Siezed engine removal.

[ken]

I'm finally pulling the locked up 6.2 and replacing it with a 6.5. Does anyone know if I will have enough clearance between the engine and front cross member with the torque converter still attached the get the engine out? With the engine locked up, I can't rotate it to unbolt the torque converter. I'm hoping to not have to move the tranny and t-case. I'm removing the drivers side exhaust because it looks like it will hit before I get forward enough. I'm assuming the starter will have to come off too? I removed the crank pulley hoping to give me a few more inches of clearance. Any advice will help before I get to the point of no return. Thanks,

 

[Dock Rocker]

If you pull the stack you shouldn’t have any problem.


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[Action]

Leave the starter on.

 

[ken]

The stack came out first. I was thinking the torque converter might not clear the input shaft on the tranny before the crank gets to the front crossmember.

 

[Dock Rocker]

The stack came out first. I was thinking the torque converter might not clear the input shaft on the tranny before the crank gets to the front crossmember.

You may have to take the rear shaft loose so you can tilt the transmission up in the front but it should come on out.


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[BLK HMMWV]

I pulled out the entire power pack in one piece engine trans and transfer case using the military lifter.
Why do you want to just replace the engine and not the trans?
Your not going to reap any benefit of the 6.5 without adding over drive. and then why not have a park position as well.
If your going that far go all the way.

 

[ken]

I pulled out the entire power pack in one piece engine trans and transfer case using the military lifter.
Why do you want to just replace the engine and not the trans?
Your not going to reap any benefit of the 6.5 without adding over drive. and then why not have a park position as well.

In my case spending the money to swap to a 4L80E isn't worth the cost. This truck will spend most of it's time off road and when on road 99% of the time will be back roads/dirt roads and below 45MPH usually 30 to 35 MPH. I can see other guys wanting a 4 speed for the need to run highway speeds. But in my case, I just don't have a need to run that fast.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

To each his own. Having a park position is also a plus . That and if you ever had to sell it, it will be more desirable with a 4 speed.
Carry on. Enjoy your project.

 

[simp5782]

There is a 700R4 kit now as well i believe. Alot cheaper.

It will clear the front with the torque converter still attached.

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[tage]

post a picture of where you're having your hang up

 

[gimpyrobb]

post a picture of where you're having your hang up

I believe he is just pulling parts prior to the power pack right now. Never hurts to have inside info before diggin in

 

[Skrilex]

I’m in the same spot. Gutted it and waiting for the right donor to come into my life lol. My forklift was almost not able to reach far enough from the front bumper to pull engine! It’s a long way back there.

 

[tage]

hmm that's one way to do it.

One of the vendors here sells take outs ( i think they're around 2,400). I even think retired war horse has some 6.2's???

If you're looking to go on the cheap, throw in a used 6.2. Have some money to spare; buy a GEP 6.5. Your use I wouldn't worry about the 6.5 turbo.

 

[ken]

I believe he is just pulling parts prior to the power pack right now. Never hurts to have inside info before diggin in

Gimpy's right, I'm still pulling parts. I'm hoping to get it in the air some time tomorrow. I was just wondering it someone has been in my situation, by having to pull one with the torque converter still attached. I measured my new TC length and the gap between the harmonic balancer and the front cross member. It's going to be close. I was hoping to not have to move the tranny back. Since I will have to continue forward for a longer distance before I can start rasing up.

 

[frank8003]

In clip 6, 7,+8 one can see the balance of it. Don't use that kind of balance weight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnJqnOZMsiE

 

[simp5782]

If you have a decent electric impact you can have the engine out in around 3 hours. Locked up or not. Be ready for the mess though when you pull the TC. Lots of pig mats.

It can come out with the TC attached. Use your bottle jack under the trans to tilt it up anyway to make extraction easier.

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[Action]

At least loosen the transmission mount bolts, so it can move easier. You may need to lift the front of the trans up slightly. Depending on which bolts you remove to disconnect the engine mounts, the motor will have to go up an inch before it will come forward.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I drop motors in and out monthly...power packs complete with motor, transmission and Tcase...NA and turbo by myself no issues. Easier out then in...just remember, going in...the motor is at an angle, so you can't go straight in.
its actually a bit easier with the entire pack assembled as supposed to just the motor...

 

[Dock Rocker]

Easier out then in...

Quoted for truth!


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[ken]

Just in case some one searches this in the future, If the engine is locked up, Pull the crank pulley and the harmonic balancer. The torque converter should then clear the input shaft on the tranny. Before the engine hits the cross member. This is for a 3 speed.