Shift Indicator... and OEM (NOT dorman) headlight adjusters

[Commander5993]

Hey all, searched on here and found bit and pieces of info, mostly people with actual transmission problems and not so much about the indicator. My shift indicator has been off at least 1 "gear" for sometime now. I tried adjusting the "string" back sometime ago, but the indicator would soon return to its "off" position. I've just clicked through R, N, then into D. But sometimes I'll start driving and question if I'm in 2 instead. Further if someone else drives the truck they're always confused as to what is going on.

In any case, I was thinking about buying a new indicator from LMC, actually I think I may have replaced this once before back about 10 years ago. In either case, LMC have two different one's listed (well 3 actually but I know a CUCV with the original TH400 transmission doesn't have OD). The first one is a # 32-7238 (1979-83) and the other is a # 32-7240 (1984-87). I've got a 1986 M1008 so I would guess it is the second one for the year listed... but I've read in the past that even though this was built in '86, but because it is a military truck it is built to the specs of the '83 and sometimes this affects parts.... and of course these two have to basically be border line, and LMC only shows one photo for both of these. So anyone know which would be correct? Or better yet, any know of a way to fix the indicator to actually show the correct gear?

Also, I finally had some time today to install my new LED headlights that I got from LMC back 6 months ago probably. Went to install the new adjusters and the adjustment plastic "clip" that the screw goes into, would NOT lock into the slot in the metal backer behind the headlight. I broke two of them trying to get them to lock in. As no matter what I did, the two sides of the clip that are supposed to spread open once through the slot, would never pull all the way through without just breaking off. It was as if they were to long to actually pull through the hole. And of course these were dorman... I hate dorman products, used to work at a parts store and they carried dorman for all kinds of stuff like this and in my opinion all of it was garbage. Either it doesn't fit, its not to spec, or it just breaks. I think these are all 3.

Anyway, I've got to order some parking light lenses from LMC anyway, as the mounts on these old one's are broke. Tried to repair them, but it'll only hold so long. Also don't want any NOS stuff, as its just as old and brittle. In any case, since I'm ordering those I was going to order some new adjusters from LMC too. I am HOPING that what they sell are ACTUAL OEM or equivalent and surely not this dorman junk. I doubt the clips were originally plastic were they? I would be betting they were metal.

Don't mean to run on... but where does the "headlight spring" mount to??? The springs on both headlights were just dangling when I took the old lights out. All the part diagrams I've found shows the spring, but doesn't actually show where it goes. The headlight metal "bucket" mount doesn't seem to have any obvious hole or "arm" for the spring to attach to. Even if it did the spring is so short, how do you clip it on before installing the headlight all the way... or how do you get your hand in there from the back to do so after the headlight is installed??

Anyway, guess I won't be driving my truck until I can get new adjusters. That was the whole reason I bought these "replacement" one's to begin with, as I wanted to do the job without having my truck down waiting on parts...... oh well, usually how it goes.

Hope everyone is having a better day, thanks in advance for any input

 

[cucvrus]

Most times the adjusters are not the issue. It is the rusty coarse radiator support and headlamp buckets. The springs fit in the corner of the buckets, I advise against LMC replacement buckets they will not fit.

 

[Commander5993]

Most times the adjusters are not the issue. It is the rusty coarse radiator support and headlamp buckets. The springs fit in the corner of the buckets, I advise against LMC replacement buckets they will not fit.

yeah, I just need some new adjusters and the clips they screw into. I cleaned and repainted the headlight buckets. The rad support is in pretty good shape, still good paint.

 

[Barrman]

I put nuts on my up down adjuster screws because the plastic just couldn’t hold against the spring tension. Haven’t thought about that problem in 11 years now. After that worked on my first truck. I just put them on the rest as a matter of course.

With the shift indicator. Have you pulled the gauge cover to make sure the plastic ”pulley” post is still there and working? They tend to break off or get a groove worn into them. A metal screw works well as a fix.

 

[Skinny]

I believe there is an old 70's style shift indicator which has a different font then the 80's style. 80's style has 3 and 4 speed. They are all essentially the same construction but look and function differently.

I've had two from LMC and they work fine. Probably the rare instance an aftermarket part works great. When you take the original out and look at it the wrong way the needle breaks off.

No one will ever ask what gear they are really in. If the truck only goes 30mph you are in the 2 position

 

[Commander5993]

I put nuts on my up down adjuster screws because the plastic just couldn’t hold against the spring tension. Haven’t thought about that problem in 11 years now. After that worked on my first truck. I just put them on the rest as a matter of course.

With the shift indicator. Have you pulled the gauge cover to make sure the plastic ”pulley” post is still there and working? They tend to break off or get a groove worn into them. A metal screw works well as a fix.

I thought about that, will have to see a way of holding a nut into the rad support while still being able to adjust the screw.

Will have to look at the indicator... now that you mention it I do remember something about a screw, can't remember if its just something I read a long time ago, or that I actually did something to the indicator. Find out when I take it apart again I guess lol

 

[Commander5993]

I believe there is an old 70's style shift indicator which has a different font then the 80's style. 80's style has 3 and 4 speed. They are all essentially the same construction but look and function differently.

I've had two from LMC and they work fine. Probably the rare instance an aftermarket part works great. When you take the original out and look at it the wrong way the needle breaks off.

yeah, they have two different styles for the 3 speeds. but they work/position differently.

No one will ever ask what gear they are really in. If the truck only goes 30mph you are in the 2 position

LoL
I only question it when it seems like the engine keeps revving to high for too long. Does this when driving through the little local town mostly, be doing 25 and sounds like I'm trying to rev like the "kids" trying to blow smoke with their new diesels that needs to be . Have fiddled with the vacuum adjustment several times, makes changes soft and hard shifting, but doesn't seem to help rev less when going slow.

 

[cucvrus]

OK. Getting back to my statement about the friction between the head lamp buckets and the core support. When the trucks were new there was white lithium grease on the core support at the 3 raised contact pads that are designed and formed into the support. The headlamp buckets were smooth and greasy. The friction it creates when adjusting the headlamps was not there. Over the years the grease has dissolved and disappeared. If you brush a little grease on the core support to contact points of the bucket the nylon inserts of the off the shelf headlamp adjusters can do the job they were designed to do. But not with the amount of friction that is present when they are rough and dry. We discussed this here a few times. One of the moderators out of Texas was having the same issue and the clean-up and grease resolved the issue. Good Luck and Happy Holidays. I even cleaned and greased my wall hanger CUCV headlamp buckets and core support. I used 4 new off the shelf generic headlamp adjusters.

 

[Commander5993]

OK. Getting back to my statement about the friction between the head lamp buckets and the core support. When the trucks were new there was white lithium grease on the core support at the 3 raised contact pads that are designed and formed into the support. The headlamp buckets were smooth and greasy. The friction it creates when adjusting the headlamps was not there. Over the years the grease has dissolved and disappeared. If you brush a little grease on the core support to contact points of the bucket the nylon inserts of the off the shelf headlamp adjusters can do the job they were designed to do. But not with the amount of friction that is present when they are rough and dry. We discussed this here a few times. One of the moderators out of Texas was having the same issue and the clean-up and grease resolved the issue. Good Luck and Happy Holidays. I even cleaned and greased my wall hanger CUCV headlamp buckets and core support. I used 4 new off the shelf generic headlamp adjusters. View attachment 852415 View attachment 852415 View attachment 852414

OH OK, I get what you're talking about now. Didn't realize that previously. I'll have to look at these closer, guess I'm glad I didn't get the headlights in already. My problem with the adjusters was the plastic pieces wouldn't hold into the rad support. So the adjustment screw was just flopping around since there it couldn't "push back" against the plastic part as it wouldn't stay in the slot in the rad support. Maybe I just got some bad one's where the plastic parts wasn't made correctly, I don't know. Will get some more and take your suggestion on the contact points.

Nice Wall Decor by the way

 

[Commander5993]

what are the "lens covers" over the oil, 4x4, and gen lights called? LMC doesn't seem to carry them, as they don't show them in any of the diagrams. And I can't even find anything when searching on google. So I'm guessing I'm not using the "right term".
Need some replacements if at all possible as mine are cracking up, not sure if these can be found anymore. If I can't, then I'll just have to see if I can "fix" them from at least falling down or moving.
Going to clean everything else up while I've got the dash apart. Replacing the speedo/fuel gauge bulb with led so I can see them at night. Guess I need to get a new fuel sending unit probably, as my fuel tank is empty when the gauge shows 1/4 tank remaining. The tank is full when the gauge shows "5/4's" of a tank... not good if someone else drives it and I forget to tell them.

 

[Skinny]

Welcome to nearly 40 year old GM electronics.

Word of wisdom, double check that your LED lights up before putting it back together. They are polarity sensitive. I always forget to

 

[Commander5993]

Welcome to nearly 40 year old GM electronics.

Word of wisdom, double check that your LED lights up before putting it back together. They are polarity sensitive. I always forget to

yep, good tip. I forgot about that with led bulbs.
Had this truck for over 10 years now, been a good truck. But wanted to do some small upgrades for night driving. Along with a few other repairs/upgrades.... at least that's how it starts. Already did some work on it this summer, replaced tie rods and etc. Also did a few upgrades too... now I have cup holders

going to forget about the indicator light covers/filters... whatever you want to call them. Found ONE cover, it was a NOS for Gen 1 idiot light... $35!!
For that price I can make some out of some scrap plastic bottles and a sharpie. Will just try to repair these to keep them in position.

I did find out why the shift indicator was off. The metal "clip" that holds the wire onto the steering column cover, the plastic steering cover had cracked and the screw fell out. Which allowed the clip to move around. Just holding it in place by hand to test, it seems it will be correct once I fix that. Anyway, just little things.

 

[Skinny]

Yeah that or the plastic pivot point snaps off. They are pretty frail pieces. Knock on wood the aftermarket ones have held up on both trucks.

Some of the bulbs on the fullsize can come out if you slide your meat hook up under the dash. I just pulled the cluster out of an S10 beater project. You have to drop the column, all the plastic trim under and I. Front of the cluster, then pull is out to access anything. I finally got to it and the bulbs were stuck in the bulb bases. So had to put it all back together so I could drive it and order new ones. I swear I'm either cursed or I do it to myself...

Either way I love the LEDs! The cluster doesn't require squinting to read and the headlights are actually useable. Those old junk sealed beams you'd think the headlights aren't even on and you are driving with the marker lights. All worthy battles and pretty cheap too.

 

[ezgn]

yeah, they have two different styles for the 3 speeds. but they work/position differently.




LoL
I only question it when it seems like the engine keeps revving to high for too long. Does this when driving through the little local town mostly, be doing 25 and sounds like I'm trying to rev like the "kids" trying to blow smoke with their new diesels that needs to be . Have fiddled with the vacuum adjustment several times, makes changes soft and hard shifting, but doesn't seem to help rev less when going slow.

Maybe you need to adjust your timing on the fuel injection pump.

 

[Commander5993]

Maybe you need to adjust your timing on the fuel injection pump.

Are you talking about the solenoid that attaches to the vacuum line going to the transmission?

 

[ezgn]

Are you talking about the solenoid that attaches to the vacuum line going to the transmission?

I am referring to the fuel injection pump that controls your timing, loosen the three nuts on the pump and line up the timing marks on the engine and the pump and it should be close. It sounds like your timing may be to far advanced. Check your timing marks.

 

[Commander5993]

I am referring to the fuel injection pump that controls your timing, loosen the three nuts on the pump and line up the timing marks on the engine and the pump and it should be close. It sounds like your timing may be to far advanced. Check your timing marks.

Ok, I know what you're talking about now. Hadn't thought about that, You might very well be right. I'll have to check it and see. Could the pump timing change over time (no pun intended) for some reason? Wear??

 

[ezgn]

Ok, I know what you're talking about now. Hadn't thought about that, You might very well be right. I'll have to check it and see. Could the pump timing change over time (no pun intended) for some reason? Wear??

The pump timing can need to be changed over time. General wear and tear of the engine internals, timing chain slack, internal parts of the injection pump wear and tear ect..

 

[Commander5993]

The pump timing can need to be changed over time. General wear and tear of the engine internals, timing chain slack, internal parts of the injection pump wear and tear ect..

Ok, that's what I was thinking from your previous reply. Only diesel I've ever had with a mechanical injection pump, never had a thought about needing to time it before. Will have to get my TM out and look it up, but sounds fairly straight forward from what you stated.

 

[ezgn]

Ok, that's what I was thinking from your previous reply. Only diesel I've ever had with a mechanical injection pump, never had a thought about needing to time it before. Will have to get my TM out and look it up, but sounds fairly straight forward from what you stated.

I think most people on here believe the easiest way is adjust and test drive until you get the best performance under all load conditions while road testing. Facing the engine from the front looking down on the injection pump move the mark on the pump to the right of the blocks witness mark to advance the timing. Generally on a well performing pump and engine lining up the witness marks will put you in the right place The thickness of one witness line on the pump to the right of the block line will be all that is necessary in some instances . Trial and err.