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Shear Pins AGAIN?

cbvet

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There has been a LOT of discussion on shear pins. Most of it fairly old.
I need to get some, and I'm wondering if anyone has found any recently, that appear to be the "correct" aluminum pins.
Thanks!
Eric
 

twright

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Tim I might have some for the Duce but I think they are right for the 5 ton I will see what I have and send you a PM
AEC Retired Tony
2 M35A1
3 M35A2
1 M816
1 M561
1 M1031
1 M1008
1 M1009
5 M105A2
and other green things
 

Recovry4x4

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Gene Patano in Colorado Springs had tons of GI surplus pins. I don't know how many he had but it must have been alot. I bought around 50 of them from him. Still have 40 or so that I keep for my junk here. Gene was popular on the old MV mailing list.
 

cbvet

Active member
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I tried contacting Gene through "truks@cs.quik.com", which I found with a Google search.
Came back "user unknown".
Still looking for pins.
Anyone with a source they will share?
Or if you have just a few to sell, PM me please.

I wonder how the shear strength of brass would compare to aluminum. Anybody have that kind of info?

Thanks,
Eric
 

Nonotagain

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Parkville, MD
I tried contacting Gene through "truks@cs.quik.com", which I found with a Google search.
Came back "user unknown".
Still looking for pins.
Anyone with a source they will share?
Or if you have just a few to sell, PM me please.

I wonder how the shear strength of brass would compare to aluminum. Anybody have that kind of info?

Thanks,
Eric
Give me the dimensions of the pins and I'll see what I can find. Also, what type of brass?

All types (hardness and shear strength) of aluminum can be purchased.
 

Irv

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The only real question is what alloy they are made of. Failing that, I can just test a known good mil spec pin. I have a 1000 foot-pound torque wrench and could set up a dummy junction and just test the torque to breakage, get a number, and try pins made from all the common alloys until I find one that shears at about the same value of torque.

Another fast way to test it would be to take a working truck, engage the PTO with the engine off and in low gear. Put the winch in neutral. That means the PTO shaft is locked on the PTO side and free on the winch side. Put a large pipe wrench on the PTO driveline with a very long cheater stick, and load the cheater stick with some known, heavy load, like a sack of concrete or whatever. Move the load out along the cheater stick until there is enough torque to break the shear pin and make note of how far (feet) out the load(pounds) was when it broke, and there you have the foot-pounds of torque, ignoring the relatively small contribution of the wrench and stick, which you could account for, but probably not worth it.

Then try several alloys of aluminum pins until you find one that shears off at about the same torque. There is a risk of damaging the PTO, of course. However, if you plan on using the winch for anything, you are going to stress it anyway. The designers surely specified the pin appropriately for the system. I'd be cautious about the test pin. Make sure it is a genuine US Military issue pin and not something that someone just made and sold to someone as the real McCoy. Irv
 

gringeltaube

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........................................................................................ I'd be cautious about the test pin. Make sure it is a genuine US Military issue pin and not something that someone just made and sold to someone as the real McCoy. Irv
Thanks to Kenny I have the real ones to compare against all other options...;-)

G.
 

Attachments

Carl_in_NH

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Wilton NH
You can also take a real pin to any large scrap dealer that has the electrical tool for identification of aluminum; it 'burns' the sample with a controlled arc, and based on how the sample reacts it ID's the sample against its internal database of known aluminum alloy types. Wish I could remember what that tool was called.

It sure would be nice to know what they are really made of - because raw stock is cheap, and they would take all of two minutes to crank out on a manual lathe - cross drilling included.
 

m16ty

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You can also take a real pin to any large scrap dealer that has the electrical tool for identification of aluminum; it 'burns' the sample with a controlled arc, and based on how the sample reacts it ID's the sample against its internal database of known aluminum alloy types. Wish I could remember what that tool was called.

It sure would be nice to know what they are really made of - because raw stock is cheap, and they would take all of two minutes to crank out on a manual lathe - cross drilling included.
All the info is in the thread mudpuppy linked to.

I've already had the pins tested. It's 2024 AL.
 
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