Should I keep the 24v system?

[2INSANE]

My 24v winch motor went out and I bought a replacement 12v which motor has more HP and in return making it go from 12,000 pounds to 15,000 pounds. About 30% more power with the new 12v motor.

My 24v starter went out too and I replaced it with a junkyard 12v one.

So currently, there is no components that is 24v except the alternators which is still charging the batteries.

I kinda like having the 12/24v set up because of that extra boost when jump starting someone and also the ability to use the 24v to weld on the trail if needed.

So I guess I kinda just answered my own question…

But I am wondering what you guys think? Should I just finish converting it to 12v to reduce future alternator and starter costs and put the 12v rat nest on the old 24 volt terminals?

Or keep the 24v/12v system for those two reasons mentioned above?

Any other reasons I should keep the 24v?

Has anyone ever welded off of the 24v system? If so, what sticks did you use and how did it perform?

 

[Barrman]

I have not tried welding with the 24 volts. So, no comment on that.

I have 2 M1009 trucks that just start every single time I turn the key. I liked the 12/24 volt set up so much I made my M715 that way when I swapped in a 6.2 10 years ago. It also starts everytime I want it to.

I had a 12 volt 6.2 with the Bomber for a few years. It ate batteries, alternators and didn't like to start below 40°. Then I built the Cowdog Suburban with serpentine belt and 12 volt 6.5. It at an alternator a year, a starter ever 10 months, batteries every 2 years and had trouble starting on summer days sometimes. I do like that serpentine belt though.

The Bomber went away and I converted the Cowdog over to a Delco 244AD alternator off a Duramax truck. Almost a year now and alternator and batteries seem very, very happy. Last fall I installed my 5th "free" replacement O'Reilly's starter and it only worked good a time or two. I bit the bullet and bought a brand new Delco reduction drive starter. Now, it starts like a CUCV in any temperature.

My point is that if you go to 12 volts buy new Delco only starter motor and alternator. But, any V belt alternator will be running near 100% if you have a bunch of accessories like A/C on high fan all the time. I don't think that is your situation so you should be ok. If you do have A/C and are running the winch all the time at idle. Switching over to serpentine (1997-2003 alternator on the passenger side which has the exact same mounts needed for the AD244 alternator) might be in your future. Which means a new water pump, water pump back plate, power steering pulley, balancer pulley and fan. Mission creep at it finest.

 

[nyoffroad]

Just leave it as is, the alternators are only 12 volts each as are the batteries and everything except the glow plugs so why bother?

 

[Keith_J]

Wait..you jump start a 12 volt with 24? I remember using a 12 volt to jump start a 6 volt system but those have no electronics save a radio so if all others are off, you only connect the cables after starter engagement.

Now, welding with a 24 volt battery is possible but crude and you risk blowing out diodes.

I bought a spare 28MT starter and isolated negative 27SI alternator last year. Yet to need them, cheap insurance. I've nearly memorized the wiring diagrams and have multiple copies of the TMs. I don't want to edit those to match so that is why I keep it stock.

The only part I would change would be the glow plug ballast resistor as I once thought it caused cascade GP failure. I had hard starting plus unusually short pre glow (wait to start light). First two on the left were open, replacing all 8 fixed the starting issue. I had replaced the solenoid a few years back, correctly connecting the thin orange wire to the solenoid output. This is the one error in the TMs, the wire senses voltage to GPs and will cause problems if connected to the input.

I had considered using a 120 amp 24 to 12 volt converter for the glow plugs to prevent cascade failure but from experience, this isn't worth the cost. It would only improve start efficiency by about 1%, given the glow plugs draw 100 amps for only 30 seconds. Batteries have about 100 amp hours of capacity. The ballast resistor is roughly equivalent in power consumption as glow plugs.

 

[2INSANE]

I did the resister override years ago, about 8-9 years. It is great and has given me better starts and longer lasting glow plugs.

Jump starting with the 24v has worked well many times over the years. It’s like a quick instant start of whatever I’m jumping. Usually only 5 seconds is needed. It reduces a lot of weight time. For long periods of time, I won’t use the 24v jump start method I’ll use the 12v.

I would love to try and weld with it.

I guess I’ll keep the 24v/12v as you guys recommend. The pros seem to out weight the cons.