten. I'll probably still take the intercooler off and have it fully clean it out then figure out where the oil came from but the engine is strong it's definitely not blowby because the oil is only on the turbo side of the engine.

I have some questions. On the CTIS panel what do the buttons on the left with the weight ratings do and what do the buttons on the right side of that panel do? Does the CTIS get air off the engine air pump for the brakes?

When I hit the brakes there is a big pressure drop coming from 2 of the clear hoses zip tied up by the air intake tube that can't be normal. It builds up to 120 but if I hit the brakes I hear air rushing out of those tubes?

How do you get the diag monitor screen where the glove box would be to turn on? Other than fluids what other maintenance should I check? Some of the tie rod / dog bone boots are cracked so I'll have to address that eventually. But the truck moves around fine transmission works good brakes work good minus the air pressure deal.

How can I tell if my CTIS is working? I have it set on highway and the light is blinking, how long does it take to pump up all 6 from sitting for awhile?
 

Attachments

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
317
882
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
Also I procured this I don't see why I can't make it work.

Your going to have to take a hard look as I stated earlier if the metal housing on the top front part of the transfer case will clear the cab mounts/ cab. From forums I have read there may not be enough space for it.

A quick read from which I gained my information.

Answer to your air brake question:
Your gear driven air compressor off of the engine supplies air for the entire vehicle. This is stored in usually 3 tanks: Primary, Secondary, and Wet. Primary and secondary are two isolated air systems for rear and front brakes. So if one were to fail you would still have the other. The air in both of these tanks have been dried by an air dryer. The wet tank is before the air dryer thus named the wet tank. I believe CTIS is run off of this tank or could be the secondary tank. Common problem I have found on LMTVs are that the tractor protection valve for the trailer air brakes goes bad and allows lots of air to go past. Have someone go to the drivers side intermediate axle tire while depressing the brake pedal and listen to see if the air leaking noise is loudest there. It could also be a faulty brake can.
Link to @Elijah95 video on how to fix it:


Answer to CTIS:
Some basics to CTIS. Truck needs to be at 120 psi for the system to start. Then your tank pressure sensor will send a signal to your controller saying it is at pressure. Then Your controller will send a signal to some solenoids in your PCU (pneumatic control unit) which sends a 7-10 psi "check" pressure to your wheel valves. The wheel valves will open and tire pressure will rush into the PCU and the pressure transducer in the PCU will tell the controller what the tire pressures are. The system will then decide either to inflate or deflate depending on the pressure. To deflate it will send a 7-10 psi stream of air to the wheel valves to keep them open which will allow the air from the tires to escape out of the quick release valves above the axles. It will stop after about 60 seconds of this and check the pressure and go from there. To inflate it will send pressure from the wet tank to the tires at about 100 psi or so until the tank pressure drops below a certain point then it will stop and wait for more air pressure to start the process again.

The right side of the ctis controller is your terrain modes. The left side is your load in or on your truck at said terrain mode. The controller takes into account your terrain and load and makes a pressure from there. On the door panel there is a spec sheet of what pressures they are supposed to be at for what modes but I cannot find a picture of it. Set the controller for your desired terrain you will be on then your weight you are carrying.
CTIS should at idle take a while to fully fill your tires up. When the system gets your tires to the proper air pressure it will have a solid terrain and load light rather than flashing.

Linked is the CTIS troubleshooting guide for your reading pleasure:


Answer to TIM:
Linked is @Elijah95 video on the TIM:

Hope this is helpful.
 

mk2spyder

New member
23
4
3
Location
NC
Thanks for the helpful info. I gotta diag my TIM issues so it can diag for me lol. I'm assuming I have a ripped brake chamber but we'll see.

Has anyone tried the 505hp flash on our trucks?
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
317
882
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
Thanks for the helpful info. I gotta diag my TIM issues so it can diag for me lol. I'm assuming I have a ripped brake chamber but we'll see.

Has anyone tried the 505hp flash on our trucks?
Lots of people use the 505 tune and they seem to have good success. Your TIM module on the firewall is probably fried.
 

mk2spyder

New member
23
4
3
Location
NC
Lots of people use the 505 tune and they seem to have good success. Your TIM module on the firewall is probably fried.
Gotta be honest I didn't even know you have to plug the connectors together so I gotta try that first lol Considering the whole truck looks new I'm sure it's fine, mine was stored indoors as a training rig.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks