Shakein shimmy in the front on M 931 A2

[Jericho]

Gents, Ladies.
Have a shake and back and fourth shimmy in the front of my 931 A2 , starts about 40 ish , goes away most of the time by 50 /55 makes the steering feel really "LIGHT" , no doubt likely one of three things?
1, bad wheel bearing , HUM.
2, alignment, UMM ,
3. or unbalanced tire ,short of pressure type thing and cold temp wheel set ( This condition usually goes away after proper inflation and driving enough to "round " the tire back out .)


inflated to 70 psi , still there . If it were a lifted WJ I would look at the tie rod ends

Thinking ill start with the easiest , have iron bar ed the wheel, cant feel any real movement .

Being a rather large wheel balancing is out of the question,

HAS ANY ONE TRIED CLOCKING THE WHEEL TO SHIFT THE BALANCE AROUND THE CIRCUMFRENCE AND POSSIBLY OBTAIN A BETTER BALANCE ? or have any further insight, have been thru the limited trouble shooting in the T.O. Thanks for you kind attention

 

[BenRoberts]

What they do to theses big tires is add balance beads inside. I haven't done it to my truck yet but I've been told it works good

 

[Ultra Mag]

What they do to theses big tires is add balance beads inside. I haven't done it to my truck yet but I've been told it works good

Some guys use antifreeze. 1 quart per tire.

 

[Suprman]

Are both front wheel weights there? Is this a new problem or was it always there? Moisture in the tire can freeze and cause imbalance also.

 

[Jbulach]

If the CTIS is still on your truck you don't want to put antifreeze in the tires, I'm not even sure about using beads.
If everything on your front end seems tight, you might consider rotating the tires to the rear, one at a time, with a test drive in between each, to see if you can tell which one is bad.
Re-clocking the tire on the rim is not a bad idea, but a lot of work though.
The tire is likely out of round from sitting flat and would be a good idea to get rid of it if that is the case.

 

[juanprado]

check front driveshaft ujoints and hanger bearing also if you have one.

 

[Jason O]

There's a good chance your tires are not only out of balance, but out of round as well. The fix there is to remove the high spots by shaving down the tires.

I've posted photos of the process here before, I'll try to find them.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Why ask for trouble? If you even THINK it could be a bearing on the front, pull a spline cap and check! Maybe the nuts loosened up or in fact, its a bad bearing.


Going 70 and not knowing will just get you that Darwin award faster...

 

[Jericho]

Your right gimp. Will check it when it warms up. It's parked in 3 foot of snow Thanks for the motivator. Will figure it out when I get it out of winter storage.

 

[Jericho]

Thank you for the insight fellas, Rest assured Safety is paramount. Truck is parked for winter storage 3 feet of snow, Iam getting ready to pull it from winter park, so anxious to figure it out , ALL GOOD SUGGESTIONS , and tons of knowledge here The trouble shooting at the top was before I parked it , Will list them all and check them off as I go down the list, AND report my findings ( winter here starts in OCT /NOV as a rule , just had a big noreaster and 28 more inches of snow on top of what we had, Hopeing spring comes ( snow gone , no more frost ) by 2nd week in may

 

[Jericho]

Am familiar with the wheel shaving , but it aint out here in the north country , VERY RURAL , every thing is always 3 DAYS OUT OF BOSTON, Shop to do it maybe 3 hours away in Boston Going to check joints tie rod ends, wheel bearings , if no problems rotate tire to rear, Both the fronts were brand new in the fall, might have 100 miles on them

 

[gimpyrobb]

I don't mean to come off as crass, but I had a bearing go bad and the front tire almost fell off. I would hate to see that happen to anyone here on SS(especially at speed).

Its also SO MUCH CHEAPER to grab a set of bearings and keep them with you "just in case". It was HUNDREDS of dollars fixing mine on the side of the road(when it should have been under 100.00).

 

[simp5782]

I had tie rods that were worn out. I have upgraded to Moog tie rod ends and they are a lot stiffer. I am actually working on a crossbreed idler arm (steering box to knuckle). Then again all the potholes in that part of the country the front end is probably shot. I do have a shake when I let go of my steering wheel at most speeds but as soon as I put a hand on it it goes away except at 1800 to 1950rpms in 5th gear on acceleration it gets bad. Wasn't there before so I know its the tires.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1nq9J0tuYw

 

[Jericho]

No hard feeling Gimp , I didn't see it as crass at all, just an educated comment, and that's how I took it, YOUR A OK HERE , Ive GLEANED a lot of knowledge and a few parts from you over the years, I understand where your coming from and your RIGHT / I just didn't mention it was in a snow bank and I was lookin for insight because I have spring fever , WISHFUL Thinking ( by the way, would like to order one of the popcorn trays PRIORITY ) Thanks ANDY

 

[Jericho]

SIMP. where did you find the MOOG numbers love their problem solver line

 

[simp5782]

SIMP. where did you find the MOOG numbers love their problem solver line

Moog Numbers are as follows ES2210L for left and ES2209R for right. They are listed as drag links but they are it. Basic number for R230091 for the left transfers to those.

 

[BenRoberts]

Now when changing tie rods would acceptable alignment be equal distance across the front of the front tires and equal distance across the rear of the front tires. Basically 0 degree tow

 

[Jericho]

Procedure in the T>O> but I use the monofilament fish line from rear to front wheels and a good tape measure method, on you tube, WORKS