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Show me your auxiliary fuse panel

R

ramdough

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All,

Looking at options for wiring auxiliary fuse panel. Where did you mount it? Where did you tap in?

I have a 1999 A1.

Thanks!


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serpico760

serpico760

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ramdough said:
All,

Looking at options for wiring auxiliary fuse panel. Where did you mount it? Where did you tap in?

I have a 1999 A1.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I have one mounted just above the ctis manifold thing near the passenger's feet mounted to the bottom surface of the electrical box dashboard part. That's for my 24 volt supply for certain accessories that I added. I have another one inside screwed down to the floor of that box for the 12 volt items. In the future I'm a rewire and get a bigger better box and mount it's in some better location because it's a pain to take off that passenger foot well cover
 
R

ramdough

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serpico760 said:
I have one mounted just above the ctis manifold thing near the passenger's feet mounted to the bottom surface of the electrical box dashboard part. That's for my 24 volt supply for certain accessories that I added. I have another one inside screwed down to the floor of that box for the 12 volt items. In the future I'm a rewire and get a bigger better box and mount it's in some better location because it's a pain to take off that passenger foot well cover
Click to expand...
That is kind of where I was planning, but I have extra stuff already in there. I connected my (new) duct hose and there is a box already under the electrical box.

Did you put a monster fuse or breaker in between the PDP and your fuse block?


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Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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None mounted yet, but I'm going to run a 12v 4 AWG run to a six fuse buss up to the overhead console tapped into the 12v ignition source in the breaker panel (for radios).

I'm also doing a 12v 2 AWG run from the PPD down and back up to the rear of the cab (to power the stereo amps and it's vent fans).

Finally I'm running a 24v 1/0 from the PPD down and back up to the rear of the cab to it's own bus (for the 24v cab a/c and cab vent fans)
 
hike

hike

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Third From Texas said:
None mounted yet, but I'm going to run a 12v 4 AWG run to a six fuse buss up to the overhead console tapped into the 12v ignition source in the breaker panel (for radios).

I'm also doing a 12v 2 AWG run from the PPD down and back up to the rear of the cab (to power the stereo amps and it's vent fans).

Finally I'm running a 24v 1/0 from the PPD down and back up to the rear of the cab to it's own bus (for the 24v cab a/c and cab vent fans)
Click to expand...
So, you also ran a 12v ignition fed to the driver's side?

Third From Texas said:
Yep.

I tapped 12v at the PDC, ran a wire (in a plastic loom) thru the forward most body panel Then I added a 6-gang fuse block screwed onto the firewall on the driver side behind the kick panel. Handy for future additions, but the main goal was to fuse protect the Bluefire.


View attachment 910854
Click to expand...
 
hike

hike

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I am thinking about running two split bar boxes: (12v battery and ignition; and 24v battery and ignition) to the back wall.

IMG_3054.jpeg

Other than diagnostics like a Bluefire and a couple of charging ports (which I plan to relocate off the existing 12v battery plug in the passenger footwell) I don't have many additions to the dash area—
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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hike said:
So, you also ran a 12v ignition fed to the driver's side?
Click to expand...
I was going to but no, I wanted to keep it hot w/o the ignition. I've always preferred my accessories be available w/o the ignition "on". I also rely religiously on my battery disconnect switching the cab. If I want power to anything, it's on. The fuse block on the driver side is hot as long as the battery disconnect is on.

The Bluefire itself won't fully power up and start it's radio until the ignition is activates and the ECU signals are present. So when the ignition is shut off, the devices shuts down no matter how it's supplied.
 
High Water

High Water

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I have measured the 12v tap on the my PDP and it deviates +/- 2v. I'll be powering some electronics that care about that voltage deviation so to get a nice clean and constant 12.5v I am planning on installing a DC to DC converter (conditioner) and then power a fuse block like Blue Sea or Blue Fire for distribution. Of course this method would be always on and not tied to the ignition so a master switch may be needed to shut down everything without turning each device off individually.

rronmar showed installing a DC to DC converter in one of his video although his purpose was a little different.

I'll be watching this thread to read all the different ideas. I am still in the planning stage.
 
Wreckclues

Wreckclues

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Mounted a 12 Way 12 Volt blade fuse block under the map box support, tapped a 24 to 12 VDC step down converter regulator, which draws from a 24 volt dual battery bank switch.
 
R

ramdough

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Wreckclues said:
Mounted a 12 Way 12 Volt blade fuse block under the map box support, tapped a 24 to 12 VDC step down converter regulator, which draws from a 24 volt dual battery bank switch.
Click to expand...
Any pics? I can’t envision what a map box support is.


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